UB BARFS 



Fifth Edition 



1893 



EXPLANATION. 



THE demand for a guide-book to a comparatively small, wild 
region is necessarily limited, and its sales are unremunera- 
tive. People are apt to be contented if they have but a map of 
the region. In the present case the author would point to the fact 
that this guide-book tries to offset the errors that must exist in a 
map mac ' jad one 

astray, b . : errors 

slight aj 



re-survc) 
without 
material! 
book ar( 
book, nc 
and crr( 
carefully 
useful. 
far, at 
revising 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



UNITED STATES OF AMERK A. 



detailed 
:ie map 
>uld not 
[ap and 
3 guide- 
re 1879, 
;o time, 
'Mc and 
light, as 
ense of 
•f print- 
ing and binding the l)ook, has been quite large, and has not been 
offset, as often heretofore, by adi'ertisements. The public will 
hardly expect a fifth edition of a book to be printed "just for 
the fun of the thing." Hence, without an apology for so doing, 
the publisher has felt obliged to raise the price of the present 
issue (in paper, 'vlthout map) to one dollar a copy. 



Bangor and Aroostook Railroad, 

(PISCATAQUIS DIVISION). 

# 

J\)e /r\oo5et7ead lal^e I^oute, 

The most direct route to Katahdin Iron Works, Sebec 
Lake, Lake Hebron, Monson, and 

floosehead Lake, 

Maine's great summer resort for sportsmen and tourists. 

TWO EXPRESS TRAINS EACH WAY DAILY. 

Connecting at Oidtown with all trains to and from Bangor, 
Portland, and Boston, and at Greenville and Brownville Junctions 
with the Canadian Pacific Railway, for all points west. 

Commer-^'-^.g with the Summer Schedule, June 26, passen- 
gers can leave Boston in the morning and arrive at Kineo for 
supper; returning, leave Kineo in the morning and arrive at 
Boston in the evening. 

EXCURSION TICKETS 

Are on sale at all principal ticket offices in New England 
and New York City. 

F. W. CRAM, General Manager. 



NEW POCKET MAP 



MOOSE HEAD LAKE 



AND VICINITY, 

Embracinj; the Headwaters of the Kennebec, Penobscot, and 
St. John Rivers, and giving routes for the tourist and himber-nian 
through the great forests, and over the intricate water-courses of 

NORTHERN MAINE. 

It contains the latest geographical corrections of this great expanse of 
wild country, and will be found serviceable by all who contemplate a visit 
to these secluded localities. 

COMPILED AND PUBLISHED BY 

LUCIUS L. HUBBARD, CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 



Printed on heavy bond-paper, and encased in durable envelope to fit the 
pocket. Price, 50 cents. 



Will be sent by mail, post-paid, on receipt of price, 
by 

DAMRELL & UPHAM, BOSTON, MASS. 
D. BUGBEE & CO., BANGOR, ME. 



MAP OF 

Northern Maine, 



(Now in Preparation.) 



To embrace the entire northern part of the State, 
now covered by Hubbard's '' [Map of cMoosehead 
LaJie and Northern [Maine," together with the whole 
of Aroostook County and a part of Washington 
County. 

// will show those eastern parts of the State ac- 
cessible to the tourist from the 

Maine Central Railroad, 

as well as the regions newly opened up by the 
Bangor and Aroostook Railway. 

LUCIUS L HUBBARD. 

Will be on sale by P. B ugbee & Co., Bangor, Me., and Damrell 
AND Upham, Boston, Ma ss. 

Price, $1.00. Ready about January 1, 1894. 



A.M 

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M'J'. KINKO l-KOM KIN KG COVE. 



HUBBARD'S GUIDE 



TO 



MOOSEHEAD LAKE 



NORTHERN MAINE. 

BEING THE FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED, 
OF 

"Summer Facations at IHoaseljcaO ilafte anU Hicinits/* 

DESCRIBING ROUTES FOR THE CANOE-MAN OVER THE PRINCI- 
PAL WATERS OF NORTHERN MAINE, WITH HINTS TO 
CAMPERS AND ESTIMATES OF EXPENSE 
FOR TOURS. 

ILLUSTRATED 

WITH VIEWS OF MAINE SCENERY, AND ACCOMPANIED BY NEJf 
AND LARGE MAPS OF THE HEADWATERS OF THE 
PENOBSCOT, KENNEBEC, AROOSTOOK,^ 
ST. yOHN RIVERS, 

By LUCIUS U-^UBBA 

AUTHOR OF "woods AND LAKES OF MAINE." 

Hi') 

CAMBRIDGE : 
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 

1893. 




1 89 3 



Copyright, 1893, 
By Lucius L. Hubbard. 



University Press: 
John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. 



^ 

T 



.l^tunbs anb Companions 



WHO HAVE SHARED WITH HIM THE PLEASURES OF CAMPING OUT 
IN THE WOODS OF MAINE, 

THE AUTHOR 
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATES THIS LITTLE VOLUME, 

IN THE EARNEST HOPE THAT, EVEN IF IT SHOULD CONTAIN 

NOTHING NEW TO THEM, IT WILL AT LEAST SERVE 

TO RECALL BRIGHT MEMORIES OF DAYS 

THAT ARE PAST. 



INTRODUCTION. 



To the care-worn business man and overworked stu- 
dent, no relaxation from the constant wear of their 
respective callings is so grateful as that which comes 
while camping in the woods. " The accompaniments 
of life are removed, and selfishness, ambition, and care 
have here no place ; a man is most truly thrown upon 
his own resources. To be alone with nature, without 
book, without work, without care, without the slightest 
hindrance to wandering at your own sweet will, with a 
heart which beats * true to the kindred points of heaven 
and home,' and to be for this purpose in the very heart 
of the Moosehead forests, is more than all the trout- 
fishing, and almost the rival of the matchless views 
which meet the eye."* In the wild woods hfe is 
regenerated, and even after two weeks of camping out 
and canoeing one issues forth with renewed strength 
for the work of the coming year. Rest and recreation 
are an absolute necessity. A celebrated jurist of this 
country, no longer living, used to say he could do a 
year's work in ten months, but not in twelve. 

* Rev. Julius H. Ward, in Harper's Magazine, August, 1875. 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

It then becomes a practical question, how deep into 
the forests must one penetrate with his birch-canoe to 
find this seclusion and relaxation, and what are the 
means of attaining them ? 

The advantage to canoe-men of having some definite 
and tangible information concerning the different lakes 
and water-courses over which their routes may take 
them, is too well known by those persons who have 
camped out in the woods of Maine to need proof. It 
often happens that the tourist comes to a part of a 
stream where the difficulty of further progress seems 
insurmountable. After successful efforts made to over- 
come the obstacles which first appeared, others take 
their place, and the chain seems unending. The luck- 
less canoe-man in ignorance turns back disappointed, 
and seeks an easier route elsewhere, when, if he had 
but known it, smooth water and a picturesque and 
attractive course lay before him, within easy reach. 

With a knowledge of this need, gained by experience, 
the writer has prepared the following pages for the 
benefit of habitues of Moosehead Lake, and of others 
who may have in view a visit to some of the wilder 
localities in its vicinity. The brevity necessarily re- 
quired in a pocket guide-book has caused him to set 
forth facts without any attempt at embellishment, — 
plain, statistical facts, whose only function is to be use- 
ful. The book, aside from its illustrations, is not meant 
to be entertaining, and they who seek in its pages any 
elaborate or detailed descriptions of scenery will be 
disappointed. 



INTRODUCTION. vii 

That part of the work devoted to camping is also 
merely an epitome. Many topics touched upon had 
to be passed over briefly, and left perhaps incomplete, 
while others of scarcely less importance had to be 
omitted altogether. The information and advice actu- 
ally given is, moreover, very much condensed, and, 
such as it is, the Avriter offers it to beginners in the 
art of camping, as a stepping-stone to a more extended 
knowledge, which can best be obtained by experience. 

He who goes into the woods to camp for the first 
time will be at a loss to understand many of the 
phrases in vogue among older campers and guides, 
some few of which, on account of their brevity, have 
been used in the following pages. The word " pitch " 
refers either to the resinous mixture used on canoes, to 
a small water- fall, or to the height of a stream. After 
a hard rain one may say, " There is a good pitch of 
water." " Rips " is a word used of a stretch of water, 
which is not long enough nor rough enough to be 
called " rapids." To " drop " a canoe over a " pitch " 
is to let it float over it, the canoe-man guiding it from 
the shore with a setting-pole, and with the "painter," 
or leading-rope. 

A "landing" is a term used by lumbermen to de- 
note a place cleared of bushes and trees on the bank 
of a stream or pond, to which the logs cut in winter 
are hauled, in anticipation of the spring floods. 

" Logon," probably a derivative of " lagoon," means 
a very shallow arm of a stream or pond, where Ulies 
and grass grow profusely. 



viii INTRODUCTION. 

The term "navigation" as used in the following 
pages refers to canoes, and readers will also note the 
difference between the right and left banks of a stream, 
and the same terms without the word " bank." 

In presenting to the public this new edition of his 
" Guide to Moosehead Lake and Northern Maine," 
the author owes a word of explanation for the many 
changes that have been made in the text. Portions 
of the information contained in former editions were 
gathered from third parties, who, in the main correct, 
nevertheless made no pretensions to exactness in their 
estimates of distances. In cases where, by subsequent 
personal examination of the ground, the author has 
found discrepancies, he has aimed to correct them, 
and now feels that the descriptions of the different 
canoe trips can be relied upon as fairly accurate. 
Some new matter has been added, chiefly in the form 
of an appendix, while many corrections have been 
made to the map. 

In view of the improvement of both book and map, 
the author hopes that they may meet with the same 
kind reception accorded previous editions, and that 
he may be encouraged, in future editions, to lay before 
the pubHc additional facts concerning a region that is 
yearly growing in favor with tourists, sportsmen, and 
health-seekers generally. 

Cambridge, 1893. 



CONTENTS, 



PART FIRST. 

?i?oto to Camp ©ut. 

PAGB 

Time of Year i 

Number in a Party 2 

A Camper's Outfit, — Where and How to Get it . . 3 

Camp "Kit" 4 

Personal Luggage 7 

Provisions 14 

Canoes and their Usage 16 

Guides 19 

Camp-Ground 22 

Camp-Fire 24 

Cooking 25 

Dressing Game 28 

Hygienic Notes 29 



PART SECOND. 

fHooscTjcatJ ILaite antj Emmetiiate Vicinity, 

Routes from Boston to Moosehead Lake ... 39 

Moosehead Lake 44 

Mount Kineo 51 



xii CONTENTS. 

Cours btgontJ fHoosdjcatJ ilafee. 

PAGE 

West Branch of the Penobscot, — Going Down". . 64 

Jo Merry and Neighboring Lakes 80 

Northwest Carry and Seeboomook Falls .... 81 

West Branch of the Penobscot, — Going Up . . 83 

St. John Pond and Baker Lake 95 

Caucomgomoc Lake, — Allagash Lake .... 97 

Down the St. John River 105, 121 

Down the Aroostook River no 

Spider Lake to Musquacook 114 

Temiscouata Lake 131 

East Branch of the Penobscot 134 

Katahdin Iron- Works 145 

Sebec Lake 157 

Monson 162 

Mount Ktaadn from the East 167 

Forks of the Kennebec and Dead River .... 171 

Moose River above Moose River Villajie .... 180 



Game and Fish of Northern Maine 183 

Digest of (}ame and Fish Laws 186 

Camp-Fircs 191 

Tables of Tours for Campers 193 

Expense of Tours 197 

Index 199 



SUMMER VACATIONS 

AT 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



PART FIRST. 
HOW TO CAMP OUT. 



TIME OF YEAR. 

All seasons have their respective advantages for the 
hunter or trapper, whether sportsman or not, according 
to the object he has in view. Each has its own disad- 
vantages as well, but for general purposes of camping- 
out September and October offer the most attractions 
and have the fewest drawbacks. Black-flies and mosqui- 
toes have then ceased their torments, the weather is apt 
to be settled and pleasant, the nights cool, and game is 
in its prime, and likely to be found everywhere. 

The best fishing is undoubtedly to be had — at least 
in places of most frequent resort — in early spring, just 
after the ice breaks up in the lakes and streams. The 
larger game frequents the feeding-grounds on the banks 
of streams, and shores of ponds, and comes down to the 
water at night, in the hot weather of midsummer. But 
these are the halcyon days of the black-fly and mosquito, 
I 



1 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

the one a con3tant attendant by day, and the other by 
night, both combining to make life miserable for the 
reckless sportsman. Besides, the days are sweltering 
and the nights oppressive. 

Midwinter is not without its attraction, — principally 
that of novelty for him who ventures into the woods too 
far north. He is soon disabused of the fascination 
which drew him thither, and learns that it is much more 
comfortable to put up at some hotel or cabin at the 
outskirts of civilization, and to make hunting excur- 
sions on snow-shoes from these, and to fish through the 
ice under cover of a warm little fish-house, than to 
camp under a shelter tent with the snow four feet deep 
around him, and the mercury at twenty-five below zero. 

NUMBER IN A PARTY. 

The number of persons of which a party should con- 
sist will depend more or less on the characteristics of 
the mdividuals and the object in view. Travelling — ■ 
especially in the woods — is apt to show up the least 
amiable side of one's disposition, and the larger the 
l^arty, the more difficult will it be to have united coun- 
sels and action. If you are bent on having a jolly time, 
and are not particular about getting game and fish, nor 
where you go, you can well join a large party ; but 
when you go mainly for the enjoyments of hunting and 
fishing such as can only be had in the wild woods, go 
with one friend, — a tried friend, on whose good sense 
and unselfishness you can rely. The next best way, 
and you may prefer it, is to go alone, with a trusty and 
competent guide. Two men, each with a canoe and 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 3 

guide, Is an advantageous combination, for the pairs 
can separate for a time, if advisable, and occupy differ- 
ent grounds near together. For a short trip two men 
and one guide can go in one canoe, but for a trip of 
two weeks or more a canoe will only hold two men and 
luggage, and will have an ample load at that. 



A CAMPER'S OUTFIT, — WHERE AND HOW 
TO GET IT. 

As Mr. Gould has happily suggested in his interest- 
ing book, " How to Camp Out," you should begin to 
make preparations for your trip two or three months 
before you intend to start. To make small purchases 
of useful articles to be taken with you, and to dwell in 
anticipation on what is before you, affords almost as 
much pleasure as the later enjoyment of the woods. 
There is great satisfaction in picturing to yourself what 
part this and that article will play in your adventures, or 
in what sort of a place, whether lake or brook, moun- 
tain or meadow, it will first be called into requisition. 
Then, too, if you put off all preparation until the last 
moment, you may forget some of the most important 
parts of your outfit, — a sifie qua non, — and the thought 
of what " might have been " will be quite aggravating. 
Collect your outfit, piece by piece ; appropriate a closet 
or a trunk to its exclusive use, and put the parts of 
your collection into it, day by day, keeping a list from 
which to check off each item as soon as obtained. 
Every time an article suggests itself to you as one that 
is likely to be indispensable, get it. Only be careful 
to make your load as hght as possible. Remember 



4 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

tliat what one may consider a necessity at home may 
be regarded as a luxury in the woods, and that to carry 
one pound of extra weight fifty miles is equivalent to 
carrying fifty pounds one mile. 

Get everything you need, in the way of personal lug- 
gage, at home. You seldom have time or inclination 
to stop over, by the way, and are not at all sure to find 
what you want at the last village on the verge of the 
forest. By " personal luggage " the writer means every 
thing exclusive of food, and of the camp " kit," a term 
explained below. 

It is very convenient, if you mean to use canned 
goods in the woods, to have them packed at home, in 
a box with rope handles on each end of it, and to take 
them with you as luggage. 

CAMP " KIT." 

Parties who go into camp with guides do not usually 
have to provide what is termed the " kit." This in- 
cludes, besides canoe and tent, axes, cooking utensils, 
and the like, — articles which nearly all guides own in 
quantities sufficient for parties of two or three. 

For persons who may be about to go into camp 
without guides, the following list of articles will be 
found useful, if not indispensable : — 

Party of Two. Party of Four. 

Axe, one ; 3]lbs two. 

Baker, small medium. 

Breadpan ; 2 qts 3 qts. 

Can-opener 

Coffee-pot ; I qt 2 qts. 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 5 

Forks, three five. 

Firkins, or bags, for provisions .... 

Frying-pans, two, medium two, large. 

Kettle, iron ; 2 qts 3 qts. 

Knives, three five. 

Molasses-can ; i gal 

Mop for dishes 

Pepper-shaker 

Potato bag 

Rope for canoe, — " Painter " 

Salt-shaker 

Sponge for canoe two. 

Spoon, one, large 

Teaspoons, three six. 

Tent (A) 7ft. X 8ft 

Tin dippers, four six. 

Tin pails ; two, 2 qts. three, 3 qts. 

Tin plates, four six. 

White lead, for stopping leaks in canoe. 

For parties of more than four persons, the capacity 
of the pails, pots, and pans will have to be proportion- 
ally larger, and the number of the more necessary table- 
dishes increased, so that there will be two or three extra 
of each kind. 

The cost of an outfit for two, such as is given above, 
will be about fifteen dollars, exclusive of tent, which may 
be bought for about five dollars. 

Of course, persons can get along with fewer things 
than those above enumerated. The hunter often goes 
into the woods, in midwinter, and his outfit consists of 
a thin blanket, an axe, rifle, sheath-knife, frying-pan, 
and large tin dipper. With these, a bag of flour, a 
piece of pork, and what he shoots, he sustains himself, 
and makes no complaint. In like manner, a camper's 
" kit " can be crude, or elaborate, to suit his whims or 



6 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

his pocket ; and he can direct his outlay in such a man- 
ner as to undergo a greater or less degree of " roughing 
it," — and to his entire satisfaction. 

For the benefit of parties who go to Moosehead Lake, 
it may be well to say that all of the above articles can 
be bought at- Greenville, except bags for provisions, 
which will have to be brought from home. These should 
be strong, made of stout drilling, and of various sizes, 
according to the bulk of the articles meant to be car- 
ried in them. Moreover, a large canvas bag, or rubber 
navy bag, should make part of the kit, to hold the 
smaller bags, and keep their contents dry. 

It has been, and still is, quite common to carry pro- 
visions into the woods in wooden buckets or firkins. 
They answer very well for trips where little or no carry- 
ing is to be done, but are very much of a nuisance 
when the contrary is the case. The principal advan- 
tage in having bags is, that, as fast as your food is con- 
sumed, the bulk of your luggage decreases, which with 
buckets is not appreciable. Ofie bucket, for dishes, 
salt and pepper shakers, can-opener, condensed milk, 
and other odds and ends, will more than compensate, 
in convenience, the trouble of carrying it. Axes and 
hatchets should be provided with some sort of cover. 
They are then less troublesome and harmful, and can 
be thrown into a canoe or on shore without danger, 
either of cutting something else, or of being themselves 
nicked or dulled. They can also be carried safely in 
one's belt, over carries and through the woods. 

One or two kettle-holders will prove extremely use- 
ful, and easy to carry ; a small whetstone and a crooked 
knife, too, may well be added to the kit. 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 7 

An iron bean-pot will be found a great luxury, if it 
does not have to be " carried " much. Otherwise take 
canned beans, or cook your beans in a pail. 

A farina boiler, which consists of two pails, the smaller 
set in the other, serves well to cook oat-meal and mush, 
without risk of burning, — either the food or the cook. 

A shelter tent is warmer than an A tent, if a fire is 
kept blazing before it all night, but it is otherwise less 
convenient, especially in stormy weather. 



PERSONAL LUGGAGE. 

The writer first began to camp out in the year 1869. 
His preparations for his initial trip to the woods were 
crude. As beginners, we do not feel the need of many 
things, which want of experience, perhaps as much as 
lack of means, prevents us from getting ; but after a 
series of summers spent in the woods, we learn how we 
can, in many ways, add materially to our enjoyment 
and comfort, at trifling expense, and with only a slight 
addition to the weight of our luggage. 

Following is a list of articles tlije writer deems essen- 
tial to a tolerable degree of comfort and ease, while out 
for a two weeks' canoeing excursion : — 

One pair stout shoes, well greased. 

One pair stout slippers. 

One suit, — old, but stout clothes. 

One extra pair pantaloons (Scotch goods). 

Two woollen shirts with collars. 

One change of under-clothes. 

Slouch felt hat (gray). 

Two or three pairs heavy woollen socks. 

Two silk handkerchiefs 



8 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

A cardigan jacket (gray), or "sweater." 

A light rubber coat. 

Two rubber blankets, — for each person. 

One pair heavy woollen blankets, — for each person. 

A blanket strap. 

Two carrying straps, or knapsack bags. 

Court and sticking plaster. 

Small flask of brandy. 

Bottle Jamaica ginger. 

Box of grease for boots. 

Bottle of mosquito mixture. 

Piece of soap in small tin-box. 

Sponge, tooth-brush, comb, and two towels. 

Camp candlestick and candles. 

Two or three haversacks, or a knapsack. 

Mosquito net for the head. 

A knit cap for sleeping. 

Pieces of rope and twine. 

Rags, and a small bottle of gun-oil. 

Needles, thread, beeswax, and a small awl. 

Compass, matches. 

Broad belt, with strap for attaching tin cup. 

Good sheath-knife. 

Cartridge-box (old army cap-box). 

Magazine rifle, and from 50 to 100 cartridges. 

Cheap fly-rofl, four leaders, and a dozen flies. 

Six stout hooks. 

Reel, and fifty yards oiled-silk line. 

Pack of cards — for rainy days. 

Pocket-map of region to be visited. 

COMMENTS ON THE FOREGOING. 

Do not wear boots into the woods. They are cum- 
bersome, and sure to get wet, and when in that condi- 
tion are very hard to get off and on. A pair of loose- 
fitting brogans, such as can be bought for about two 
dollars, or an old pair of Waukenphast's shoes, if yoq 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 9 

have them, will be found most comfortable. Shoes should 
fit snugly, without pinching. If your feet are going to 
be out of order for want of proper covering, you would 
better go back home at once. A piece of leather may 
prove of service in your " kit." The writer has of late 
years found rubber boots, which come up half-way 
between knee and hip, almost indispensable where 
wading is necessary. However, a pair of stout shoes, 
well greased, will answer the purpose, and when you 
return to camp with wet feet, the comfort of dry socks 
and slippers will be exceedingly grateful. If you take 
rubber boots, a change of pantaloons will not be neces- 
sary. 

An excellent substitute for heavy shoes and slippers 
will be found in moccasons, which when new are water- 
proof, and fit the foot easily. They are good either in 
a canoe, or when on the walk ; an extra sole on the 
inside helps to protect the foot from roots and stones. 
In this connection, when you dry your shoes or moc- 
casons, be careful not to expose them to too great heat. 
Greased leather, or the fatty hide of any animal, will, 
when exposed to the sun, or to a hot fire, burn very 
quickly, and before one would suspect it. It is a seri- 
ous thing to lose one's foot-covering in the woods. 

A heavy coat, or overcoat, will be found to be an 
incumbrance from its weight, and inconvenient when 
paddling. A good cardigan jacket and a thick vest 
will be all the extra clothing needed for cold days in 
September. The suit one wears should be such as one 
does not expect to use again. Scotch goods are pref- 
erable, as they dry easily after a wetting. Their color 
should be dark gray, if possible, to resemble that of the 



lO MOOSEFIEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

trunks of the trees. The wearer will thus be less likely 
to attract the notice of game that may come in his 
way. 

A pair of suspenders is a comfort one should not be 
without. It does not matter if they do not look well 
over your woollen shirt. 

A light rubber coat in the woods is invaluable, and 
two or three extra rubber blankets are apt to be quite 
serviceable, in more ways than one. Should a shower 
overtake you en route^ one of them thrown over your 
canoe-load protects it thoroughly. In camp two of 
them stretched overhead on either side of a horizontal 
pole make a good shelter both for your table and lug- 
gage, and they also make a warm covering to sleep 
under, on cold nights. 

A good substitute for tent, and rubber blankets too, 
consists in pieces of cotton cloth, 7ft. X 4ft., soaked in 
boiled linseed-oil. If made with eyelet-holes in the 
margin, they will answer the purpose of a tent, four of 
them being laced together in pairs, two side to side, 
and these pairs end to end. The two ends thus laced 
together are laid on the ridge-pole of the tent, and tri- 
angular pieces buttoned on at each end complete the 
dwelling. 

One pair of stout uncut woollen blankets for each 
person is none too many. For cold nights in September 
more warmth and comfort can be had by having your 
blankets doubled over and sewed up on one ejid, and 
three quarters up the side, like a bag, so that when in it 
you have two thicknesses of blanket over and under you, 
and your feet cannot become uncovered during sleep. 
The top of the blanket can, if necessary, be drawn up 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. II 

over the head, while that part of the side left unsewed 
will furnish a good breathing-place. 

Leather carrying-straps consist of a centre piece 
about a foot long and two inches wide, firmly sewed, 
at either extremity, to slightly tapering ejid pieces ten 
feet long and half an inch wide. 

To make a pack, spread out on the ground your 
blanket, tent, or whatever you intend to use for the 
purpose, and double it over, more or less, to suit the 
size of your load. One or two trials will enable you 
to judge accurately of the extent of covering needed 
for the pack. Lay the strap on the blanket, &c., so 
that the centre piece shall be just over the edge of it, 
opposite the middle of the side, and the e?id pieces 
shall extend from the same side along the ends of the 
blanket, half-way from the middle of it to the ends. 
Then fold the ends of the blanket over the strap, let- 
ting them meet in the middle, or overlap, if necessary. 
The foundation of your pack is now ready. Make a 
pile of your luggage, buckets, provisions, &c. on the 
blanket, and when you think you have weight or bulk 
enough, take the ends of your strap, one at a time, 
and knot each to the corresponding end of the centre 
piece ; pull tightly, so that the ends of your blanket 
will be drawn together like the mouth of a bag. After 
the knots shall have been made, bring the ends of 
your strap together at the middle of the pack under 
the cefitre piece, cross them and carry them around to 
the opposite side of the pack, where they shall be 
firmly and finally knotted. The pack thus made is 
slung on the back ; the broad part of the strap rests 
against the forehead, and by leaning forward, and 



12 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

holding the strap with both hands over the shoulders, 
a heavy weight can be carried with comparative ease. 
The Indians use this method almost altogether. 

The foregoing list includes a small quantity of 
brandy. This should be used only in case of sickness. 
People are supposed to go into the woods for the pur- 
pose of gaining health and strength, and this inestima- 
ble privilege should not be prostituted by the use of 
liquor, merely to gratify an appetite for drink. The 
use of stimulants is sure to be followed by an unhealthy 
reaction, and in the woods, if nowhere else, there 
ought to be enough in Nature's charms to draw one 
away from a practice at once ruinous to health and 
to self-respect. For colds, or after a wetting of the 
body, Jamaica ginger will be found an excellent remedy 
and preventive. 

Parties who camp out in July or August will need 
some mosquito-repellent, to put on their faces and 
hands. Various compounds are put up, and are for 
sale, by druggists and others, which may answer the pur- 
pose ; but the writer has never found anything better 
than oil of tar, and sweet oil or glycerine, in equal quan- 
tities, and a little gum camphor and oil of pennyroyal 
mixed with it. At first, renewed applications are neces- 
sary at short intervals, until the skin becomes moist, 
and saturated with the odor of the mixture. 

For ladies, a pair of thick buckskin gauntlets, and a 
good veil, are the best and most pleasant substitutes 
for the above mixture. 

A mosquito net for the head, such as are for sale at 
sporting emporiums, will be a great comfort on warm 
nights, and especially about daybreak. 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 13 

Matches should be kept in a small tight tin box, in 
a dry part of your luggage. A water-proof pocket- 
match-box you should always carry with you, well 
filled. You may need it once in ten years, but might 
fare badly that one time if caught without matches. 

As to gun and fishing-tackle, some prefer one kind 
and some another. Usually campers-out take just 
what they can conveniently get. There are many guns 
in the market tliat answer equally well the purposes for 
which they are wanted. 'I'he principal points to be 
considered in selecting a hunting rifle are its lightness, 
accuracy, rapidity of action, and the flatness of its 
trajectory, — all of which qualities will be found united 
in several well-known magazine guns. For a two 
weeks' trip fifty cartridges will be found more than 
enough, unless one expects to ignore the possible 
presence of large game, and to shoot right and left at 
anything which may furnish a good target. 

A shot-gun will generally be found a useless encum- 
brance on a canoe trip in the Maine woods. 

For fly. rods, one made of ash and lancewood, and 
which weighs from eight to twelve ounces, and costs 
about five dollars, will answer well enough for ordinary 
fishing. Higher-priced rods can be had according to 
one's taste and resources, and afford, perhaps, more 
satisfaction to the scientific fisherman. They can well 
be taken care of, when the owner is at a hotel, but the 
camper-out will find it rather irksome to be continually 
putting his rod together, and taking it apart to avoid a 
rain-storm or the dews of night. 

For flies, the best are the Montreal, red-ibis, brown- 
hackle, and blue-jay. For spring-fishing additional 
varieties may be found good, such as the Jenny-Lind, 
the grizzle-king, the professor, and the gray-drake. 



14 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

Six-foot leaders are long enough. They should be 
of a pale bluish lint. 

A map is desirable as a guide ; it also serves to 
while away many an hour which might otherwise be 
dull. You become familiar with the character of the 
country, and, after study of the different water-courses, 
can often plan out trips, and post yourself upon their 
practicability, by questioning guides and others, when- 
ever opportunity offers. 

PROVISIONS. 

The following list of provisions will be found to con- 
tain all that is necessary for good camp-fare, together 
with a little that may be regarded as a luxury. The 
acid in pickles, tomatoes, and dried or canned fruit, 
serves as a corrective to the large amount of fat una- 
voidably eaten by campers, and just enough of these 
articles should be taken to serve this purpose, and 
vary one's diet, without adding too much extra weight 
to the necessary canoe-load. 

The fractions opposite each article in the list repre- 
sent the amount of such article which a man of average 
" camp-appetite " will eat in one day, and are based 
on the writer's experience with ten different men on 
six different trips. To know approximately how much 
to take for a given time, it is hardly necessary to say, 
multiply the number in your party by the number of 
days you are to be in camp, and this result by the 
several fractions. Of course there can be no absolute 
gauge of appetites, and during the last few days of 
your trip you may have to live on short rations ; or 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 15 

you may take so much game as to have an overplus 
of provisions. In either case, however, this hst will be 
found to be not wide of the mark. 

Daily Amount per Person. 

Baking powder 500 lb. 

Beans 063 qt. or .08 can. 

Butter 085 lb. 

Chocolate 030 lb. 

Cocoa 025 lb. 

Coffee 050 lb. 

Condensed milk 075 can. 

Corn, tomatoes, etc 100 can. 

Corned beef 080 lb. 

Dried peaches, apricots, etc 050 lb. 

Flour, white and Graham 500 lb. 

Hard bread 200 lb. 

Julienne, dried (invaluable) . . .020 lb. 

Lard 100 lb. 

Molasses 035 qt. 

Oat meal, wheat germ, rice, etc. . . .oSo lb. 

Onions 050 lb. 

Pepper 005 lb. 

Pickles, maple sugar, raisins . . . optional. 

Potatoes 020 bu. 

Pork or bacon 300 lb. 

Salt 040 lb. 

Sugar 250 lb. 

Tea 025 lb. 

Soap, matches ... ^ ... . optional. 

It must be borne in mind that, if any one of the 
above articles is not taken, more of something else 
must be substituted. Maple sugar, dried or canned 
fruit, chocolate, and corned beef are luxuries, and will 
have to be used sparingly, if taken in the quantities 
given above. Canned meats will be found most ac- 



1 6 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

ceptable for lunch, when you are on the move and do 
not or cannot stop long enough to cook. Flour will 
generally be found preferable to hard bread, as the 
latter is apt to become crumbled on being moved 
from place to place. 

Some parties go into the woods with a notion that 
they are sure to get all the game they need for sub- 
sistence, and that it is therefore unnecessary to take 
more than enough flour, &c. to give a pleasant change 
to one's diet. This is a great mistake. Rely on your 
own larder, not on Nature's, and you will be much 
better off. 



CANOES AND THEIR USAGE. 

A good birch-canoe should be made of tough bark, 
the eyes of which are not easily broken, and there 
should not be any inequalities or " humps " on that 
part which is usually in the water, for the water by 
swelling them makes the " humps " more prominent, 
and thus more likely to be scraped or broken by con- 
tact with rocks. Nor should a canoe be what is vul- 
garly called " hog-backed," that is, lower in the middle 
than at the ends. For general use it should be flat- 
bottomed, rather than have a sliglit keel. It will then 
ride in shallower water, and be less ticklish and more 
manageable. 

One can, with a little practice, learn how to paddle 
a canoe ; the secret of keeping a straight course lies 
in feathering the paddle at the end of the stroke. To 
be able to use the sctiitig-pole skilfully requires more 
study, not only to learn the effect on the canoe of 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 1 7 

each position and movement of the pole, but also the 
additional effect on it of the current or " set " of the 
water, and of gusts of wind, all of which must be 
" compensated." 

At all times a canoe should be so loaded as to be 
" trim," or perfectly level. A slight displacement of 
equlibrium is very annoying. 

When poling through rapids, the chief points to be 
borne in mind are to keep the bow pretty well loaded 
(more so when going up than when coming down), and 
to keep it pointed in a line parallel with the current. In 
sinking the pole into the water, it should be held away 
from the side of the canoe, and in pushing laterally it 
should be used from that side towards which you 
wish the bow to go. Much less strength is needed to 
push the bow around in this way, than to pull it around 
from the other side, besides which it is much less 
dangerous. In the latter case the current may swing 
the stem against and over the pole, and the jar and 
pressure may send the canoe-man into the water, or 
make him drop his pole. You should stand erect in 
the stern, with the left foot in front, and both feet on a 
line with the length of the canoe. Grasp the pole 
with both hands, the right uppermost, so that on the 
end of the push the left will be free to take hold 
higher up. This position is for poling on the right 
side. The pole may be shifted from side to side, and 
either end used, as emergency requires, but the end 
that is shod with a pick is alone reliable among slip- 
pery rocks. 

The posture of the man in the stern of a canoe is 
usually sitting on the rear thwart and rails behind it. 



1 8 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

The bow-man's best position is kneeling on the bottom, 
his thighs supported by the second thwart. More work 
can be done in this position than if sitting on the 
thwart or on a seat behind it, although the latter is the 
more comfortable. The more hghtly a canoe is loaded, 
the more easily it can be overturned, and for this rea- 
son it is best for both the bow-man and stern-man to 
sit on the bottom of the canoe while on stormy water. 

The scope of this work will not admit of more gen- 
eral discussion of this topic. A little practice, and a 
wetting or two, will give one sufficient insight into the 
theory to enable one soon to be quite at home in a 
canoe. 

For leaks in the canoe a mixture of resin, and tal- 
low or other fresh grease, is generally used. A small 
quantity of grease is needed, more or less, according 
as the water is cold or warm. If your mixture should 
be too soft, boiling will make it harder. It can be 
tested by putting a few drops on a chip, and dipping 
it in the water. The bark must be quite dry when it 
is appHed, which condition is best produced by turn- 
ing over the canoe and exposing it to the sun, or by 
holding a fire-brand near the injured part. And in 
this connection it may be said, that a canoe, when not 
required for use, should always be taken out of the 
water and turned over. While afloat, its bark be- 
comes saturated with water, and increases very much 
in weight. 

For the same reason, do not get sand into your 
canoe. It gets down under the ribs, and cannot be 
removed. Wash off the soles of your shoes before 
you step in, and do not step in when by so doing your 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 1 9 

canoe will be depressed on to sharp rocks or gravel. 
This rubs the bark and makes the eyes crack. A canoe 
should be treated as carefully as if it were made of 
glass. 

Many of the foregoing remarks now seldom have 
any practical application, for within the past ten years 
the birch-bark canoe has almost entirely given way to 
a canoe built on the same model, but covered with 
canvas. The latter is lighter, drier, and much more 
durable than the "birch," and will be found fully as 
serviceable in all respects. Patent foldmg canoes are 
not desirable for a tour through Maine. 

It is dangerous to attempt to sail in a canoe. When 
your course is straight, you can sometimes profitably 
lash two canoes together, not so close that they will 
chafe, and, by means of a rubber blanket or coat, sail 
before the wind. In a single canoe a thick bush 
planted or held in the bow will greatly help to acceler- 
ate your speed before the wind. 

It may not be out of place to say here, never allow 
the man in the stern of a canoe to have a loaded gun 
by his side while you are in the bow. The reason is 
too obvious to need explanation. 



GUIDES. 

Well-informed and reliable guides can be secured at 
prices ranging from one to two and a half dollars a day, 
according to the locality, and according to the length 
and difficulty of the trip in view. At Moosehead Lake, 
for services rendered parties staying at any of the hotels 
on the lake, the regular price is two dollars and a half 



20 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

and board, or three dollars, the guide to " find " him- 
self. For services from Moosehead on a trip where a 
canoe is likely to receive hard usage, three dollars per 
day and board may be asked, while for a long and not 
difficult trip less than two and a half dollars and board 
may be reasonable compensation. 

Away from Moosehead Lake, guide-hire is rarely 
more than two dollars a day, while at the Forks of the 
Kennebec and at Sebec Lake good guides may be had 
for from a dollar to a dollar and a half a day, and 
board. 

The laws of supply and demand apply to guides and 
their compensation, as well as to other marketable 
" commodities," and good guides in the " season " are 
apt to have litde spare time on their hands to dispose 
of at less than the usual local rates. Inferior guides, 
lacking in knowledge of the various routes and fish- 
ing grounds, can be had at a very low price. 

Guides who receive the above-named prices furnish a 
canoe and the necessary camp " kit," except blankets. 
Sportsmen provide all the food needed. 

Cases have been not uncommon where men of 
prominence in their own neighborhood have know- 
mgly recommended as competent guides persons of 
notoriously bad character, temper, or incapacity. 
Again, some guides have wilfully imposed upon parties 
engaging them, and by misrepresentation, apathy, or 
opposition to their wishes, have made an utter failure of 
iv'hat could otherwise have been a delightful trip, — one 
on which perhaps the participants had been building 
hopes of pleasure for months previously. Such practices 
do great injury to those guides who conscientiously try 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 21 

to make their employers realize their expectations of a 
pleasant vacation, and are apt to reflect on the entire 
fraternity, to their great discredit.* 

In this connection it may not be out of place to say 
a word about the treatment of guides. They may pic- 
ture in exaggerated language the hardships of this or 
that particular trip, and dwell upon the advantages of 
some others, which they well know will require much 
less labor on their part. You thus may be imposed 
upon, and may miss having a great deal of enjoyment. 
Get your information well digested before you start, and 
when your mind is once made up, push ahead. Let 
your guide understand, at the outset, where you mean 
to go, and that you expect him to devote all his energy 
and experience to getting there. 

On the other hand, do not harass him in trivial 
matters. Some persons stand over a guide, when he is 
cooking, and object to this way of holding the frying- 
pan, or that way of turning the flippers, and perhaps 
in a majority of cases thoughtlessly annoy him when 
there is no necessity for it. 

Give your guide plenty of time to select a good 
camp-ground, and to prepare for the night. Favor 
him when you can. Keep your end of the canoe trim, 
and do not hesitate to get out and walk now and then, 
if by so doing you can avoid tearing or scraping the 

baik. I 

I 
* Within a year or two last past some of the Kinco guides 
have demanded as much as three dollars and a half and four 
dollars per day, and, besides, have refused to engage them- 
selves for a less time than a month. By declining to submit 
to any such extortion visitors will render a service to the 
public. 



22 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 



CAMP-GROUND. 

It is of the utmost importance for tourists to stop 
early enough, at the end of each day, to select a good 
site for their camp, to pitch their tent, and to get wood 
enough together to last over night. Many people do 
not seem to think how hard it is to do all of these things 
in the dark. Only an absolute necessity should induce 
late camping. An hour before sunset is late enough to 
cease paddling. 

A good camp-ground will be one with a good land- 
ing, — not a steep, muddy bank, — where there is 
plenty of wood, good water, and where the ground is 
dry and level. A small tree or two may have to be cut 
down, and all roots and "humps " should be removed. 
They make themselves very prominent before morning, 
even when covered generously with boughs. 

The tent should be pitched with the head to wind- 
ward, so that the smoke from the fire shall not be blown 
into it. It should also be well under shelter, in antici- 
pation of high winds or heavy rain, and in a position 
where a heavy rain would not be likely to flood it. 

The ridge-pole and uprights should be well trimmed 
of all projecting twigs which might make a hole in the 
tent, except that the uprights may have left on one side 
several such, on which to hang belts, cups, and the like. 
The uprights should be cut about nine feet long, with 
a slight notch on the upper end, and the lower end 
sharpened. Drive them into the ground, by their own 
weight, and work them from side to side, thus enlar- 
ging and deepening the holes until the poles are sunk 
sufficiently to stand out of ground the height of the 







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HINTS TO CAMPERS. 23 

tent. Then lay the latter out flat on its side, put the 
ridge-pole in its place, along the top of the tent, take 
down the uprights and insert them under the side of 
the tent, up against the ends of the ridge-pole, and, 
with one person holding each of the two poles, lift into 
a perpendicular position, and set them into their holes. 
They will usually stand alone while the pins (notched 
sticks) are being driven into the ground. 

A string stretched across the tent, just under the 
lidge-pole, will make a good clothes-Hne for socks, 
towels, and the like. Guns and rods can be stacked 
around the pole at the head of the tent, at night, and 
made secure by a strap. 

The historic camp-bed is made of fir-boughs, laid 
down in rows with the under side up, and overlapping 
each other shingle fashion, the larger part, or stem, 
being covered by the adjoining layer. It requires some 
knack to break off boughs from fir-trees. A quick snap, 
accomplished by the thumb and fore and middle fingers, 
does it. 

Tables and seats can be improvised, and with a small 
amount of labor a camp can be considerably embel- 
lished. Two rubber blankets stretched over a ridge- 
pole, which is laid on, and tied to, the branches of 
adjoining trees, make an excellent canopy for the table. 
To provide a seat, select two trees about four or five 
feet apart ; with your axe cut into them on the same 
side for several inches, about a foot and a half above 
ground. Then make several perpendicular cuts into 
this part of the trees, into which drive a wedge, which 
shall project about a foot, and a little above a horizon- 
tal. On these wedges lay poles cut the proper Icngtli, 
and you have your seat. 



24 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

A candlestick may be made, by taking a stick as 
large round as your thumb, sharpening one end, split- 
ting the other, and inserting the candle, which will be ■ 
held in place by the elasticity of the wood. If not, it 
can be tied with a string or withe. 

CAMP-FIRE. 

The camp-fire should be built about six feet from 
the door of your tent. The large trunk of a tree, say 
five feet long and two feet in diameter, (or two smaller 
logs, one on top of the other,) makes your back-log, or 
reflector, while two smaller and shorter ones, placed at 
right angles to it, about four feet apart, make your 
"hand-junks," all of them preferably of hard wood. 
The active or burning part of the fire will be between 
the hand-junks, and it may readily be lighted with 
birch-bark. Dry soft-wood is usually abundant. Dead 
wood found lying on the ground is apt to be wet and 
soggy, and will not burn readily. Pull down two or 
three small dead trees, which can quickly be cut or 
broken up in lengths to suit. This serves well to kindle 
your fire, after which hard wood will be found hotter 
and less crackly. 

The following woods are good for cooking, when 
dry, substantially in the order named : pine, fir, cedar, 
hemlock, and spruce. The last four kinds crackle con- 
siderably, and make a great quantity of ashes. A dead 
and partially decayed hemlock will burn well, and will 
not crackle very much. 

All of the foregoing, when green, have a good deal 
of gum in them, except cedar, which splits easily, and 
is much used for tables, skin-stretchers, and the like. 



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HINTS TO CAMPERS, 25 

Of the hard woods, rock-maple and yellow-birch are 
the hardest found in Northern Maine. The latter, 
being very tough, and usually growing to a much 
greater size than rock-maple, is good for back-logs and 
hand-junks, while white-birch is easily split, burns 
freely, but does not give as much heat as rock-maple 
or yellow-birch. 

COOKING. 

Having given the kinds of food suitable for camp, 
and the quantities of each to be provided, it may not 
be out of place to give a few hints as to its preparation 
for the table. 

Fish chowder is one of the readiest of camp dishes, 
as well as one of the most palatable. Clean your fish, 
cut it into pieces about an inch long, peel and slice 
your potatoes, not too thin, and put into your pail 
alternate layers of fish and potatoes, together Avith a 
small quantity of pork or bacon cut into small squares, 
and a quarter of an onion chopped fine. Season each 
layer, as you put it in, with salt and pepper, and cover 
the whole with water. Boil about fifteen or twenty 
minutes, after which stir in one or two table-spoonfuls 
of condensed milk, add hard-bread, soaked or not, to 
suit the fancy, and leave on the fire a few moments 
longer. After the hard-bread shall have been added, 
great care should be taken that the mixture does not 
burn. 

For duck, partridge, or musquash stew, cut the 
meat into small pieces, and place it in a pail, two 



26 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

thirds full of water, where it can boil gently. After 
half an hour or more, according to the tenderness of 
the meat, season to the taste, add two handfuls of 
pearled barley, and boil twenty minutes longer, taking 
care that the barley does not burn on the bottom of 
the pail. In the absence of barley, thicken with a 
little flour previously dissolved in cold water. 

For white bread, a small quantity of baking powder, 
according to directions which accompany the latter, 
and a pinch of salt, should be thoroughly mixed with 
the flour, dry. Then add cold water, stir vigorously, 
and knead ad llhitum. Bread can be baked in a regu- 
lar baker, or in a frying-pan. The latter method re- 
quires good coals and a hot fire. Put the dough in 
the pan, which has been previously greased, and set 
the latter on a small bed of coals, a foot or more from 
the fire. Leave it there a few moments, until the 
under side shall have hardened enough to retain its 
shape. Then tilt the pan up, and support it by a 
crotched stick stuck into the hole in the end of the 
handle. The bed of coals behind and underneath, 
and the fire in front, will soon cook the loaf, which will 
need watching and turning. 

" Flippers," or " flap-jacks," are mixed like bread, 
except that a little more baking powder is used, and a 
good deal more water. 

Graham bread is made like wheat bread, with two 
parts of Graham and one of wheat flour, and some 
sugar or molasses. A bread that contains sugar or mo- 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 27 

lasses mil, when baking, burn much more easily than 
one without sweets, and therefore needs more careful 
watching. 

A good johnny-cake, or suet-cake, can be made of 
equal parts of wheat flour and corn meal. First mix 
in your baking powder, then cut up into small squares 
a piece of pork, try out the fat, and pour the whole 
into your pan with molasses and a little cold water. 
Stir briskly, and bake before a hot fire. 

Some persons prefer " prepared " flour for camp use, 
but the writer has always had the best of success with 
baking powders. 

For baked beans you need an iron pot with close- 
fitting cover, and a good dry bean-hole. The latter 
can be dug with the blade of your paddle, near the 
camp-fire. A fire should be made and kept ablaze in 
it for an hour or more, so as thoroughly to heat the 
ground. Pine bark, cherry, or black-birch sticks make 
good coals. 

Pick over the beans, put them into a pail of water, 
and set on the fire after, or during, supper. Parboil 
until the skin can easily be rubbed off the beans, when 
the water must be drained off, and the beans trans- 
ferred to their iron pot. Put a good piece of pork in 
the middle near the top, add two teaspoonfuls of 
molasses, and cover the whole with water. The coals 
should then be shovelled out of the hole, a few being 
left on the bottom, the covered pot set in and sur- 
rounded by coals, on top and on the sides. Cover tlie 



28 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

coals in turn with earth, to prevent a too rapid com- 
bustion of the former. In the absence of a bean -hole 
hang your pot or tin pail high over the camp fire for 
the night. 

It is hardly necessary to add directions for making 
tea and coffee, boiling or frying potatoes, or frying fish, 
except that fish should be put into the frying-pan only 
after the grease is thoroughly hot. Every one is sup- 
posed to know how these simpler dishes are prepared. 
Should any camper-out fail of the requisite knowledge, 
let him once become hungry, really " camp-hungry," 
and he will need no instructor. The art of cooking 
will come of itself. 



DRESSING GAME. 

The larger game of the woods is skinned by cutting 
through the hide, under the belly, from the tail to the 
neck, and laterally up the four legs and around the 
knees and hocks. The skin is then stripped or cut 
from the body, the animal lying on its back. The 
layer of flesh under the belly is deceptively thin. 
Therefore, in cutting through it to take out the entrails 
care must be exercised not to cut them. Their connec- 
tion with the body is severed just back of the breast. 
The carcass should finally be washed thoroughly, and 
hung up by means of the sinews on the hind legs. 
All refuse matter should be buried at a long distance 
from camp. 

The brisket, or breast, the " back-half," a part of 
the fore-quarter which runs on the ridge of the back 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 29 

on either side of the spine and above the ribs, and the 
hind-quarters, are generally the best parts of large 
game, while in the moose the tongue, nose, and lower 
lip, and in the beaver the tail and liver, are considered 
great dehcacies. 

The smaller fur-bearing animals, such as otter, mink, 
and musquash, are skinned by cutting across the end 
of the bod)' from the hock of one leg to that of the 
other ; then the lower parts of the hind-legs are cut off 
without being separated from the skin, which is pulled 
down, on all sides, over the body of the animal, after 
the manner of a stocking. 

Trout are prepared for the frying-pan by being cut 
lengthwise along the belly, and having the entrails re- 
moved and the head and tail cut off. A pleasant flavor 
is imparted to them by hanging them where they will 
be in the smoke of the camp-fire for several hours. 

HYGIENIC NOTES. 

[The following pages are taken, with the kind permission of 
Dr. Elliott Coues, U. S. A., from that gentleman's valuable work 
on '* Field Ornithology," (Salem, Naturalists' Agency,) and the 
advice given in them cannot fail to prove serviceable, both to 
those who go into the woods to camp out, and to those who 
stay at home. It is here offered again to the public by the 
writer of this little book, with a grateful sense of the obligation 
he, in common with many others, is under to its author.] 

ACCIDENTS. 

Always carry a loaded gun at half-cock, unless you 
are about to shoot. Unless the lock fail, accidental 
discharge is impossible, except under these circum- 



30 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

Stances : a^ a direct blow on the nipple or pin ; b^ 
catching of both hammer and trigger simultaneously, 
drawing back of the formei and its release whilst the 
trigger is still held, — the chances against which are 
simply incalculable. Full-cock, tickUsh as it seems, is 
safer than no-cock, when a tap on the hammer or even 
the heel-plate, or a slight catch and release of the 
hammer, may cause discharge. Never let the muzzle 
of a loaded gun point toward your own person for a 
single instant. Get your gun over fences or into boats 
or carriages, before you get over or in yourself, or at 
any rate no later. Remove caps or cartridges on enter- 
ing a house. Never aim a gun, loaded or not, at any 
object, unless you mean to press the trigger. Never 
put a loaded gun away long enough to forget whether 
it is loaded or not ; never leave a loaded gun to be 
found by others under circumstances reasonably pre- 
supposing it to be unloaded. Never put a gun where 
it can be knocked down by a dog or a child. Never 
forget that, though a gunning accident may be some- 
times interpretable (from a certain standpoint) as a 
"dispensation of Providence," such are dispensed 
oftencst to the careless 

The secret of safe dhnblng is never to relax one 
hold until another is secured ; it is in spirit equally 
applicable to scrambling over rocks, a particularly diffi- 
cult thing to do safely with a loaded gun. Test rotten, 
slippery, or otherwise suspicious holds, before trusting 
them. In lifting the body up anywhere keep the 
mouth shut, breathe through the nostrils, and go 
slowly. 

In swhn7ning, waste no strength unnecessarily in 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 31 

trying to stem a current; yield partly, and land 
obliquely lower down ; if exhausted, float, — the slight- 
est motion of the hands will ordinarily keep the face 
above water ; and in any event keep your wits col- 
lected. In fording deeply a heavy stone will strengthen, 
your position. Never sail a boat experimentally; if 
you are no sailor, take one with you or stay on land. 

In crossing a high, narrow footpath, never look lower 
than your feet ; the muscles will work true, if not con- 
fused with faltering instructions from a giddy brain. 
On soft ground see what, if anything, has preceded 
you ; large hoof-marks generally mean that the way is 
safe ; if none are found, inquire for yourself before 
going on. Quicksand is the most treacherous, be- 
cause far more dangerous than it looks; but I have 
seen a mule's ears finally disappear in genuine mud. 
Cattle-paths, however erratic, commonly prove the 
surest way out of a difficult place, whether of uncer- 
tain footing or dense undergrowth. 



MIASM. 

Unguarded exposure in malarious regions usually 
entails sickness, often preventable, however, by due 
precautions. It is worth knowing, in the first place, 
that miasmatic poison is most powerful between sun- 
set and sunrise, — more exacdy, from the damp of the 
evening until night vapors are dissipated ; we may be 
out in the daytime with comparative impunity where 
to pass a night would be almost certain disease. If 
forced to camp out, seek the highest and driest spot, 
put a good fire on the swamp side, and also, if possi- 



32 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

ble, let trees intervene. Never go out on an empty 
stomach ; just a cup of coffee and a crust may make 
a decided difference. Meet the earliest unfavorable 
symptoms with quinine, — I should rather say, if unac- 
climated, anticipate them with this invaluable agent. 
Endeavor to maintain high health of all functions by 
the natural means of regularity and temperance in diet, 
exercise and repose. 

"taking cold." 

This vague " household word " indicates one or 
more of a long varied train of unpleasant affections, 
nearly always traceable to one or the other of only two 
causes : sudden change of temperature, and unequal 
distributio7i of temperature. No extremes of heat or 
cold can alone effect this result; persons frozen to 
death do not " take cold " during the process. But 
if a part of the body be rapidly cooled, as by evapora- 
tion from a wet article of clothing, or by sitting in a 
draught of air, the rest of the body remaining at an 
ordinary temperature ; or if the temperature of the 
whole be suddenly changed by going out into the cold, 
or, especially, by coming into a warm room, there is 
much liability of trouble. There is an old saying, 
" When the air comes through a hole, say your prayers 
to save your soul " ; and I should think almost any 
one could get a " cold " with a spoonful of water on 
the wrist held to a key-hole. Singular as it may seem, 
sudden warming when cold is more dangerous than 
the reverse ; every one has noticed how soon the hand- 
kerchief is required on entering a heated room on a 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 33 

cold day. Frost-bite is an extreme illustration of this. 
As the Irishman said on picking himself up, it was not 
the fall, but stopping so quickly, that hurt him ; it is 
not the lowering of the temperature to the freezing- 
point, but its subsequent elevation, that devitalizes the 
tissue. This is why rubbing with snow, or bathing in 
cold water, is required to restore safely a frozen part ; 
the arrested circulation must be very gradually re- 
established, or inflammation, perhaps mortification 
ensues. General precautions against taking cold are 
almost self-evident, in this light. There is ordinarily 
Httle if any danger to be apprehended from wet clothes, 
so long as exercise is kept up ; for the " glow " about 
compensates for the extra cooling by evaporation. 
Nor is a complete drenching more hkely to be injuri- 
ous than wetting of one part. But never sit still wet ; 
and in changing, rub the body dry. There is a general 
tendency, springing from fatigue, indolence, or indiffer- 
ence, to neglect damp feet ; that is to say, to dry them 
by the fire ; but this process is tedious and uncertain. 
I would say especially, off with the muddy boots and 
sodden socks at once, — dry stockings and slippers, 
after a hunt, may make just the difference of your 
being able to go out again or never. 

Take care never to check perspiration ; during this 
process the body is in a somewhat critical condition, 
and sudden arrest of the function may result disas- 
trously, — even fatally. One part of the business of 
perspiration is to equalize bodily temperature, and it 
must not be interfered with. The secret of much that 
is to be said about bathing when heated, lies here. A 
person overheated, x^anting it may be, with throb])ing 



34 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

temples and a dry skin, is in danger partly because the 
natural cooling by evaporation from the skin is denied, 
and this condition is sometimes not far from a " sun- 
stroke." Under these circumstances, a person of fairly 
good constitution may plunge into the water with 
impunity, — even with benefit. But if the body be 
already cooling by sweating, rapid abstraction of heat 
from the surface may cause internal congestion, never 
unattended with danger. Drinking ice-water offers a 
somewhat parallel case ; even on stooping to drink at 
the brook, when flushed with heat, it is well to bathe 
the face and hands first, and to taste the water before 
a full draught. 

It is a well-known excellent rule, not to bathe imme- 
diately after a full meal ; because during digestion the 
organs concerned are comparatively engorged, and any 
sudden disturbance of the circulation may be disas- 
trous. 

The imperative necessity of resisting drowsiness 
under extreme cold requires no comment. 

In walking under a hot sun the head may be sensi- 
bly protected by green leaves or grass in the hat ; they 
may be advantageously moistened, but not enough to 
drip about the ears. Under such circumstances the 
slightest giddiness, dimness of sight, or confusion of 
ideas, should be taken as a warning of possible sun- 
stroke, instantly demanding rest, and shelter if practi- 
cable. 

HUNGER AND FATIGUE 

are more closely related than they might seem to 
be ; one is a sign that the fuel is out, and the other 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 35 

asks for it. Extreme fatigue, indeed, destroys appe- 
tite ; this simply means, temporary incapacity for di- 
gestion. But even far short of this, food is more easily 
digested, and better relished after a httle preparation 
of the furnace. On coming home tired it is much bet- 
ter to make a leisurely and reasonably nice toilet than 
to eat at once, or to lie still thinking how tired you 
are ; after a change and a wash you will feel like a 
" new man," and go to table in capital state. What- 
ever dietetic irregularities a high state of civilization may 
demand or render practicable, a normally healthy per- 
son is inconvenienced almost as soon as his regular 
meal-time passes without food ; and few can work com- 
fortably or profitably fasting over six or eight hours. 
Eat before starting ; if for a day's tramp, take a lunch ; 
the most frugal meal will appease if it do not satisfy 
hunger, and so postpone its urgency. As a small scrap 
of practical wisdom, I would add, keep the remnants 
of the lunch, if there are any ; for you cannot always 
be sure of getting in to supper. 



STIMULATION. 

When cold, fatigued, depressed in mind, and on other 
occasions, you may feel inclined to resort to artificial 
stimulus. Respecting this many-sided theme I have a 
few words to offer of direct bearing on the [bird] col- 
lector's case. It should be clearly understood, in the 
first place, that a stimulant confers no strength what- 
ever ; it simply calls the powers that be into increased 
action at their own expense. Seeking real strength in 
stimulus is as wise as an attempt to lift yourself up by 



36 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

the boot-straps. You may gather yourself to leap the 
ditch and you clear it ; but no such muscular energy 
can be sustained \ exhaustion speedily renders further 
expenditure impossible. But now suppose a very pow- 
erful mental impression be made, say the circumstance 
of a succession of ditches in front, and a mad dog 
behind ; if the stimulus of terror be sufficiently strong, 
you may leap on till you drop senseless. Alcoholic 
stimulus is a parallel case, and is not seldom pushed to 
the same extreme. Under its influence you never can 
tell when you are tired ; the expenditure goes on, in- 
deed, with unnatural rapidity, only it is not felt at the 
time ; but the upshot is, you have all the original fatigue 
to endure and to recover from, plus the fatigue result- 
ing from over-excitation of the system. 

Taken as a fortification against cold, alcohol is as 
unsatisfactory as a remedy for fatigue. Insensibility 
to cold does not imply protection. The fact is, the 
exposure is greater than before ; the circulation and 
respiration being hurried, the waste is greater, and as 
sound fuel cannot be immediately supplied, the tem- 
perature of the body is soon lowered. The transient 
warmth and glow over, the system has both cold and 
depression to endure ; there is no use in borrowing 
from yourself and fancying you are richer. 

Secondly, the value of any stimulus (except in a few 
exigencies of disease or injury) is in proportion, not 
to the intensity, but to the equableness and durability 
of its effect. This is one reason why tea, coffee, and 
articles of corresponding qualities, are preferable to 
alcoholic drinks ; they work so smoothly that their 
effect is often unnoticed, and they " stay by " well ; 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 37 

the friction of alcohol is tremendous in comparison. 
A glass of grog may help a veteran over the fence, but 
no one, young or old, can shoot all day on whiskey. . . . 
Thirdly, undue excitation of any physical function 
is followed by corresponding depression, on the simple 
principle that action and reaction are equal : and the 
balance of health turns too easily to be wilfully dis- 
turbed. Stimulation is a draft upon vital capital, when 
interest alone should suffice ; it m^y be needed at 
times to bridge a chasm, but habitual living beyond 
vital income infaUibly entails bankruptcy in health. 
The use of alcohol in health seems practically re- 
stricted to purposes of sensuous gratification on the 
part of those prepared to pay a round price for this 
luxury. The three golden rules here are, never drink 
before breakfast, never drink alone, and never drink 
bad liquor ; their observance may make even the 
abuse of alcohol tolerable. Serious objections for a 
naturalist, at least, are that science, viewed through 
a glass, seems distant and uncertain, while the joys 
of rum are immediate and unquestionable ; and that 
intemperance, being an attempt to defy certain phy.<;i- 
cal laws, is therefore eminently unscientific. 



PART SECOND. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND IMME- 
DIATE VICINITY. 



BOSTON TO BANGOR. 

For a number of years past the quickest, and per- 
haps as comfortable a way as any of making the journey 
between Boston and Moosehead Lake has been to leave 
the former place in the evening, breakfast at the depot 
in Bangor, and proceed in the morning train from that 
city. Or one could leave Boston in the morning and 
pass the night in Bangor ; but the uncertainty of find- 
ing good hotel accommodation, added to the incon- 
venience of thus breaking the journey, made people 
prefer the more direct way, albeit it was the more 
fatiguing. Improvements lately made in the train ser- 
vice of the several railroads along the route render it 
possible to reach Kineo in one day from Boston, either 
by way of Bangor, or by a short cut via Newport and 
Dexter, over a new railroad from Dexter to Dover. 
Full particulars are contained in a time-table at the 
commencement of this volume. By either route bag- 
gage is now checked through to Kineo, but it may be 
well for passengers to see that their trunks are put on 
board the steamer at West Cove (Greenville Junction). 



40 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

The train of the Mame Central Raih-oad for Moose- 
head Lake is made up at and starts from the principal 
depot in Bangor, stopping for passengers at the Ex- 
change St. depot, on the east side of the Kenduskeag 
river, a quarter of a mile beyond. 

BANGOR TO THE LAKE. 

Leaving Bangor at half past seven in the morning, 
the train carries one along the west bank of the Penob- 
scot, over the European and North American Railway, 
which is now a part of the Maine Central system, twelve 
miles, to Oldtown, where it goes on to the tracks of 
the Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad. Here from the 
car-window can soon be seen, across the water, the 
Indian island, with its church and numerous dwelling- 
houses, — an object of curiosity to all strangers. 

In clear weather good views of Mt. Ktaadn can be 
had from South Lagrange and from Milo. At the 
latter station connection is made with a train for 
Katahdin Iron Works, and at Monson Station with 
one for Monson, twenty minutes' ride beyond, a town 
already famous for its slate quarries, for the pictu- 
rcsqueness of its situation, and for the bracing quality 
of its atmosphere. 

The country through which the cars pass is pretty, 
although not specially interesting until they near the 
town of Blanchard, beyond Monson Station. Russell 
Mountain and other peaks then appear on the left, 
frowning down on the valley of the Piscataquis. The 
road-bed lies on the brow of a ridge east of the valley, 
and crosses several deep ravines over high trestle-work, 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 4 1 

affording many a picturesque view of the valley and of 
the mountains beyond. 

At Shirley the cars leave the ridge along which they 
have been cautiously creeping, and from this point the 
route lies through flat and swampy land, and emerges 
finally at West Cove, at the foot of Moosehead Lake, 
at the junction of the International or Canadian Pacific 
Railroad. The last mile or two of road lies on the 
side of a " kame." 

West Cove, or Greenville Junction, is as yet a small 
but growing settlement, which has sprung into existence 
since the completion of the Bangor and Piscataquis 
road to the lake, in July, 1885. The Moosehead Inn, 
a large and commodious hotel recently built, will be 
found convenient for transients. Hotel stages connect 
here for Greenville, a mile and a quarter to the east. 
Passengers for Kineo continue their journey up the 
lake by steamer. 

From West Cove Spencer Mountain — Sabohtawan 
— is visible on the north, while the Squaw Mountains 
lie immediately on the west. 

GREENVILLE AND VICINITY. 

Greenville, a small village with one church and about 
two hundred inhabitants, is at the southern end of 
Moosehead Lake, on the arm called the East Cove, 
and is the focus of the logging operations on the upper 
Kennebec and Penobscot waters. The advent of two 
railroads in recent years has stimulated business at 
Greenville, and all is bustle and activity where formerly 
existed the monotony of a quiet country resort. 



42 MOOSE HE AD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

Apart from its being a silent witness of this activity 
there is nothing, in summer or winter, specially to 
interest strangers in Greenville, more than in many 
other favorite country resorts. The view of the lake 
from the village is pretty, although circumscribed, but 
perhaps the mountain-tops, and the snatches of water 
visible among the rocky and wooded islets near at 
hand, awaken a larger anticipation of the scenes and 
enjoyment still to come. 

There are two hotels in Greenville, the Eveleth and 
Lake Houses, only the latter of which pretends, of late 
years, to cater to summer visitors. Guests can obtain 
teams at reasonable rates, with or without a driver, to 
make excursions to Wilson Pond or elsewhere in the 
neighborhood. Campers-out will find several good 
stores at Greenville, where they can get almost all the 
necessary articles of camp fare, or of camp equipage, 
including canoes. 

Near Greenville there are a number of ponds and 
streams in which trout abound, and which sportsmen 
frequently visit. The most noteworthy are the 

WILSON PONDS, 

the nearer of which is three miles distant, to the east. 
A good wagon-road runs two miles of the way, to a 
farm where teams can be left and baited. The other 
mile may be walked, and the path leads over the farm, 
down a steep bank to the lower and larger pond. Fish 
are taken here almost exclusively with bait, and it is 
said that when they bite here, they will not rise in the 
lake, and vice versa. Boats can be hired at fifty cents 
a day. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 43 

A boat-ride across the lower pond and a short walk 
over a good path take one to the upper pond, which 
lies very prettily ensconced among surrounding moun- 
tains. Gerrish Pond, west of Big Wilson, Eagle Stream, 
Coffee House Stream (so called from the fact that a 
tavern or " coffee-house " stood on its banks in former 
days when the road to Moosehead ran due north 
thro.ugh the centre of Monson), and other tributaries 
of Wilson Stream contain many a trout-hole, while 
numerous waterfalls along their courses, high and pic- 
turesque, add to the pleasure of a day's ramble through 
the cool recesses of the surrounding forests. 

Three miles up the Lily Bay road a hotel for perma- 
ment boarders has been built by Mr. Victor McFarlane 
on the old Cameron farm. It affords a magnificent view 
of Squaw Mt., the lake, and its pretty islands below. 
Other pleasant walks and drives may be had in differ- 
ent directions, and a variety of pretty excursions may 
be made on the lake by sail-boat or canoe. With all 
its varied attractions one can spend a few days in 
the neighborhood of Greenville very pleasantly and 
quietly. 

FITZGERALD AND SQUAW PONDS. 

From the foot of the lake it is about six miles by 
water to Johnson's Landing, a mile west of North 
S(iuaw Brook, whence a logging road leads, half a mile, 
direct to Fitzgerald Pond. Squaw Pond can be reached 
from West Cove by a path two and a half miles long, 
or one can go the whole distance overland from Green- 
ville, perhaps a mile further. A boat is usually kept at 



44 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

the pond. Squaw Brooks are not navigable by canoes 
for more than a few rods. Fishing is sometimes good 
at their mouths, and in the ponds of which they are the 
outlets. 

THE ASCENT OF SQUAW MT. 

is made most easily over a path bushed out and cut 
anew in iSSo. It leaves the north side of North 
Squaw Brook, and for two miles or more runs nearly 
west with a slight rise, being thus far an old logging- 
road and wet in some places. It then turns to the left, 
crosses a gully, and rises abruptly, the entire distance 
to the summit being about six miles, and requiring 
somewhat less than four hours to accomplish it com- 
fortably. Half a mile below the summit are a miniature 
pond, a brook of good water, and excellent camp- 
ground well protected from the wind. A magnificent 
panorama opens out before one from the summit, the 
view taking in mountain, lake, and forest for miles, 
and including the Spencer Mts., Ktaadn, Joe Merry, 
White Cap, and other peaks near Katahdin Iron Works, 
Barren, Boarstone, Russell, Bigelow, Abraham, IMiseree, 
and Bald, from the southeast, around to the west and 
northwest. Squaw Mt. is 2,267 f^^^ above IMoosehead 
Lake, or 3,262 feet above sea-level. . The descent to 
the lake can be made in two hours. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Each renewed visit to Moosehead Lake attaches one 
more firmly to its magic presence and lovely views, 
every feature of which offers the returning traveller an 
indescribable welcome. Stretching here and there in 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 45 

irregular and broken confusion, its coves and bays 
grope about, as it were, like the arms of a cephalopod ; 
studded with islands numerous as the days of the year, 
from the tiny rocklet with its scanty, half-starved off- 
spring of bushes, to the more extended area, covered 
with prodigal growths of fir and spruce ; surrounded 
by mountains whose soft outlines and ever-varying 
tints are objects of untiring admiration ; — these, and a 
thousand other beauties that steal unconsciously into 
the spirit, make up a combination that cannot fail to 
charm. 

Moosehead Lake, nine hundred and ninety-five feet 
above sea-level, is about thirty-eight miles long, and 
varies in width from one to fourteen miles. Several 
hotels and taverns have sprung up, here and there, on 
its shores, and of late years the continuity of its dark 
green forests has been broken by the bright patches 
of farm lands, and white farm-houses peep up in many 
places, to indicate the thrift of their sturdy owners. 

At the foot of the lake will be found boats of all 
sizes and descriptions. Tourists go up the lake either 
in sail-boats, which are to let by the day or week with 
the services of their owners, and as many more guides 
as may be necessary, or they take passage on one 
of the steamers which ply regularly between the foot 
of the lake and Kineo. The latter make two trips a 
day in the season between these places, and in the 
summer season run daily from Kineo to the head of 
the lake. Their captains are very obliging, and to ac- 
commodate parties often go out of their regular course 
to the East Outlet, Spencer Narrows, and other points 
less distant. At almost any time a steamer may be 
chartered for a day or excursion at reasonable rates. 



46 ' MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

A telegraph line is now open at all seasons to Green- 
ville, Wilson's at the East Outlet, and Mt. Kineo 
House. 

Those who go up the lake from Greenville, instead 
of from West Cove, find themselves threading their 
way among a number of small islands, passing to the 
right and almost within touching distance of Mile 
Island with its white barrel-capped mast, then almost 
grazing on the other side Ledge Island, the most 
prominent mass of granite in the lake. West Cove, 
the point of land north of it, and the sloping sides 
of Moose Island glide by on the left successively, and 
the steamer is abreast of Burnt Jacket Cliff on the 
east in quite an open expanse of water, from which a 
fine prospect is had of Squaw Mt. Elephant Mt. is 
prominent on the right, and glimpses may be had of 
White Cap Mt. further east. 

The steamer's course then lies past Birch Island, 
between Deer and Sugar Islands, which are so large as 
to be undistinguishable from the mainland. Emerging 
from her narrow channel she has now accomplished 
half of her journey (ten miles), and enters the widest 
part of the lake, where it is fourteen miles across from 
the Kennebec Dam to the head of Spencer Bay. Be- 
yond the latter the two Spencer Mountains, round 
Kokadjo, and long Sabohtawan, whose suuimits have 
been visible from West Cove and from time to time 
from the surface of the lake, now stand out in all their 
immensity, no foot-hills near to dwarf their proportions. 
East of them, on a clear day, Ktaadn's mightier but 
more distant mass discloses its rugged outlines and 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 47 

more varied contrasts of light and shadow, calling forth 
expressions at once of surprise and admiration. 

North and west of the Spencers is Lobster Mt., to 
the left of it Little Kineo, Dry Mt., and Kineo, whose 
form, all but its very summit, long and flat, has hitherto 
been hidden from sight, while northwest and west the 
Blue Ridge, opposite Kineo, massive Bald Mt, and 
the forked peaks of Mts. Abraham and Bigelow can 
all be seen distinctly on a clear day. West of Deer 
Island are the 

EAST OUTLET AND DAM, 

where the Kennebec resumes its course, previously 
interrupted by the lake at the mouth of Moose River. 
This is now a station of the International R. R., has 
a small hotel, and is a favorite fishing-ground in 
September. Black, Green, and Snake Islands lie in 
the lake near the shore just above the outlet. 

The Kennebec is very rapid immediately below the 
dam, and although a part of the distance between the 
dam and 

INDIAN POND 

is easy to run, it is considered safer to be hauled 
across, five miles, over a good road. On the right 
bank of the river, about two miles below the dam, is a 
farm where a team can be secured to do the neces- 
sary hauling. A road runs from the same farm to 
Churchill Stream. Indian Pond is divided into two 
parts, connected by a thoroughfare, and altogether is 
over three miles long. There is good fishing at the 
mouth of West Outlet Stream, in the thoroughfare. 



48 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

and at the outlet of the pond. Below this point the 
river is wild and "ragged " for seven miles, and canoes 
seldom venture to brave the perils of its navigation. 

Ten miles from the Kennebec Dam, on the opposite 
or east side of the lake, is Spencer Bay, which extends 
northeast four miles from narrows of the same name. 
Into its upper end empty Spencer Brook and Roach 
River. The latter stream flows some six or seven miles 
from 

ROACH POND, 

and is rapid, rocky, and hard to navigate. A road 
lies on the right bank. The better way to reach the 
pond is by road from Lily Bay. A tavern stands on 
the shore of Lily Bay, near the mouth of North Brook. 
From here to Roach Pond is seven miles, and to 
Greenville, thirteen. A buckboard can be procured at 
the Lily Bay House to haul one to Ray's, at the out- 
let of Roach Pond, where there is a substantial hotel 
with all the comforts which care and attention can pro- 
vide in this isolated region. The ride is rather rough, 
and occupies about two hours and a half. At the dam 
in the river, near the hotel, and in pools below the 
dam, and also at the upper end of the pond, good 
trout-fishing is to be had. From the mouth of South 
Brook on the east side a good logging-road leads two 
miles southerly to Big Lyford (sometimes called Little 
Pleasant) Pond, passing around its west side to the 
south where it branches, one fork leading down the 
West Branch of Pleasant River to the Gulf, and 
the other leading northerly to Big Lyford dam, thence 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 49 

easterly two miles to the West Branch Ponds. These 
latter lie close under the main peak of White Cap, and 
the fisherman may be sure of good sport here. With 
an early start from Roach Pond one can visit these 
secluded ponds and return comfortably the same day, 
allowing three or four hours for rest and recreation. 
There are plenty of trout in Big Lyford Pond, although 
they are not very large, and report speaks well in this 
respect of the Little Lyford Ponds, some five miles 
lower down the river. 

The road from Roach Pond to Big Lyford runs in 
the opposite direction along Roach Pond, crosses 
North Brook a mile and a quarter from its mouth, and 
turning west follows the town-line for nearly four miles 
until it joins the Lily Bay road just east of Ray's. 

The "South Lilet" is for three-eighths of a mile a 
broad and sluggish stream, running through a bog 
where the trees have been killed by high water, an in- 
viting locality for ducks and larger game. From this 
end of the pond Kokadjo and Sabohtawan, the latter, 
not now the rounded peak it seems to be from Moose- 
head Lake, but a long ridge running nearly east and 
west and terminating on the east in a precipitous bluff, 
are conspicuous on the north, and White Cap with 
its threefold summit bounds the line of sight on the 
south. From the " North Inlet," in addition to White 
Cap, may be seen Baker Mt. and many peaks of the Lily 
Bay group. This is, on the whole, the most attractive 
part of the pond, except for out-door camping facilities, 
which are not of the best. A good log-camp, however, 
just above the mouth of the brook, is not altogether 
uninviting, and the brook itself, winding through a 



50 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

boggy meadow, is an acquisition which may outweigh 
other disadvantages of location. Up this brook for 
nearly a mile and a quarter the water is sluggish and 
fairly deep. Beyond that point it becomes more rapid 
and shallow, and canoe navigation for the remaining 
two miles is, in ordinary seasons, a matter of some diffi- 
culty. At high water, however, a canoe can be poled 
up to the Second Pond. 

The brook between Second and Third Ponds is only 
two and a half miles long, and is rather easier to navi- 
gate than the other. From a small mountain back of 
Shaw Farm fine views can be had of Penobscot, Second, 
Third, and Fourth Roach Ponds, and Trout Pond. 

Roach Pond is about five miles long. 

SPENCER POND 

empties through Spencer Brook, two miles, into the bay 
of the same name. In low water a canoe will have to 
be dragged up the brook, or carried over a good road, 
which lies to the west of it. At the western end of the 
pond, which is about a mile and a half in diameter 
and substantially round, is a bog where cranberries 
grow in profusion. The usual camping-ground is on 
the northeast side of the pond, diagonally across from 
the outlet, and about midway between the fishing 
grounds, — two small streams which come into the 
pond, one on the north, and the other at the southeast 
corner. The north brook is sometimes hard to find. 
Its outlet is concealed by several small grassy islands. 
A mile up the brook is Little Spencer Pond. Spencer 
Mountains lie to the east of the pond ; the nearer peak 
(Kokadjo, Kettle Mountain) rises abruptly almost from 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 5 1 

the shore, and is 3,035 feet high. Into Spencer Bay, 
on the west, empties a brook which comes from 

LUCKY POND. 

This Httle sheet of water is rather narrow, and about 
three quarters of a mile long. It is a boggy place, and 
good ground for deer and caribou. A canoe can run 
up the brook some distance in " dead " water, and one 
then steps out into the road which runs up the right 
side of the stream to the dam, where it crosses and 
goes around the pond. It is only about fifty rods from 
the head of the " dead " water to the pond, and little 
more than a mile from the latter to the lake. 

Six miles from Capen's Landing on Deer Island the 
steamer passes Hog Back and Sand Bar Islands on 
the left, and as it approaches its goal the indistinct 
cluster of bright buildings at the foot of Mount Kineo 
is more easily separated into its component parts. 
Two miles from Sand Bar, Moody Islands are passed, 
on the right, and after two miles more the boat steams 
into the cove just east of the hotel, and is soon moored 
to its wharf. 

MOUNT KINEO, 

the most imposing mountain in the neighborhood, is 
midway up the lake, and, connected with its eastern 
shore by a narrow neck of land, forms quite a promon- 
tory. It is 763 feet above the level of the lake, or 
1,758 feet above sea-level. A sheer precipice on the 
south and east sides, it falls away less abruptly towards 
the west, and slopes gradually to the north, affording 



52 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

at its base very good farming land. On this slope, at 
Hard-Scrabble, is raised, each year, a considerable 
quantity of grain and hay, on which the Kineo House 
stock is fed. 

The eastern cliff of the mountain hangs over Kineo 
Bay. Its perpendicular height above the water is over 
seven hundred feet, and the lake near its base is 231 
feet deep. 

From the chff, skirting around northeast, runs a 
very pretty beach, divided, by a stretch of rocky, 
wooded shore, into two parts, — Cliff Beach, less than 
a mile from the hotel, and Pebble Beach, a mile and a 
half from it. From Table Rock off Cliff Beach, a few 
yards from shore, good fishing may be had late in the 
season. In fact, good fishing may be had, from canoes, 
all around Kineo Bay, and all the way around the 
mountain. 

The south cliff is inaccessible except in one place 
near the western end, up a rift in the rock, where a 
flight of broad stairs offers a safe foothold for a steep 
climb. The descent of the mountain by this route, to 
the hotel, can be made in half an hour. 

The ascent may also be made from the west corner 
of the mountain, — Kineo Point, — and necessitates a 
boat-ride of less than a mile from the " Three Sisters," 
— a group of pine-trees on the beach west of the hotel. 
Two and a half or three hours are enough to accom- 
plish the round trip comfortably, and the view one 
gets from the summit well repays the toil of climbing. 
A cool spring on the top furnishes refreshing drink to 
the thirsty. 

From a point on the water, between Kineo Point 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 53 

and the Three Sisters, and some distance further from 
shore than on the direct hne between them, may 
be seen a good profile, on the southeast comer of the 
mountain. 



LEGEND. 

The legend of Kineo, as formerly given in these pages, is 
now omitted, because the writer has been unable to find any 
familiarity with or confirmation of it among the Maine Indians 
of to-day. The word " Kineo " is said to mean " high bluff," 
and if this meaning is correct, the mountain can certainly never 
have been named by the Indians from one of their chieftains, 
but rather the reverse would be more likely. Kineo Mountain 
seems to have been connected early in the imagination of the 
red men with the moose, for we find the lake spoken of as 
" Moose-parun" (m), from a " remarkable mountain . . . the 
Indians say it resembles a moose-deer stooping." * From the 
promontory south of Kineo the mountain certainly does look 
not unlike the outline of a stooping or reclining moose, facing 
towards the west. 

A more credible legend makes this part of Moosehead Lake 
the scene of a great hunting exploit. A mighty warrior, or 
medicine-man, is on his way through the forests, when he spies 
two moose. He throws off his pack (Sabohtawan, the more 
easterly of the two Spencer peaks) and gives chase. The 
smaller moose (Kineo Mountain) is finally killed. The hunter, 
after having cooked and eaten of its flesh, turns his kettle 
upside down (Kokadjo, the more westerly of the Spencer 
peaks) in order that it may not rust, and takes up the trail of 
the other moose. 

The Abnaki name for Moosehead Lake is said to be " Sebay- 
gook." The Penobscots called it"Xsebem" Each of these 
words designates a large body of water (Sobagoo, Abnaki, 
" the ocean ") 

• Hugh Finlay's Journal, published in 1867 at Brooklyn by F. H. Norton. 



54 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 



THE MT. KINEO HOUSE. 

The first hotel at Kineo was built by Capt. Joshua Fogg in 
1848. The property passed successively through the hands of 
Wm. C. and Henry T. Hildreth, brothers, and Homan Rowell, 
and was for many years, then and subsequently, under the 
management of H. G. O. Barrows. In the early part of 1856 
the Kineo tract, including the mountain, came into the posses- 
sion of the late W. W. Chenery, who held it until his death. 
On January i, 1S61, John R. Crocker succeeded Mr. Barrows 
as manager, and in this year some eight thousand dollars were 
spent in enlarging and improving the hotel. It was two stories 
and a half high, had forty bedrooms, a dining-room to seat 
fifty-six people, a billiard-room, large office, and parlor. On 
the 1st of January, 1S68, O. A. Dennen became manager for 
Mr. Chenery, and on the 17th of February following the house, 
which stood on the site of the present hotel, was burned to the 
ground. In the spring of the same year the old bowling-alley 
was made to serve as a hotel, on ground east of the site of the 
original house. It received additions in 1869, a tower in 1870 
in 187 1 a parlor extension on the east end and an additional 
story between this part and the tower. In 1872 the old bowl- 
ing-alley was removed and a new dining-room built. In 1S76 
an annex and boat-house were added, and in 18S0 and 1881 
further additions were made to the main house. On October 
29, 1882, the entire complex of buildings, save the barn, was 
destroyed by fire. The same autumn a small building, the 
winter hotel, was erected, followed, the next spring, by the 
guide-house and a saw-mill. During the summer the present 
annex was begun, and completed in five weeks, and in July 
work was commenced on the present hotel, which was opened 
on the 29th of July, 1884. 

The present Mt. Kineo House is one of the finest 
country hotels in Maine. It is owned by a stock 
company, and is still under the management of Mr. 
Dennen, who has succeeded in giving it a fore- 



I 







1 




Ml-. KIN'F.O — TAI'.LK ROCK. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 55 

most position among hotels of its kind. It is heated 
by steam, hghted with gas, has fire-escapes, electric 
bells, bath-rooms, and all the conveniences and equip- 
ments of a first-class hotel. A telegraph line connects 
Kineo with the outer world, and there is a daily mail 
to and from Greenville and points beyond. 

Walking, boating, bowling, tennis, and billiards are 
the principal pastimes of its guests. Besides the walks 
to Cliff and Pebble Beaches, which lead partly through 
pasture lands and partly through woods, and the climb 
up the mountain, there is little walking to be done. 
• About three quarters of a mile from the Three Sisters, 
southwest, and off Birch Point, is a buoy, kept well 
baited in summer, where white-fish and "lakers" of 
considerable size are often caught. In nearly the 
same direction, a little more westerly, and a mile and 
a half from the Three Sisters, is the mouth of Moose 
River, properly the Kennebec. Up the river for a 
mile and a half the water is " dead," and offers a pretty 
morning or afternoon excursion. 

The paddle or sail around the mountain — six miles 
— is somewhat more of an undertaking, but enjoyable. 
A small boat is usually to be found on Cliff Beach, 
which parties who walk over the neck can use, to row 
under the cliff, — perhaps a good substitute for a pad- 
dle around the mountain. 

In the other direction, east, one can paddle a quarter 
of a mile to Little Gull Rock, a mile and a quarter to 
Big Gull Rock, and two miles and a half to Cowen's 
Cove. The latter is principally noted for the abundance 
of frogs which live in the grassy land at its head. In 
the same direction, on the shore beyond Little GuU 



56 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

Rock is a miniature pond, separated from the lake by a 
strip of land a few feet wide, and at its upper end is a 
cranberry-bog. This is the narrowest part of the neck. 

Moody Islands, two miles south of the hotel, furnish 
at times good deep-water fishing, and are very attractive 
as picnic-grounds. 

Guests of the Mount Kineo House, who go into 
camp for a few days, can have their rooms locked 
up during their absence, and are provided with pro- 
visions for the excursion. These include all the usual 
articles of camp-fare, such as pork, potatoes, flour, 
baking powder, hard bread, butter, sugar, coffee, tea, 
salt, pepper, and the like, but no canned goods. No 
reduction is made on the bills of persons who go in 
this way. The alternative is to give up one's room, 
buy one's provisions, and trust to good fortune to 
secure a room on one's return. 

Connected with the hotel at Kineo is a store, where 
all staple articles of food, and some luxuries, can be 
bought. The prices asked are just enough above 
retail prices at Greenville, or anywhere else, to cover 
the extra cost of transportation, and to leave a small 
margin for profit. 

Fishing tackle of good quality can be bought or 
hired of the superintendent of the hotel. 

It is to be hoped that the conservative spirit domi- 
nant thus far at Kineo, among its habitues, will still 
continue to shape its customs of plain dress and reason- 
able hours of rising and retiring. Gentlemen can live 
in woollen shirts, and appear in them at all times, with- 
out giving offence or appearing discourteous, while 
ladies are not obliged to make a change of toilet for 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 57 

each meal. It must be confessed, however, that Sara- 
toga trunks and fine dresses, which in former years 
were conceded to be out of place here, are of late 
unfortunately on the increase. Ladies that have little 
or no sympathy with camp life, and spend the summer 
at the hotel, may perhaps be pardoned this attempt to 
introduce fashion hito the wilderness. It is fair to 
presume, however, that fashion's exactions will never 
succeed in putting an end to the long-established 
freedom of Kineo. 

Besides the short excursions by water, already noted, 
one can paddle, or go by steamer, about three miles 
south of the hotel, to the 

WEST OUTLET. 

Much less water passes out of the lake here than at the 
other outlet, and consequently the stream, which runs 
nine miles to Indian Pond, is rapid, shallow, and rocky, 
except where broken by ponds. Of these there are 
eight or nine. The first lies within twenty-five rods of 
the lake, and is hardly more than a " logon." A like 
distance beyond the first is the second pond, which is a 
mile long and half as wide. The third is a small round 
pond, or perhaps more properly only a stretch of " dead " 
water in the stream. Beyond it, half a mile from num- 
ber two, is number four, twenty-five rods wide and half 
a mile long. Twenty rods more bring one into num- 
ber five, which is half a mile long and nearly as wide. 
The sixth lies twenty rods beyond, is round and deep, 
and has a rocky shore. The seventh is three quarters 
of a mile from number six, and is a mile long and 
about half as wide. At its foot used to be a dam, at 
Bodfish Falls. Canoes can be "dropped" over the 



58 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

ledges here, which together are about six feet high. 
The mouth of Churchill Stream is just below the falls, 
and one must paddle up it a mile and a half to the dam, 
where the best fishing is to be found. 

A mile below Churchill Stream is a stretch of " dead " 
water, by some called the " Alder Ground," and by 
others Long Pond. It is a mile and a half long, and 
perhaps thirty rods wide. A short distance below it is 
Round Pond, the last of the series, and one of the 
largest, above which, on the left, at the mouth of a 
small brook, trout are to be found. It is a mile and a 
half or more from Round Pond into Indian Pond. 



BRASSUA LAKE 

lies to the west of Moosehead, and its lower end is due 
west of Kineo. One goes up Moose River for a mile 
and a half, through " dead " water, to a small island, 
opposite which non-working members of a party take 
to the path on the north side, while the canoes push up 
the stream two and a half miles, through rapid water, to 
the lake. The worst places are the dam, and Sam's 
Pitch, a few rods above it. At the former it is well for 
the inexperienced canoe-man to get out and draw his 
boat up by the "painter " ; at the latter promptness of 
action only is needed. 

Brassua Lake is six or seven miles long, and from 
one to two wide. At its southwest corner, opposite 
the outlet, is the mouth of Miseree Stream, once, and 
even now, a good fishing-ground. It is navigable for 
only a short distance. The favorite camp-grounds 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 59 

have always been on the south shore of the Lake. Into 
its northeastern end empties 



BRASSUA STREAM, 

quite a pretty httle river, and which, with the exception 
of a short stretch of rapids two miles from the mouth, 
is navigable for three or four miles. In a Httle pond 
above the rapids, and in the stream beyond, are good 
feeding-grounds for ducks. Just below the rapids are 
good trout-holes and fair camping sites. 

Midway up the lake, and flowing into it from the 
west, is 

MOOSE RIVER 

again. About two miles of smooth, deep water bring 
one to the mouth of Tom Fletcher Brook, a good fish- 
ing-ground, named after a trapper who was drowned in 
the rapids up the river. Report says he was trapping 
in the woods with two companions, and, at the close of 
the season, returned alone to camp one day, took all 
the fur, and hurried down stream with it. The judg^ 
ment of Heaven seems to have overtaken him, for his 
body was soon found some miles below camp, and was 
buried at the mouth of the brook. 

A short distance above this spot the river widens and 
forms Litde Brassua Pond. Here are a number of 
grass-islands, which afford play-ground to muskrats and 
hiding-places to ducks. 

From this point it is a mile and a lialf — rai)id 
water — to Rolling Dam Ledge, thence two miles to the 



6o MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

mouth of Stony Brook, where there is a difficult pitch, 
and two miles more to the dam. Between the dam 
and a point half a mile below Stony Brook the stream 
is full of rapids and pitches, and usually one will do 
well to " carry " the entire distance (left bank). Be- 
tween the dam and the outlet of Long Pond it is two 
miles. Several rips and some shallow places may give 
the canoe-man trouble. At Demo Rips, half a mile 
above the dam, the canoe can be hauled up or let down 
by the painter. 

LONG POND 

is some ten miles long, and of irregular shape. Its 
shores are attractive to the camper-out, and afford some 
very pleasing glimpses of landscape, with mountains in 
the background. Seven miles of a winding and sub- 
stantially smooth water-course lie between Long Pond 
and Wood Pond, although it is only four miles by land 
from one to the other. Moose River Bridge is half a 
mile below the latter pond, and over it passes the 
Canada Road.* 

TOMIIEGAN RIVER 

empties into a cove about six miles from Kineo, on 
the west side of Moosehead Lake. It is an interesting 
stream, and well repays a visit. About two miles from 
the mouth, or perhaps less, are some " rips," above 
which " dead " water reappears for a time, and open 

* The description of Moose River above Wood Pond will 
be found in another place. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 6 1 

alder-land soon takes the place of dark, overhanging 
banks. A canoe will have to be carried around these 
"rips." Fishing can be had at the mouth, and in pools 
near it. From the " rips " a good road runs, some 
seven miles, up the left bank of the stream to the pond, 
around whose shores great quantities of cranberries 
grow. 

Four miles from Tomhegan, and about seven north- 
west from Kineo, in an extensive bay, is the mouth of 



SOCATEAN RIVER, 

one of the prettiest streams that empty into the lake. 
Its water near the mouth is without perceptible current, 
black, and apparently deep, and its banks are sprinkled 
with graceful hackmatacks, and fringed with bright- 
hued grass, mingling, at the water's edge, with lily- 
pads. 

Four miles up the stream are the Falls and Pool, 
formerly a favorite resort for camping parties, but not 
so popular since the ravaging fire which ran through 
the forest there several years ago. Fishing is good 
at the mouth, and here and there up the stream, es- 
pecially above the Pool and at the upper Falls, which 
are three miles from it. A good road runs up the east 
side of the stream. 



DUCK COVE, 

on the east shore of the lake, midway between Kinco 
and the Northeast Carry, and about ten miles from 
the former, lies under the shadow of Eagle Mountain, 



62 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

which is shaped very much like Kineo. At a distance 
it resembles it so much as to be called by some people 
" Little Kineo," a name applied by many of the old 
setders exclusively to the larger mountain east of the 
Shaw farm. Back of it, and on an open road half a 
mile long, is a pond, where of late years fishing has 
been good. The road begins on the south side of the 
brook. 

Baker Brook, in a deep cove just above the mouth 
of Moose River, Moose Brook, above Socatean Point, 
and WilHams Stream, opposite Centre Island, — all of 
them on the west side of the lake, — afford more or 
less fishing, but the "catch " is apt to be small in size, 
if not in numbers. 

The lake, after growing wider near Kineo, narrows 
again at Socatean Point, between which and Farm 
Island is a stretch of water known as the Devil's Blow- 
hole. The wind is ever contrary here, causing " chop- 
waves " in profusion, and is consequently annoying to 
canoe-men. From this point Bald Mt. looms up con- 
spicuously on the west. On the east the Spencer peaks 
slowly rise into prominence from behind Little Kineo, 
while north of them are Lobster and Eagle Mountains. 
Looking south, Kineo slowly assumes a foreshortened 
appearance, — on its right being Blue Ridge and on 
its left the Squaw Mt. range. Mt. Bigelow's sharp 
peak rises far to the west of Blue Ridge. From oppo- 
site Duck Cove ghmpses may be had of Soubungy 
and the Nesowadnehunk Mts., and from a point nearer 
the head of the lake, as well as from the west of Farm 
Island, Mt. Ktaadn comes into full view. 




SOCATEAA lAl,i,-> AM) 



I'OUL 



TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 



NORTHEAST CARRY. 

A SMALL hotel stands on the shore of Moosehead 
Lake, at the end of the Northeast Carry, and affords 
comfortable accommodation and good fare to a limited 
number of guests. In the summer season steamers, in 
their rounds of the lake, touch here regularly once a 
day, at other seasons twice a week. 

Tourists can have canoes (luggage included) hauled 
over the carry, two miles, to the Penobscot, for a dollar 
and a half each. There are two teams to be had, one 
at the hotel, and the other from Luce's farm, at the 
other end of the carry. Each team can take four 
canoes and their luggage at a load. The road rises 
gradually towards the middle from each end, and is 
pretty level, but wet and muddy after a rain. 

At the farther end of the Carry is a United States 
postoffice in charge of Mr. George C Luce, who has 
fitted up and refurnished his house for the comfortable 
entertainment of guests. 



64 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 

WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT, GOING 
DOWN FROM NORTHEAST CARRY. 

Recent measurements of the road from the N. E. 
Carry to Chesuncook Lake make the distance 21 miles 
and some rods, inclusive of the carry. From Luce's (the 
old Morris farm) the distance by road to Chesuncook 
is therefore about 19 miles, and as the road is more 
direct than the stream, the distance by the latter is 
greater than heretofore supposed. This stretch of 
river may be divided and characterized as follows : — 

N. E. Carry to Lobster Stream (dead water) . . 2^ m. 

Lobster Str. to Little Island (current and rips) . 2j^ m. 
Little Island to Moosehorn Str. (dead water) . .4 m. 

Moosehorn to Sears's Clearing (on the right) . . 2 m. 

Sears's to Ragmuff Stream (on the left) . . . . j^ m. 

Ragmuff to head of Big Island i^ m. 

Big Island to Fox Hole K "^• 

Fox Hole to head of Rocky Rips 3 m. 

Head of Rocky Rips to foot of Pine Stream Falls 2^ m. 

Foot of Pine Stream Falls to Chesuncook Lake . 2]/^ m. 

21^ m. 

Between Moosehorn Stream and the foot of Pine 
Stream Falls there is comparatively little still water. 
By the road, which is quite good and lies on the right 
bank, it is 3K rn. from the head of Big Island to Pine 
Stream, and from here to the head of Chesuncook 
Lake 2K ni. farther. 

Go to the right of Big Island, at the head of which, 
for a few rods, the river is rather shallow, but, except 
in dry seasons, there is dejDth enough to carry at least a 
canoe and luggage safely through to Fox Hole. Here 
the channel turns sharply to the left, lying within two 
feet or less of the left bank, and soon deepens again. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 65 

From the head to the foot of Rocky Rips is, per- 
haps, a full mile. Looking back from below them, 
when the river is at its ordinary summer height, no 
water can be seen in it at all, so thickly is its bed 
sprinkled with rocks and boulders. 

A short stretch of "dead" water, containing several 
small grass-islands, separates Rocky Rips from Pine 
Stream Falls, the worst place in this part of the river. 
There are three principal " pitches," or falls, followed 
by perhaps three quarters of a mile of strong rapids. 
The writer's experience has been that it is better to go 
over the first pitch in the middle of the stream, then 
to the left over both the second and third pitches, but 
the height of the water at different times may make it 
expedient to change this course. In very high water, 
an easy passage by all tliree pitches may be found 
close to the left bank. 

Rounding a bend about a mile below the rapids, 
one comes upon a huge pier in the river, and at 
about the same time bursts upon one's sight the glo- 
rious Ktaadn group of mountains, twenty miles to the 
east. 

Fair camping-grounds may be found here and there 
along the river, a convenient one being just above 
Pine Stream Falls on the left bank, nearly opposite the 
mouth of Pine Stream. 

Of all the tributaries of the West Branch, passed in 
these eighteen miles. Lobster Stream is the only one 
navigable for any considerable distance, the water in 
it being deep enough to admit of easy passage to 
Lobster Lake, two and a half miles away, even in times 
of drouth. 



66 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

There is little fishing to be had on this route, except 
at Fox Hole, in a small inlet on the left, where there 
are supposed to be cold springs, and on the right and 
left among some small grass-islands above Rocky Rips, 
where there is quite a gravel- bar in the river. 

It takes, ordinarily, a little more than two hours to 
go from N. E. Carry to Aloosehorn, and from there to 
Chesuncook Lake from four to five hours more. 

LOBSTER LAKE 

{Feske-begatj '• branch of a dead-water") is con- 
nected with the Penobscot by a broad and sluggish 
stream whose current is often reversed, and fills the 
lake-basin to the extent of six or eight feet. The lake 
is elbow-shaped, and the north and northwest shores of 
its lower arm are flat and marshy, while those of the 
upper or southern arm are, for the most part, high and 
rocky. On the east side many ledges, often steep and 
difficult, jut out into the water, now and then enclosing 
charming reaches of sandy beach. An exceedingly 
pretty camp -ground is on the point south of Little 
Lobster Brook opposite a small island. From it can 
be seen Mt. Ktaadn and the Spencer peaks, while 
near at hand, and beyond the placid waters of West 
Cove, Lobster Mt. fills the view. From the head of 
West Cove, when the water is not low, a canoe can 
find passage-way into the main body of the lake, througli 
a series of pretty little coves, where pink-hued water- 
lilies grow in abundance. Across the south end 
of the lake extends a narrow strip of sand-beach on 
which blueberries thrive, while beyond it a low, flat 
tract of land extends almost to the foot of Spencer Mts. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 67 

The ascent of Sabohtdwan can be made in one clay, 
from the S. E. corner of the lake, part of the way by a 
road that leads up Duck Pond brook. 

CHESUNCOOK LAKE, 

" the biggest lake," a " bulge " in the Penobscot, as it 
has been properly called, is eighteen miles long, and 
from one to two miles vvide. It is without special attrac- 
tion, save the glorious view it offers of old Ktaadn. 

From five to six hours are usually consumed in pad- 
dling over it, which time is increased or diminished 
according to the direcdon of the prevailing wind. 
Meals and lodging are provided at Hilton's (now 
Smith's), at the head of the lake. (See Appendix.) 

MOOSE BROOK 

flows from a pond of the same name about two-thirds 
of a mile from the lake. Its water is dead, and a canoe 
can be taken up through it into Moose Pond, and from 
there " waded " through quick water three miles to 
Cussabexis Lake. Between Moose and Duck Ponds it 
is impossible for a canoe to go, other than by being 
carried three-quarters of a mile to the dam. This group 
of ponds is seldom visited by sportsmen, and little is 
known of their attractions in the way of fish and game, 
although by some said to be good. 

CARIBOU LAKE 

lies to the southwest of Chesuncook Lake, and is con- 
nected with it by a " thoroughfare " two miles long, at 
times partly rapid, and at its mouth covered with Hly- 



68 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

pads, and makes a good feeding-ground for ducks. 
The lake is seven miles long. Its shores are in places 
high and not unattractive. Several streams empty into 
it, in which there is some fishing to be had early in 
the autumn. (See Appendix.) 

RIPOGENUS LAKE. 

At the lower end of Chesuncook Lake the river 
narrows again for half a mile, flows over a succession 
of falls, and again widens into Ripogenus Lake. At 
Chesuncook dam, and in pools below it, good trout are 
often taken, and occasionally a salmon. 

The carry lies several rods south of the dam, and is 
a good solid road. Owing to the higher level of the 
water since the erection of the new Ripogenus Dam, 
canoes may be put into the stream at the end of half a 
mile, whereas formerly one had to carry a quarter of a 
mile further, to the lake. From and at the head of 
Ripogenus Lake begins a series of views of Mount 
Ktaadn and the Neesowadnehunk range, which fairly 
enchant the lover of nature. Ever shifting as one 
moves on, now hidden by forest or intervening ridge, 
now bursting suddenly forth again in greater majesty, 
old Ktaadn's silent and more vivid presence excites 
our awe and commands our admiration. 

Ripogenus Lake is two miles long and a mile or 
more broad. It is a favorite camp-ground for tourists 
going down the river, and, aside from the picturesque- 
ness of its situation, has quite an attraction in the 
wildness of the river at its foot. 

There is a cold spring in a cove on the south shore, 
near the outlet. 



I 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 69 



HARRINGTON LAKE. 

Into the northwest corner of Ripogenus Lake flows a stream 
of the same name, whose bed in summer ordinarily contains too 
little water for successful navigation. At high water, however, 
a canoe can be poled and dragged up, four miles, to Brighton 
Dam, with a possible portage around Island Falls and some 
rough places just above and just below them, about two miles 
up the stream. The bed of the stream above Island Falls is 
very ledgy, and lies along the strike of the highly inclined slate 
formation, so that great care must be taken not to cut one's 
canoe. 

An old road runs along the east, or left bank, of the stream. 
The road from Chesuncook Lake (four miles) strikes the stream 
below the dam, and one branch of it ends at the dam on the west 
side ; the other continues up the east side to Harrington Lake. 
The carry around the dam and rapids below it, forty rods, can 
be made on either side, the left being the easier. Camp sites 
may be found near the dam, but fire-wood is scarce. 

Brighton Dead-Water, when the gates of the dam are down, 
forms a pond nearly two miles long, its lower end lined and 
choked with driftwood. Into its northwest side empty the 
waters of upper Ripogenus Stream.* On the northeast it 
receives the waters of Harrington Lake. For two-thirds of a 
mile the stream from the latter is rapid and, in places, ledgy ; 
it then opens out into a shallow pond three-eighths of a mile in 
diameter ; above the latter for a quarter of a mile, shallow, 
rocky, and running, it leads into Harrington Lake. 

At high water one can go from Harrington Lake to 15righton 
Dam in less than an hour and a quarter, and from the end of the 
carry below the dam to the mouth of the stream in another 
hour. To come up the stream from its mouth poling and 
dragging a loaded canoe, may require a half day to the dam, 
and less than that from the dam to the lake. 

* There is a discrepancy on the map, but the writer does not know which 
is wrong, the stream or the pond. 



70 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 

Harrington Lake is about three miles long and one mile 
wide, and is almost surrounded by high land; the mountains 
at its east end lie within the Ktaadn granite area, and lend to 
the scenery a rugged picturesqueness. Mt. Ktaadn itself is 
not visible from the lake. 

There is a good camp-ground several rods back from the 
shore on Soper Brook. This stream joins the lake on the north, 
just east of a prominent ledge less than a mile from the out- 
let. A good road leaves the lake just west of the aforesaid 
ledge, and runs to the dam (if m.) at the foot of the lowest 
dead-water, which is three miles long. The road crosses here 
and runs up the east side of the stream, but, although generally 
traceable, it is in places hard to follow until after it has left 
the head of the dead-water. From that point for a mile and 
three-fifths it is good. The two upper dead-waters are short 
{\ to \ m.), shallow, and narrow. In 1892 the writer went from 
the upper part of this stream, through the woods, to Neesowad- 
nehunk Lake, but the route followed was four miles long and 
difficult. 

The lowest dead-water on Soper Brook has a bog on its west 
side that extends to the base of Soubungy Mount. The sum- 
mit of the latter, eight hundred feet above the dead-water, can 
easily be reached from the latter. The precipitous cliff on the 
south side is six hundred feet above the bog, and reminds one 
of Mt, Kineo, the rock being also like that of Kineo, por- 
phyritic. The ascent and descent may be made comfortably in 
two hours and a half. An interesting kame, beginning at the 
dam, runs along the dead-water, cut through by the latter at 
the great bend opposite Soubungy. 



WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT, BELOW 
RH'OGENUS LAKE 

The outlet of Ripogenus I>ake is ordinarily a narrow and 
deep gorge, where the water foams and hisses in its rapid course 
between walls of rock. After freshets, the river flows over a 




RlPtXiENUS GORGK- LOOKINC W KS I 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 



71 



broader channel to. the right, or south, of the entrance to the 
gorge, leaving quite a high and wooded island between the two. 
From this point, for a mile and a half, a good path runs along 
the river-bank, and enables one to get a fine view of perhaps 
the most wonderful, if not the most interesting, part of the 
Penobscot. Nearly the entire distance is a gorge with steep 
cliffs on either side, fifty or sixty feet high, in some places over- 
hanging the stream, and with isolated masses of precipitous 
rock between them, whose tops are level with the banks on 
either side, and covered, like them, with ferns and blueberry- 
bushes. The water seems to have worn away the rock and 
soil around these islands, giving them the shape of an old- 
fashioned flat-iron, whence they derive the names of Big and 
Little Heater. The river pitches through this gorge in a suc- 
cession of rapids, — none very high, but together making a fall 
of two hundred feet or more. 

The carry from Ripogenus begins at the lower end of the lake, 
to the right of the outlet. At the end of a mile one descends a 
short hill, and on the right can be seen from the road 



CARRY POND, 

which used to be famous for its trout. In the absence of 
canoes a raft formerly served indifferently to bear people 
across the pond to the spring-hole where the fish lay. This 
pond has been so thoroughly fished of late years, that its 
supplies may not now always prove equal to the demand made 
upon them. 

Half a mile from Carry Pond, on the road, is a large bowlder 
on the brow of a steep descent. It lies in the middle of a small 
clearing, and from its top one gets a wide prospect over the 
valley below, and a fine view of Ktaadn. 

At the foot of this steep descent, and beyond a small brook, 
a path turns off to the left and leads to the " putting-in place," 
two miles from Rii)ogenus Lake. Two-thirds of a mile more 
brings one to an old clearing forty-five rods above the " Arches," 
— another difficult and dangerous impediment in the river. 



72 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HEAD LAKE. 

From the Arches it is one hundred and ten rods to Big 
Eddy, the end of the carry. 

Canoes may take to the water again at the "put- 
ting-in place," but the stream below is dangerous, and 
there are three places where one has to lift over. 
Around one of them, the Arches, one must carry for 
thirty or forty rods on either bank. It is safer and 
more expeditious to carry over the whole three miles 
of road, than to attempt to run the river below the 
*' putting-in place." A brook, the outlet of Carry Pond, 
empties into the river at the last-named point; the path 
to the latter crosses it twice after leaving the main road. 

Once fairly embarked below the carry one glides 
easily down stream through rapid water, lifting over 
one rocky pitch, and at the end of two miles or less 
reaches Gulliver Pitch, or Ambajemackomus Falls. 
The carry is about one hundred rods long, and begins 
at the foot of a steep descent in the river-bed, in a 
very rocky bend on the right. 

Below Gulliver Pitch begins the dread " horse-race," 
which extends for a mile and a half, to within a third of 
a mile of dead water. The river is impetuous, and its 
bed ledgy, refusing setting-pole hold. On all sides 
are dangerous rocks to be avoided, which call forth the 
canoe-man's skill, and put his nerve to the test. With 
care, however, one can run these rapids in safety, and 
will soon find himself in 

NEESOWADNEHUNK DEAD-WATER, 

a pretty little lake surrounded by growths of beech, 
birch, maple, and oak, with almost no fir nor spruce. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 73 

It is a mile and a half long, and from its lower end one 
has a fine view of Ktaadn to the east, and a pretty but 
less pretentious picture to the west. 

A good path follows the river on the right bank, to 
within fifty rods of the head of the dead-water, just 
above which its course lies along the top of a kame forty 
rods long and thirty feet high. There is a good spring 
on the right bank, at the foot of the " horse-race." 

Leaving Nees-ow-ad-ne-hunk (corrupted to Sourd- 
nahunk) Dead-Water, a short run brings one to the 
carry of the same name, on the left. Care should be 
taken not to overlook and run past it, as the stream 
immediately beyond looks smooth, and a canoe once 
in the current might easily be swept along and over the 
falls (five feet), with serious consequences. Just below 
the carry, which is thirty-five rods long, over granite 
ledges, there is a good spring. Half a mile below the 
falls is the mouth of Neesowadnehunk Stream, below 
which for two miles one finds good canoeing, through 
" dead " water, to the mouths of Aboljackarmegas, and 
Aboljackarmegassic, or Sandy Stream.* At this point 
parties usually camp who intend to make the 

ASCENT OF MOUNT KTAADN. 

From a short distance up Sandy Stream — the more 
easterly brook — the path runs four or five miles over 
intervening ridges to the base of the mountain ; the 
ascent thence continues up the slide on the southwest 
side of the mountain. It is perhaps less fatiguing to 
leave one's camp on the river bank early in the after- 
noon, with blankets, axe, and enough food for two 

*For additional notes, see Appendix, 1S93. 



74 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

days, — as light a load as possible, — and camp that 
night at the foot of the slide, or at the brook about a 
mile from it. With an early start the next morning, 
one can in three hours climb up the slide (at an angle 
of nearly forty degrees) to the broad table-land, near 
the top of the mountain, — about three miles. 

Here will be found, under and at the sides of several 
large rocks, springs or pools of water, cool, but of indif- 
ferent taste. There is said to be another and better 
spring part way up the slide, and to the east of it. As 
one ascends the mountain, vegetation becomes stunted, 
and disappears almost altogether just before the table- 
land is reached. A thick bed of dry moss covers the 
table-land, and a few dead and snarly roots scattered 
over it furnish scanty fuel to those who wish to make 
a cup of tea, or to warm themselves. The summit of 
the mountain is about a mile east of the springs, and 
the ascent to it is gradual and easy. A flat surface of 
not more than twenty feet in diameter forms the west- 
ern peak. To the west of it Hes the table-land. On 
the east, perhaps a quarter of a mile, is another peak, 
said to be ten feet lower than the first. Between the 
two is a ridge so narrow, that ojie step towards the north 
would send one into eternity over a sheer precipice 
hundreds of feet high. On the south side, the moun- 
tain, although not so precipitous, is exceedingly steep, 
and a misstep might result in as certain, though not so 
quick, a death. When the wind blows with any consid- 
erable force, one can cross from peak to peak only by 
creeping. From the eastern peak a spur of the moun- 
tain runs northeast for some distance, and has appar- 
ently the same general characteristics as the ridge just 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 75 

described. It is known as Pamela, named after the 
dread Indian deity formerly supposed by the natives 
to dwell on the mountain. Surrounded by these walls 
and on the west by a continuation of the main body of 
the mountain which extends north from the table-land, 
is a deep basin which contains several small ponds, the 
water from one of which oozes through the granite 
boulders, for some distance out of sight, until it gushes 
forth as clear as crystal and as cold as ice. This pond 
for a long time was vulgarly supposed to be practically 
fathomless, but, hke many other "good stories," its 
fabled depth has been reduced by actual measurement 
to its just proportions, 1 7 feet.* This Basin Pond is, 
according to Prof. Hamlin, 2,287 ^^^^ below the summit 
of West Peak, the altitude of which above sea-level is, 
according to Prof, Fernald, 5,248 feet, latitude 45° 53' 
40", longitude 68° 54' 50". 

On a clear day, it is said, one can see from the top 
of Ktaadn several hundred distinct and separate pieces 
of water. Millinokett Lake and Ktaadn Pond are 
perhaps the prettiest bodies of water near at hand. 

Parties who go up the mountain should be provided 
with extra warm clothing, as the change of temperature 
from below is apt to be very marked, and sometimes 
severe. At other times, however, the sun seems hotter 
on top than at the bottom of the mountain, but this 
is very exceptional. Ladies have climbed Ktaadn, 
but only the strongest can do it. 

* See " Observations upon the Physical Geography and Geol- 
ogy of Mt. Ktaadn," &c., by C. E. Hamlin, Cambridge. Printed 
for the Museum, June, 1881. Also "Routes to Ktaadn," by 
same author in Appalachia for December, 18S1. 



76 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

From the summit to the foot of the slide one can descend in 
an hour and a half, and from the latter point to the river in two 
hours and a half more. The Basin may be reached by way of 
the " saddle," north of the table-land. 

Half a mile above the mouth of Abol. Stream, on the oppo- 
site side, is an island (at low water probably not entirely sur- 
rounded by water). Behind it there is a small grassy pond. 
Five-eighths of a mile below this island and at the head of 
the /^//^ carry around Abol. Rapids — just below the first rips — 
on the right bank of the river and within a stone's throw of 
it, there is another small pond. 

The carry past Abol. Rapids and Falls is about one hundred 
and twenty-five rods long, on the right bank. When the river 
is not too high the rapids can be navigated safely. The carry 
around the falls is twenty-eight rods. There is cold water at 
the lower end of the carry. 

From Abol. Falls it is about a mile to the carry around Pock- 
wockamus Falls, on the right bank. There are two rough 
places in the river here, — the upper one can be navigated 
when the water is not too high ; the lower one is full of bowl- 
ders, and very rough. The entire carry is a hundred and 
twenty rods long, the part around the lower falls thirty-six rods. 
At its upper end the path is fanly good ; the lower end is very 
rocky. 

Pockwockamus Dead-Water is about three miles long. Imme- 
diately at its foot, on the right, begins the carry around Kateps- 
konegan (corrupted to Debsconeak) Falls, which is very good, 
and ninety-five rods long. Below it for half a mile the stream 
is narrow, and there are some rips in it. The dead-water then 
broadens out into the dimensions of a lake. This and Pock- 
wockamus Dead- Water are very attractive, not only in their 
own immediate charms of sand beaches, islands, and the varied 
and graceful vegetation of their shores, but in the fine views 
they afford of Ktaadn and the Nccsowadnchunk Mts. 

Just above the outlet of Katcpskonegan Dead-Water, on the 
east side, is the carry around Passamagamock (Pesconga- 
moc '') Falls, thirty-two rods long Below the carry the river 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 77 

is rapid for a short distance. Pescongamoc Pond, on the right, 
lies within twenty rods of the river. 

From here it is about a mile and a half to Ambajejus carry 
(on the left), just above which the river narrows. The carry 
is one hundred rods long, and steep at its lower end. The 
main channel in the river passes to the east around an island 
below the carry, over a short stretch of rapid water. Passa- 
magamock Falls, and possibly Ambajejus Falls, may be navi- 
gated at low water. Ambajejus Lake, whose shores are covered 
with crumbling granite blocks and coarse sand derived from 
them, shows the effects of Howage, and is rather bleak and 
cheerless in comparison with the dead-waters higher up the 
stream. 

At the lower end of Ambajejus Lake, on a point on the right, 
is the so-called Ambajejus House, used by river-drivers in the 
spring. 

About ten miles of paddling through Ambajejus, Pamedum- 
cook, and North Twin Lakes bring one to the dam at the foot 
of the latter, where the river is crossed by the Bangor and 
Aroostook Railroad. The carry around the dam is on the 
left. It is less than twenty rods long. 

Below the dam for a mile the river is rapid to Quakish 
Lake. At the foot of this lake begins the upper end of the 
Fowler Carry. Sixty rods below here is the principal west- 
ern terminus of the carry. The river between is rapid, but 
navigable. 

The carry is about two miles long, and at Powers's, at the 
eastern end of it, a team can be hired to haul canoes and lug- 
gage across to Milnokett Stream. A mile of easy canoeing 
down this stream takes one into Shad Pond, the last "bulge" 
of any consequence on the river. Twelve miles of rapid 
water, accomplished in three hours, bring one to the mouth of 
the East Branch, whence it is twelve miles more to Mattawam- 
keag, where one takes the cars for Bangor 

By making the carry at Fowler's, one avoids twelve miles 
of very rapid water, and saves much time and labor. Grand 
Falls, on this part of the river, is about twelve or fifteen 



78 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

feet high, and can be visited most easily by paddling 
through Shad Pond and up the river for a mile and 
a half. 

To the lover of scenery, the tour down the West 
Branch offers perhaps more attractions than any other 
in that part of Maine. There are, to be sure, many 
carries to make, but the wildness of the river, the pic- 
turesqueness of the lakes within easy access of it, and 
the grandeur of Mount Ktaadn, which continually dis- 
covers some new feature, together form a combination 
of enjoyments seldom to be found. 

Chesuncook Lake to Dam 17m. 

Dam to Ripogenus Carry . 2%xa. 

Ripogenus Carry ........... 3m. 

Ripogenus Carry to Ambajemackomus Carry . ^Yzvsx. 

Ambajemackomus Carry to Abol. Stream . . 6j4m. 

Abol. Stream to Ambajejus Falls iim. 

Ambajcjus Falls to North Twin Dam . . . 14m, 

North Twin Dam to Shad Pond 5m. 

Shad Pond to Mattawamkeag 25m. 

A great deal of interest has been manifested of late 
upon the subject of the Indian nomenclature of falls 
and lakes which occur in the course of the Penobscot 
River, and of mountains which rise near its banks. In 
the first place, as to the relative position of a fall and 
"dead-water " of the same name, Thoreau says, "This 
is generally the order of names as you ascend the river. 
First, the lake, or, if there is no expansion, the dead- 
water ; then the falls ; then the stream emptying into 
the lake, or river above, all of the same name." * This 
* The Maine Woods, p. 46. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 79 

rule, or rather fact, seems, from the testimony of many 
of the Penobscot Indians, to hold good as far as Abol- 
jackarmegas Falls, although John Pennowit, one of 
the oldest hunters of the tribe, has told the writer that 
they had no distinctive names for most of the " dead- 
waters " referred to, and consequently they can have 
no order of designating them. Above Abol. Falls the 
so-called rule, by the same testimony seems to fail, for 
Nesowadnehunk Stream empties into the river hdow 
the falls of the same name, while the "dead-water" of 
that name is above the falls. 

" The biggest mountain " near the Penobscot is pro- 
nounced by the Indians as if written " Ktaadn " (from 
the inseparable adjectival kette or k't^ " greatest," and 
the inseparable generic, adene, " mountain "), and this 
spelling has been adopted by the best authorities as 
more nearly correct than the form " Katahdin." For 
" Sourdnahunk " the writer has substituted " Nesowad- 
nehunk," as agreeing more nearly with the Indian pro- 
nunciation. The latter spelling is used by Thoreau, 
and as the word is said to mean " stream flowing be- 
tween the mountains," one can detect the generic ade?ie 
better in the latter fonn than in the other, which consid- 
eration alone might well determine one's choice. 

One of the first forms, if not the very first published, 
ot the Indian name for the West Branch of the Penob- 
scot at Nickatow is given by Greenleaf as " Che-too- 
kook " or " Che-sun-kook." The form given the writer 
by John Pennowit is " Ket-tegwd-wick," from kctte, 
" greatest," /e^^Tce, "stream " (Rille), and luick, a form 
of the locative, " at the greatest stream." 

In another place the writer has published a list and 



So TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

explanations of the Indian names of places in that 
part of Maine covered by this little book. It should 
seem desirable to urge every one interested in the 
preservation of these relics of a decayed race to use as 
much as possible the ancient or Indian names, and 
thus help to reinstate them in place of the modern 
ones, which in many cases have neither force nor 
meaning. 

JO MERRY LAKES. 

There are three lakes in this chain, — West, South, 
and Big Jo Merry. The first, or West Jo Merry, lies 
southwest of the others, and is over half a mile from 
South Jo Merry. Canoes have to be carried across 
from one to the other. Between South and Big Jo 
Merry there is a thoroughfare of forty rods or more in 
length. At times the water in it is substantially " dead," 
— at others, quick. 

From Big Jo Merry to Pamedomcook Lake is a mile 
and a half or more, by the stream, which is partly 
navigable by canoes. A good road runs from one lake 
to the other near the stream. 

NAHMAKANTA LAKE 

is most easily reached from Pamedomcook Lake. 
The stream which connects the two is about seven or 
eight miles long, and for two or three miles is navi- 
gable. Canoes and luggage will have to be carried 
about four miles over the old carry-road, on the north 
side of the stream. The lake is a very attractive sheet 
of water some four miles long, and into its northern 
end flow two streams. The more easterly comes from 




MILUNOKKir l.AKK 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 



RAINBOW LAKE. 



and is four miles long, but, with the exception of 
several small ponds along its course, it has not enough 
water in ordinary seasons to make canoeing anything 
but a burden. A good road begins west of the mouth 
of the brook, soon crosses to the east side, and finally 
comes out at the foot of Rainbow Lake. It is better 
to " carry " over this road than to attempt to navigate 
the brook. If one follows up for two miles the other 
brook which empties into Nahmakanta Lake, one comes 
into Pollywog Pond, whence it is one-third of a mile 
to Wadleigh Pond, the connecting stream being very 
rapid. A road runs from Nahmakanta Lake across the 
southern slope of Suntabunt Mt. to Wadleigh Pond. 

MILLINOKETT LAKE 

is most easily reached from Ambajejus Lake, by a 
short carry which begins at the head of a grassy cove. 
The lake is very picturesque, and is studded with 
pretty islands, which, in combination with the glorious 
views of Ktaadn and surrounding mountains, make it 
a very attractive spot for artists. No trout are in its 
waters, and the brook which is its outlet is about 
twelve miles long and unnavigable. 



NORTHWEST CARRY. 

Carry Brook, a small stream in which abound sunken 
logs, stumps, and snags, empties into the northwest 
arm of Moosehead Lake, in its upper left-hand corner, 
6 



82 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

and to the left of the N. W. Carry hotel. Paddling up 
this brook for nearly a mile, to the head of navigation, 
one comes to a landing on the left bank, from which 
one reaches, a few yards distant, the direct road from 
the lake to Seeboomook Meadows. This road runs 
northwest, and for some distance covers the same 
ground as the Old Canada Road, which leads from 
Moosehead to Canada Falls, and beyond to Canada. 

From the landing to the meadows is a long mile and 
a half, the road being good, except after a rain, when 
the walking is soft. Some one prompdy appears at 
the landing with a horse and sled, if previously asked 
to do so, and hauls canoe and luggage across the carry, 
charging from a dollar and a half to two dollars per load. 

Seeboomook Meadows consist of a small tract of 
ground lying near the West Branch, and the pond which 
covers a part of it, from a quarter to three eighths of a 
mile in diameter, is connected with the river by a shal- 
low and narrow stream flowing northeasterly for a quar- 
ter of a mile from its east side. 

WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. — SEEBOO- 
MOOK FALLS. 

This part of the river is pretty difficult of navigation, 
and parties find it easier and shorter to be hauled across 
the Northeast and Northwest Carries, and to paddle 
over the lake between them, than to attempt to accom- 
plish the same distance on the river. A visit, however, 
to Seeboomook Falls is quite worth while, if one has the 
time. 

Just below the foot of Seeboomook Island are the first 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 83 

falls, past which, on the left, one must carry for a 
fifth of a mile. One mile and a half of good canoeing 
follow, — good except in one place, the Dam Pitch, 
where one must lift one's craft over. Then come the 
long falls. At high water one must carry at least three- 
quarters of a mile, in low water nearly double that dis- 
tance, the path being on the right. Some three miles 
below the rapids is the mouth of Russell Stream, and 
from there to the Northeast Carry, or Luce farm, is 
two miles more. Seeboomook Falls is a wild and 
dangerous place, and the dread of log- drivers on the 
Upper Penobscot. 

RUSSELL STREAM 

is rather small, and for five miles out of six and a half 
to the pond, rapid ; but a canoe can be worked up its 
channel slowly, or one can be hauled in to the pond 
by a team from Luce's. Russell Pond used to be good 
moose and caribou ground. 

ELM STREAM 

can be reached by a road from the N. W. Carry, that 
terminates at a deep " logon " above and opposite its 
mouth. For nine miles the stream is usually navigable, 
partly through an alder-ground. The three miles next 
below the pond are very difficult, but a road on the 
left bank is good. 

WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT, GOING UP 
FROM NORTHWEST CARRY. 

Opposite the mouth of Seeboomook Stream, on See- 
boomook Island, is a good camp-ground. The river 
here is black and deep, a character it maintains for 



84 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HEAD LAKE. 

some eight miles above, as far as Swan's farm, and is 
in places very picturesque. 

A half-mile brings one to the head of the island, 
above which the river widens, and after two miles and 
a half more the upper, or artificial, mouth of Nelhudus 
Stream is reached ; the natural mouth is some rods 
below, and is generally impassable. Good fishing is to 
be had, late in the summer, in pools here and there 
among its windings. 

From the opposite or right bank of the river, just 
below Nelhudus, a good tote-road leads into the Old 
Canada Road, — it being about six miles from the 
river to Moosehead. 

From Nelhudus four and a half miles, past the ruins 
of Camp Pocahontas and around several sharp bends 
in the river, bring one to Swan's farm, on the left. 
On the high bank, along which at the west end of the 
clearing leads the path to Swan's " shanty," is a con- 
venient camping-ground, without, however, a very boun- 
tiful supply of good fire-wood. 

Above Swan's the river for half a mile is shallow and 
the current strong, rendering it necessary, in low water, 
to wade and to drag canoes. At the end of this half- 
mile is the first or lowest pitch of Gulliver Falls, be- 
tween which and the next pitch — a few rods — Gulli- 
ver Stream empties into the river on the right. The 
second pitch is at the foot of a small island, going to 
the left of which one soon passes up over the third 
pitch, — the head of the rapids. In moderately high 
water two men can take a loaded canoe up over these 
rapids without much difficulty ; but in low water resort 
must be had to the dragging process. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 85 

About three miles of deep " dead " water intervene 
between the head of GulHver Falls and the foot of Big 
Island, passing up the right side of which, three-fourths 
of a mile, to the head, one comes to open land, and to 
more shallow and in some places " strong " water. The 
passage around the left of the island is narrower, and a 
quarter of a mile longer. 

On the left, a few rods above the island, is the mouth 
of a "logon," pushing up which for forty rods a pool 
will be found encircled by lily-pads, where small trout 
are abundant. 

From Big Island a mile of paddling brings one to 
King's High Landing, where from ledges on the left 
there is also good fishing. From this point it is less 
than a mile to Cunningham's farm, at the forks of the 
North and South Branches, where a team can generally 
be had to haul canoes around Canada Falls. 

RESUME. 

N. W. Carry (Moosehead L.) to mouth Seeboomook Br'k, 3 m. 
Mouth of Seeboomook Brook to Nelhudus Stream . . 3I m. 

Nelhudus Stream to Swan's 4^1". 

Swan's to head of Gulliver Falls i^ ni. 

Gulliver Falls to head of Big Island 3l n^- 

Big Island to the Forks 2 m. 

It takes from five to six hours to go from Moose- 
head across the carry and up the river as far as Swan's, 
and from four to five hours from Swan's to the Forks. 
In low-water it may take the better part of a day to 
accomplish the latter distance. Green Mt. is visible 
from Seeboomook Meadows. 



86 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 



SOUTH BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

Leaving the forks, and ascending the South Branch 
(much narrower than the main river), a mile and a half 
of swift water over a bed of rocks, in places so thickly 
strewn as to render the passage of a canoe almost im- 
possible, bring one to the foot of Canada Falls. More 
or less wading will be found unavoidable over this stretch, 
except in high water, the worst part being immediately 
below the falls. The river here makes a very marked 
bend, having flowed for two miles and a half in almost 
a semicircle northwards, and then sweeping off at a 
sharp angle towards the east. Canada Falls consists of 
a succession of deep, narrow gorges, down and through 
which the water froths and roars. This part of the 
river is well worth seeing ; but to take through it a loaded 
canoe, by alternate dragging and carrying, will require 
the better part of a long day. It takes much less time 
to make the long carry — a mile and a half — over the 
Old Canada Road, which leaves the foot of the falls, 
runs up the steep bank, then southwest by south, and 
at the end of three eighths of a mile turns sharply to 
the right. A mile and a half over a good road, hard 
and dry except in one place, is a pleasant substitute for 
an all-day's journey along and through the river. Put 
in at a dam at the head of the falls, and after a long 
half-mile through a very rocky stream, and past one 
"pitch" where the "painter," or leading-rope, will 
be needed, another dam marks the place where smooth 
and deep water finally becomes a reahty. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 87 

On the left bank just above the foot of the falls, and 
again just above the head of the falls, cold-water brooks 
will be found. 

From the upper and larger dam it is half a mile to 
Bog Brook. Until well away from the dam, look out 
for large rocks just under water. 

Passing by Bog Brook, which seems to be the slug- 
gish outlet of a small bog about a quarter of a mile from 
the river, one paddles two miles, — the latter of which 
is around an ox-bow, — and bending sharply to the 
west, comes to the mouth of Alder Brook. Up the 
river, about a mile from here, is the mouth of Hale 
Brook, opposite which is a flat ledge projecting half- 
way across the stream, and below the ledge a deep pool, 
where trout of medium size abound. A good camp- 
ground Hes just over this ledge. It affords plenty of 
hard wood and good water, and the hunting-grounds 
of Alder Brook are conveniently near it. A " logon," 
a few rods up the river on the same side, is a favorite 
feeding-ground for ducks. A logging-camp back of 
the " logon " will afford dingy shelter to parties not 
provided with a tent, and cool brook-water is near at 
hand. A good road runs back from this camp to the 
Old Canada Road, which it joins about a mile from 
the river. 

A few rods above Hale Brook the character of the 
river banks changes, from a densely wooded to an 
open grassy elm-land, which character they maintain 
for a mile and a half. The sportsman's course is 
generally west ; and two miles from Hale Brook, the 
water begins to be shallow in places, over which wading 
and dragging may be necessary. A mile and a quar- 



«« TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

ter of this sort of navigation gives place to a mile 
of shallow, rock-strewn, '' dead " water separated into 
two stretches by a short interval of quick water, and 
then for two miles more follow a succession of pools 
alternating with gravel- and sand-bars, when the mouth 
of Penobscot Brook is reached. This small stream, 
about five feet wide, flows out of Penobscot Lake, 
several miles through swampy ground, is choked up 
with fallen trees, and is entirely unnavigable. Its vol- 
ume of water is about one fourth that of Bald Brook, 
which properly is the Penobscot, and should so be 
called. 

Above this point canoeing is out of the question, 
excepting, perhaps, immediately after a very heavy 
rain, when, by dint of energetic poling, a canoe might 
ascend this boulder-strewn stream to apiece of "dead" 
water and alder ground, a mile or more above the junc- 
tion of the two brooks. A tote-road, however, follows 
the stream, on its right bank, beginning three miles 
or more below Penobscot Brook, and becomes quite 
good a short distance above it. It crosses several 
ridges, and passes three decayed logging-camps, until, 
bearing off to the south, to the west of Bald Mountain, 
it finally joins the Canada Road in Sandy Bay town- 
ship. 

Penobscot Lake is best reached by taking to the Old 
Canada Road, and carrying canoe and load over it, 
from some point on the river near the road. The 
road, be it said, above the old camp near Hale Brook, 
has not been much used of late years, and is there- 
fore "grown up" in places. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 89 

RieSUMfi. 

Forks of North and South Branches to Canada Falls . Ij^m. 

Foot of Canada Falls to Upper Dam 2m. 

Upper Dam to Penobscot Brook lom. 

It takes about five hours to go from the Forks to 
the upper dam, and from six to seven hours more to 
the mouth of Penobscot Brook. 



ALDER BROOK, 

twenty years ago a favorite feeding-ground for moose, 
runs through a stretch of country for the most part 
open and flat, and affording the best opportunity in 
the neighborhood for "still-hunting." Long grass 
covers its banks, with plenty of alder-bushes and some 
scrubby willows interspersed. For about two miles a 
canoe can run up the stream with ease, the general 
direction being south, and, beyond that point, west. 
The writer, on his only visit to this brook, in 1878, 
found a new beaver-dam about two miles from its mouth, 
which so raised the water as to render the passage 
very good for nearly a mile and a half further. The 
water above the dam was so deep, however, that he 
does not hesitate to express an opinion that very little 
difficulty in ascending the stream would be met by the 
canoe-man, even in the absence of such a dam. Good 
camping-ground will be found on the right, just below 
a short piece of shallow water, over which the canoe 
must be carried. Above these " rips " the stream is 
deep again for a mile, followed by a mile of shallow and 
deep places alternating. An old " landing " is at the 
foot of the quick water, which now appears in earnest, 



90 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

and here the canoe must stop, unless the brook should 
be high. The bed of the stream above this point is 
very rocky, and continues so for a mile and a half to 
an old dam. On the right a road leads up the stream, 
at the landing blindly to be sure, but above the dam 
it opens out and affords good walking up to, and be- 
yond, a ridge which runs north to the pond. The 
brook above the dam appears to be dead for about 
two miles and a half, its course being nearly east. 
It comes from the pond southerly, three quarters of 
a mile, to the point where the road crosses it; the 
latter goes a quarter of a mile further before it reaches 
the ridge spoken of above. Along the top of this 
ridge is a good path. The water of the pond is not 
cold, and the locality seems to promise litde, either for 
fish or for game. Bald Mountain Hes four or five 
miles southwest. 

This excursion, from the mouth of the brook to the 
pond and back, can be made comfortably in one day. 

NORTH BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

The ascent of this stream is difficult and slow, at and 
from its very junction with the South Branch. Wide and 
shallow, it flows over bars of gravel and sand, which 
lie a few rods apart and separate stretches of decep- 
tively smooth water. Large rocks strewn thickly over 
the bottom make it difficult to find a channel for even 
a lightly laden canoe. 

From the forks to Big Lane Brook, on the left, is 
about a mile and a half; thence three quarters of a 
mile to Leadbetter Brook on the same side ; thence 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 91 

three quarters of a mile to an old camp (Spencer's) 
on the right, and from there to Leadbetter Falls, about 
three quarters of a mile further, — or nearly four miles 
in all. 

Leadbetter Falls consists of several short pitches, 
over which a canoe can be pulled up or let down by 
the " painter " without much trouble, except, perhaps, 
in high water, when they can be run, coming down, 
on the paddle. The carry is only a few rods long, 
and Hes on the right, going up. The tote-road follows 
the river here, and as far up as High Landing, two 
miles above, where one branch leaves it and runs 
north and northeast, until it again nears it within three 
miles of the foot of Abacotnetic Bog. The other 
branch follows the stream up to the mouth of Dole 
Brook, but is no longer very distinct. 

The river immediately above the falls is somewhat 
deeper, and navigation a trifle easier. Four miles from 
the falls one comes opposite West Green Mt. (The 
eastern peak is from time to time visible from the lower 
parts of the stream.) There are now more stretches 
of dead-water, and the stream grows perceptibly nar- 
rower. Up to this point it has seemed shut in, as it 
were, and its banks have been lined for the most part 
with soft-wood ridges. Now, however, the country 
grows more open, and hard wood predominates, while 
the rocky character of the river-bed changes for several 
miles to that of sand and gravel. 

A few minutes' walk brings one in sight of East Green 
Mountain, a half-mile higher \\\) the stream, which at 
its base winds abruptly from the west, and the canoe- 
man's course tends more northwesterly. Following, 



92 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE, 

for a mile, a ridge which descends from the western 
mountain northerly, one comes to an island half a mile 
long ; the better channel, formerly on the west side, is 
now on the east. From the island it is a mile to Dole 
Brook. For sixty rods above this point navigation is 
irksome ; then it improves. Truesdell's Landing is 
about two miles above Dole Brook^ and less than a 
mile below Norris Brook. Just below and just above 
the latter the North Branch is difficult for about a mile. 
In Tp. V, R. XVIII, on the stream, is the clearing of 
L. C. Moore, two miles above the south Hne of the 
township. One mile above this clearing the Alder 
Ground begins, and extends some eight miles to Aba- 
cotnetic " Lake," a narrow body of water surrounded 
by an extensive bog. From Moore's up to St. John 
Pond carry, some seven miles, navigation is ordinarily 
not very difficult ; the worst part of the route is between 
Norris Brook and the P'orks. Indeed, it is only after 
a hard rain, or during a wet season, that the ascent of 
the North Branch is practicable with any degree of 
comfort. 

In the absence of high water, wading, and dragging 
of canoes will be the order of the day, with scarcely 
any intermission, — a process tiresome to the voyager, 
and ruinous to the canoe. 

The road from the Forks to the bog, after leaving 
High Landing, runs a mile and a quarter to Spencer's 
camp of 1878-9 ; thence five and a half miles to Trues- 
dell and Hildreth's camp (1878-9), which stood at 
the east end of Truesdell Pond. From this point to 
the north line of the township is a mile and three- 
eighths ; the road crosses a brook just a mile above 



PENOBSCOT WATERS, 93 

Truesdell's old camp. From the north h'ne of tliis 
township it is a mile and a half to where a branch road 
leads west, one mile, to Moore's clearing. From 
Moore's it is seven miles by road to St. John Pond 
carry, thence two miles to Abacotnetic Bog, the latter 
road being more or less grown to bushes. The Nortli 
Branch road from the Forks is quite good to a point 
where it descends from a ridge, four hundred feet 
above the stream, in Tp. V, R. XVII ; then it is 
apt to be wet. 

RfiSUMfi. 

Forks to Leadbetter Falls 4 m. 

Falls to Dole Brook 6 m. 

Dole Brook to Norris Brook 3 m. 

Norris Brook to Alder Ground 4 m. 

Alder Ground to Head of Bog 8 m. 



Ordinarily it will take two days to go from the Forks 
to Dole Brook. Beyond that point it is impossible to 
give an estimate of tune. It might take a day to reach 
the bog, or it might take several days. 

DOLE BROOK, 

or IMiddle Branch, will be found generally impracticable 
of navigation, and, aside from the falls, of little interest, 
either by way of scenery or promise of game. The 
main fall is about a mile and a half from the mouth of 
the brook. The water here trickles down the rock 
about ten or twelve feet. An eighth of a mile above, 
there is quite a long ledge, which slopes from the left 



94 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

bank to the centre of the stream, and forms its bed in 
times of freshets. It is worn into all sorts of basins 
and fissures and odd shapes, by the action of the 
water. 

At high water, that part of the stream above the falls 
will not present many obstacles to the canoe-man, and 
is chiefly used, at such seasons, either by lumbermen or 
smugglers. A tote-road runs from the mouth of the 
brook, on the north side, to Canada. It is as a whole 
quite good, lying through groves of soft wood, " burnt- 
slash," and over hard-wood ridges. It runs pretty near 
the brook as far as the falls, then half-way over the 
*' slash " nears it again, soon leaves it a second time, 
however, and, veering to the north, meets an old road 
(Lee's) from Dole Pond to the upper North Branch. 
Here it turns at a sharp angle, leads southwest and 
west, and again comes out to the stream just below 
Dole Pond. Plunging again into the woods, and cross- 
ing Robert Brook, one soon comes out at an old clear- 
ing. The old storehouse, the skeleton of which still 
remains standing on the bank of the pond, was built 
years ago, when lumbering was good in this region. 
Supplies were brought here from Canada, and grain 
and hay raised on the clearing during the summer, and 
distributed in winter to the neighboring lumbermen. 

DOLE POND, 

about a mile and a half long, and one mile broad in its 
widest part, is shallow and uninteresting, as is also Frost 
Pond, its counterpart, two and a half miles beyond. 
Between the two is an extensive " logon " frequented 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 95 

by caribou. No thoroughfare connects this " logon " 
with Dole Pond, the stream in summer disappearing 
almost wholly in one place, in or beneath a bog. 

RfiSUMfi. 

Mouth of Dole Brook to Falls i^^m. 

Falls to Burnt Land ^^im. 

Burnt Land 2m. 

Burnt Land to Dam 4-}4^- 

Dam to Storehouse 3^ra. 

Storehouse to Frost Pond SX"^* 

There seem to be no fish in these ponds and streams. 

LONG POND. 

To the south of and emptying into Dole Pond by a 
small stream navigable in high water, and about two 
miles in length, lies Long Pond, a charming little sheet 
of water between two and three miles long, and vary- 
ing in breadth from a half-mile to a mile. It is shut 
in by high wooded hills on every side, and seems to be 
quite deep. There is said to be good fishing in its 
waters. 

ST JOHN POND 

is reached from the North Branch of the Penobscot by 
a boggy road nearly two and a half miles long, that 
leaves a "landing " below the mouth of a small brook, 
whose course the road follows almost to the pond. 
The latter is a hundred and fifteen feet above the level 
of the North Branch at the carry. St. John Pond is 
between two and three miles long and a mile or less 
broad. Into its upper end flow two brooks, the more 



96 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

westerly of which is the outlet of several small ponds, 
the streams between which are for the most part quite 
unnavigable. The lowest pond of the series, five and a 
half miles up, might be reached without much diffi- 
culty, in seasons of high water, but at other times for 
nearly half of the distance canoes must be carried. 

BAKER LAKE. 

From Abacotnetic Bog, Baker Lake may be reached 
by two routes. The shorter route leads from a point a 
few rods up the brook which flows into the bog at its 
upper end. The carry, having been seldom used of 
late years, may be hard to follow. Two miles of rather 
soft walking bring one to Baker Brook, down which a 
canoe can be propelled without much difficulty to Baker 
Bog, two miles and a half of the way being " dead " 
water. Between this bog-pond and Baker Lake, how- 
ever, navigation is more difficult, and the water in the 
brook for nearly three miles "tumbles down hill," as 
the guides say, in a way that is discouraging. 

The other route is by way of St. John Pond, whose 
outlet, the Woboostook or Baker ^S/r^^/^z, flows eighteen 
miles, in an almost semicircular course, to Baker Lake. 
For six miles canoeing is said to be pretty good, then 
come about eight miles of carrying and dragging, be- 
tween which and the lake are four miles of " dead " 
water. 

The first of these routes is always preferable, because 
even in low water there is about one third as much car- 
rying and dragging to be done over it as there is in the 
second, while in the latter some parts of the stream are 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 97 

choked by logs and driftwood ; and when there is an 
abundance of water and good canoeing in one stream, 
there is also enough for as good canoeing in the other. 

From Baker Lake there is " strong " water, but plenty 
of it, to Seven Islands, some sixty or seventy miles dis- 
tant, from which place parties can be hauled across to 
Long Lake, on the Allagash, and come back to Moose- 
head by way of Chamberlain Lake and Mud Pond, or 
else descend the Allagash into the St. John again, thus 
avoiding the dangers of Black River Rapids. 

Baker Lake has a good reputation for fish and game, 
which certainly ought to be abundant there, owing to 
the difficulty of reaching the place. 

One day is enough in which to go from Abacotnetic 
Bog to Baker Lake, or two days from St. John Pond 
to the lake, and from that point Seven Islands may be 
reached in less than two days. 

CAUCOMGOMOC LAKE 

empties its waters through a stream of the same name, 
about twelve miles long, into Chesuncook Lake. With 
the exception of the upper three miles of the stream 
and two short falls, the water is smooth and navigation 
unrestricted. Until within a few years this region has 
been little visited, but from its accessibihty and pictu- 
resqueness it is fast becoming a popular resort. 

Leaving Chesuncook Lake, paddling about a mile, 
past the mouth of the Umbazooksus and over a small 
" rip," brings one to a miniature pond, at the north- 
east corner of which, to the left of the falls, is the end 
of a thirty-rod carry. There are two main pitches to 



98 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

these falls, some three and four feet high respectively. 
Putting in either at the head of the upper pitch, or fur- 
ther up the stream, around a bend at the foot of a very 
steep bank, about two miles intervene before the 
second fall is reached, — a single pitch of seven feet. 
Brandy Brook, between these two falls, furnishes good 
fishing after the first of September. 

From the upper falls to Black Pond is a mile and a 
half, and across the pond a mile and a quarter more. 
Thus far the water is deep and black, and the river 
banks pretty wide apart. Beyond Black Pond the banks 
converge, the water is clearer, and a current is appre- 
ciable. For three and a half miles, past Little Scott 
Brook, no obstructions exist. At its mouth, and in the 
river above, trout may be taken in a number of places. 
About a mile above this brook are the Oxbow Rips, 
two or three rods long, and here passengers will have 
to walk, and, in low water, carry canoes and baggage. 
At the foot of the bank, around the bend, is another 
good trout-hole. 

Half a mile more brings one to the foot of the 
" horse-race," a mile and a quarter long, up which a 
canoe with a light load may be poled or dragged, witli- 
out great difficulty unless the water is very Iiigh or very 
low. Around Horserace Falls, nearly three-quarters of 
a mile above dead-water, one may have to carry. 

A good road runs from the head of Chesuncook 
Lake up Caucomgomoc Stream, touching the latter at 
the second falls, and again about two miles from Cau- 
comgomoc Lake. The last two hundred rods of this 
road are apt to be wet and miry ; the rest of it above 
Oxbow Rips is on high ground, and dry. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 99 

The lake is one of the prettiest spots in IVEaine. It 
is about seven miles long, and three miles broad at its 
widest part, is of irregular shape, and has several small 
islands at its upper end. A charming camping-ground 
will be found on either side of a small point of land, 
which juts out from the west shore, some five miles 
from the outlet. On the north and south sides of the 
point are long stretches of sand-beach, back of which 
is good level camping-ground and plenty of wood, and 
on the north an icy cold brook. From the south side 
the view is fine, taking in a wide expanse of blue water. 
On the north, the lake narrows considerably and the 
view is much more hmited, being broken by pretty 
islands, and overshadowed, as it were, by forest-clad 
mountains on the west, — a decided contrast with the 
other view. 

The shores of the lake are in many places rocky and 
covered with cedars, and, excepting at the upper end, 
offer few good camping-places. 

AVERY BROOK 

empties into the head of Caucomgomoc Lake, to the 
west of a broad piece of meadow-land and "logon." 
It comes from a small pond of the same name about a 
mile and a quarter distant, and varies in width from ten 
to thirty feet. For half a mile it is deep enough for a 
canoe, but for the rest of the way quite shallow, and 
will give abundant opportunity to wade, and perhaps 
to make two or three short carries over its bed. The 
pond is quite small and almost completely overgrown 
with sedge-grass and lilies, but contains an inexhausti- 



lOO TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE. 

ble supply of small trout, which rise freely in the morn- 
ing and evening. Good fishing may also be had at the 
mouth of Avery Brook. 

LOON LAKE 

is even prettier than its neighbor, but much more diffi- 
cult of access. It is quite deep, and some three miles 
long by from one to two miles broad. Its outlet 
into Caucomgomoc Lake is in places shallow and 
rocky, but not very hard to navigate. (See Appendix, 
1893.) A good road runs along the south bank, 
beginning at the head of the dead-water (a half-mile 
from the mouth of the stream). It soon passes an old 
logging camp, crosses the brook three-quarters of a 
mile above it, and runs direct to the lower end of the 
lake, some two miles further. 

KURD PONDS 

are connected with Loon Lake by narrow and unnavi- 
gable brooks a few rods long. The lower pond is quite 
pretty, but the second one is shallow, and its shores 
dreary and uninviting. 

ROUND POND. 

On the other side of Caucomgomoc Lake, and con- 
nected with it by a deep stream four miles long, and 
rocky only at its mouth, is Round Pond (called the 
"Sis," abbreviated from Caucomgomocsis or Little 
Caucomgomoc), a body of water a mile and a half 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. loi 

long by one mile wide Good camping-ground will be 
found on the northwest side of the pond at the foot of 
a hard-wood ridge, or on the northeast side. Good 
fishing may be had in a spring ho?e near the mouth of 
a small brook on this latter side, or at the mouth of, 
and in, Poland Brook. 

DAGGETT POND 

is connected with Round Pond by a small stream a 
mile and a half long, through which at high water 
a canoe can easily be paddled. A beaver dam at the 
mouth of this stream for several years kept back 
enough water to answer all the purposes of the canoe- 
man going to Daggett Pond. This sheet of water, about 
a mile and a half in diameter, offers no special attrac- 
tions except, perhaps, in the way of cranberries, which 
grow in profusion on its northwest and southwest 
sides. 

A mile and a half intervene between Daggett Pond 
and Shallow Lake, the connecting stream being too 
small for a canoe, but furnishing good walking in its 
bed for three quarters of a mile, past a miniature fall, 
to an old dam. Above this dam a canoe can be led 
and carried to a second dam, and from there paddled 
among sharp rocks to 

SHALLOW LAKE, 

whose shores on nearly all its sides are swampy and 
covered with grass and hackmatack growth. 

The lake is about two miles long and a mile and a 
quarter broad, and with the exception of a part, about 



I02 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

a mile in diameter, towards its eastern end, is only 
from six inches to a foot deep, and covered with lily- 
pads and sedge -grass. The bottom is mud unadulter- 
ated, and the waves and ripples made by the progress 
of a canoe will bring bubbles of gas in great quantities 
to the surface of the water, on all sides, even ahead of 
the canoe. 

The lake lies diagonally north and south, and has 
two small islands at its west central end. A good road 
leads from its eastern extremity to Chamberlain Lake. 

Black ducks are found here in great quantities, and 
cranberries are plenty. At the northwest end of the 
lake, near the outlet, there runs along the shore a nat- 
ural ridge about four feet high, a sort of embankment, 
behind which the land falls two or three feet again.=* 
There are no trout in Shallow Lake, but some have 
been taken at the mouth of Shallow Lake brook in 
Daggett Pond. The boggy shores of both ponds are 
cut up with caribou tracks 

POLAND BROOK 

for a quarter of a mile from its mouth is deep, this 
character then giving place for another quarter-mile to a 
succession of "rips " and shallow places, through which 
some wading must be done. A miniature fall of three 
feet marks the reappearance of smooth water, which ex- 
tends up to Poland Pond. Above the falls the stream 
widens considerably, and on either side are hackma- 
tack bogs covered with grass and low bushes. Lily- 
pads cover the water except in the middle of the 
stream. These features predominate for two miles. 

* Probably formed by ice-pressure. See Dawson's Acadian 
Geology, ist edition, p. 40. 



\ 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 1 03 

The stream then resumes its old appearance, narrows 
a good deal, and exchanges a muddy for a sandy and 
rocky bottom. One mile more brings one to 



POLAND POND, 

a pleasing litde sheet of water about three quarters of 
a mile long and half a mile broad. There is some 
swampy ground at its western end, which makes isl- 
ands of two pieces of high land jutting out into the 
pond. A narrow channel which runs through this 
swamp leads over a succession of beaver dams, t3 
quite an extensive beaver pond. 

Wadleigh Brook, which empties into the northern 
end of the pond, is clear and cold, and at times affords 
good fishing. 

Parties who wish to visit and explore this region can 
best do so by camping on Round Pond, and taking 
one day for Poland Pond, and one for Shallow Lake 
and Daggett Pond. A light load, consisting of pro- 
visions for two days, an axe, kettle, frying-pan, and 
blankets, can be taken from there with canoe to Alla- 
gash Lake, and a very pleasant and easy excursion 
made. 

Chesuncook Lake to Caucomgomoc Lake . . 12m. 

Caucomgomoc Lake, length 7"^' 

Caucomgomoc Lake to Loon Lake 4"^- 

Caucomgomoc Lake to Round Pond .... 3m. 
Caucomgomoc Lake to Avery Pond .... iX"^- 

Round Pond to Poland Pond zYz^^- 

Round Pond to Shallow Lake 4/^in- 



I04 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 

It takes about a day to go from Chesuncook Lake 
to Caucomgomoc Lake. The carry around the " horse- 
race " can easily be made, canoe and baggage, in three 
hours. 

ALLAGASH LAKE. 

Ai the head of the dead-water near the mouth of 
Poland Brook begins the carry which leads to Alla- 
gash Lake. The path runs along a ridge of low moun- 
tains, perhaps half or one third of the way up their 
sides, and is three miles long and quite dry and open. 
From the end of the carry it is about three miles 
around to the mouth of Allagash Stream, a quiet, cold, 
narrow, and deep brook, with a sandy and rocky 
bottom, and navigable for several miles with compara- 
tive ease. There are no rapids, and but few "rips," for 
some distance from its mouth, but the current is quite 
strong. The stream, not having been " driven " of 
late years, is, higher up, somewhat choked with logs 
and drift wood. At and near its mouth there is good 
fishing. 

The northeast shore of the lake is low and sandy, 
that on the west is rocky, and often precipitous to a 
height of fifty or seventy-five feet. West of the lake 
several mountains, the Toulbah range, appear quite 
strikingly ; the country on the other sides, however, is 
flat and uninteresting. 

Several small brooks empty into Allagash Lake, 
none of which are navigable. Good camping-ground 
may be found on the west side of the lake about a 
mile from the inflowing Allagash, beneath a precipitous 
wall of rock. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 105 

Parties sometimes ascend Allagash Stream to Mu4 
and Crescent Ponds, and carrying across, from the 
mouth of the inflowing brook, two or three miles (two 
different roads) to Chemquasabamticook Lake, go down 
the (hfificult stream of that name into Long Lake. 

Chamberlain Lake may be reached by going down 
the Allagash. The stream is quite rapid for two miles 
and a half from the lake, and flows with considerable 
current for another mile to Allagash Pond. At the 
outlet of the pond is a pretty fall, fifteen feet high, and 
between it and the head of dead-water, two miles and 
a half, there are rapids, and three "pitches" over 
which canoes must be lifted. From the head of dead- 
water it is a mile and a half to Chamberlain Lake, the 
banks of the stream being lined with the trunks and 
roots of dead trees. When the water is fairly high the 
ascent of the stream takes but a few hours. 



DOWN THE ST. JOHN RIVER. 

The first part of this route has already been described 
on pages 64 and 65. 

From the head of Chesuncook Lake, and mouth of 
Caucomgomoc Stream, it is but a fraction of a mile to 
the mouth of the Umbazookskus, — a stream which for 
four or five miles winds sluggishly, but with provok- 
ing pertinacity, through low meadow-lands which yield 
a yearly abundance of hay to the Chesuncook formers. 
There is a cold spring on the right about a mile from 
the mouth of the stream. Above this stretch of " dead " 
water there is quick and shallow water for some two 
miles, or more, through which a canoe may be poled, 



lo6 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

or led, without much difficulty, except for perhaps a 
quarter of a mile, where carrying may become neces- 
sary. A good road runs on the right up to Umbazook- 
skus Lake, and during the summer season, a team and 
"jumper" are constantly on hand to haul canoes and 
luggage over to Mud Pond, at an expense of from three 
and a half to five dollars. 

Paddling a mile across the southeast corner of the 
lake, one comes to the beginning of the famous Mud 
Pond Carry, the dread of guides, and abomination of 
sportsmen. This carry is two miles long, and although 
improved of late years, in many places has the appear- 
ance of the bed of a brook, with water and mud enough 
almost to float a canoe. Except in very dry seasons 
the traveller here sinks in mire up to his ankles, and 
without a pair of rubber boots is indeed "at sea." 
This hardship once over, by no means onerous if one 
has no heavy load to carry, the rest of the St. John 
trip is so comparatively easy and pleasant, that the 
remembrance of one's toil is soon lost, for the time, in 
keen enjoyment. 

MUD POND, 

whose name carries with it its chief characteristic, is 
nearly round, and about a mile wide. Lifting over a 
dam at its outlet, wading may again become necessary 
for about three-eighths of a mile down the brook, which 
for half a mile near its mouth broadens into a sort 
of "logon," where ducks congregate. A good carry 
leaves the dam, on the left, and leads to the head of 
the dead-water, three-eighths of a mile. Passing with 
difficulty through a confused mass of submerged stumps 
and floating tree-trunks, a run of two miles across 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 1 07 

CHAMBERLAIN LAKE, OR APMOOJENEGAMOOK, 

" at the great cross-lake," brings one to Chamberlain 
farm, where the most necessary articles of camp fare 
are usually to be had — at a good round price. 

The shores of this lake are not very attractive. Some 
years ago a large dam was built at its natural outlet, and 
the water forced back and through an artificial '^ cut " 
or canal between Telos and Webster Lakes. This en- 
ables the lumberman to take his logs down the East 
Branch of the Penobscot River to a home market, 
instead of having to go into New Brunswick. The 
consequent rise of water in the lake flooded its shores 
and killed the trees on them for several yards back. 
Nearly all of the withered trunks which then lined the 
lake have fallen, and the shores look more as Nature 
made them, save the drift-wood which here and there 
in unsightly masses helps to make impenetrable any 
camp-ground within. The tourist gladly passes on to 
the dam and lock, some three miles from the farm. 
Two short carries must be made past these obstacles, 
— on the right, — and after running through some 
quick water and a pleasing little lakelet, one emerges 
into 

EAGLE LAKE, OR PONGOKWAHEMOOK. 

This is a pretty and irregular sheet of water, with 
attractive shores, and contains two or three good-sized 
islands. Several brooks empty into it, which are par- 
tially navigable, and through some of which access may 
be had to ponds beyond. The meaning of its Indian 
name is said to be " Woodpecker place." 



I08 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

SMITH BROOK, 

the outlet of Haymock Lake, empties into Eagle Lake 
on the east nearly opposite Pillsbury Island. It is dead- 
water for nearly two miles and a half from its mouth, to 
the head of an island, at which and above which the 
brook is shallow and its bed rocky. For the next half 
mile the water is fairly deep until within a few steps 
of the foot of the " carry," when it again becomes shal- 
low. The " carry " is a good one, Hes on the left, and 
is three-quarters of a mile long. Near its upper end 
there is a small water-fall. For the next half mile the 
canoeman may find several old beaver-dams, over 
which his canoe will have to be lifted, but beyond 
them the stream winds sluggishly through a bog for 
two miles and a half, from within a quarter of a mile 
of 

HAYMOCK LAKE, 

when wading becomes necessary. An old path runs 
from the head of the bog, on the left ba7ik, up to the 
lake. Fair camping-grounds may be found near either 
end of the bog. Haymock Lake is about tvvo and a 
half miles long and from a mile to a mile and a half 
wide, and surrounded by forests of mingled hard and 
soft wood. Its name is probably the latter part of the 
Indian word for Eagle Lake, Pongokwahemook, which 
by some accident or through the fancy of some ignorant 
white man was transferred to the tributary lake. The 
excursion from Eagle Lake to Haymock Lake and 
back can be made comfortably in one day. 

Russell, Soper, Snare, and Thoroughfare Brooks are 
navigable for some distance, and afford good fishing 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 109 

in places, one of which is off a sandy point at the head 
of a small "bulge" in Snare Brook. The mouth of 
Soper Brook, for nearly a mile, is shallow, but above 
the dam the stream is deep, with one exception, for 
more than three miles, and is bordered by much the 
same country as that on upper Smith Brook. 

From Chamberlain Dam it is about three miles to 
Pillsbury Island, another mile to the mouth of Smith 
Brook, three miles and a half more to the Narrows, 
thence nearly two miles to the Thoroughfare, and two 
miles and a half through it to the mouth of Thorough- 
fare Brook, which is but a few rods from Churchill 
Lake. 

CHURCHILL LAKE, 

or " Allagaskwigamook," " at the bark-wigwam lake," 
is about six miles long, and three miles broad in its 
widest part. Into it empty, on the southwest and only 
a few rods apart, the Twin Brooks, the more northern 
of which is the outlet of Spider Lake. From the beach 
midway between the brooks an old and difficult " carry " 
leads through a stretch of " burnt land," or " second 
growth," up the left bank of North Twin, a mile and a 
quarter, to a small sedge-grown and marshy pond. In 
seasons of high water the canoeman can take his loaded 
canoe up the stream from its mouth. At other times 
his luggage, at least, and perhaps his canoe too, must 
be carried as far as the pond, across which (a quar- 
ter mile) passage is almost always sure, even if slow. 
Above this point the stream will generally float a loaded 
canoe up to the dam at its head. An old and obscure 
path runs to the dam (one mile) along the left bank 
of the brook, leaving the latter just above Marsh Pond. 



no TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

SPIDER LAKE (ALLAGASKWIGAMOOKSIS), 

a cove-indented pond, is about two miles long and a 
mile wide. Its water is black and deep, and teems 
with togue. This is the first of the chain of lakes 
and ponds which leads to Munsungan Lakes and the 
Aroostook River, over a route used for many years 
by hunters and fur-dealers. Some old cedar-trees on 
the " carries " still bear names and dates written as 
long ago as '49. 

DOWN THE AROOSTOOK. 

At the upper end of Spider Lake, behind the largest 
island in the lake, is the mouth of the principal brook. 
Fifty or sixty rods up this black and dismal stream, on 
the left bank, is the end of a " carry," which begins in 
a cedar-swamp, but soon rising on to higher and firmer 
ground, continues a mile and strikes the brook again 
just below the outlet of a small " logon." Paddling 
across the latter three-eighths of a mile, and sixty rods 
more up the brook beyond, another " carry " begins, 
on the left bank. The path is good, although wet, and 
brings one in about five minutes to a small oblong 
pond, half a mile in its greatest diameter, and partly 
surrounded by bogs and cedar-swamps. Here are the 
head- waters of Spider Lake ; and a " carry " of a mile 
and a half, which runs over uneven and in some places 
steep ground, connects them with 

ECHO LAKE, 

the head-waters of the Aroostook. This little pond, 
about three-quarters of a mile long and three-eighths 



ST. JOHN WATERS. ill 

of a mile \vide, lies betweea several high hills, whose 
forest sides take up and send back the sounds made on 
its bosom, until oft-repeated they die away in the dis- 
tance. Deep, and fed by cold brooks and springs, it 
would seem to be a good place for trout. Just east of 
the end of the " carry," in 1879, there was a comfort- 
able hunters' cabin. 

At the eastern end of the pond, on the right of the 
small stream which is its outlet, a path runs through a 
cedar swamp, about sixty rods, to a pond eighty rods 
long. Three-quarters of a mile beyond and southeast 
of this pond is another pond, or, more properly, a 
" bulge " in the brook, three-eighths of a mile long. 
Into its upper end flows another small brook, and just 
below its outlet is an old dam. Good dry camp-grounds 
can be found from time to time along the course of this 
stream, the forests being not so swampy as on Spider 
Lake waters. 

From the dam just mentioned it is a mile and a half 
to Upper or First Munsungan Lake. An old and over- 
grown road runs along the right bank of the stream, in 
some places hardly distinguishable from the surround- 
ing forests, and the canoe-man's only resource when the 
water is low, if haply this resource be left him, is to 
cut away a beaver-dam just above the outlet of Bulge 
Pond and " sluice " himself down stream on the at- 
tendant flood. The brook is quite pretty, and runs 
over a rocky bottom, rapid and shallow almost all the 
way, beneath overhanging forests of both hard and soft 
woods. 



112 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

MUNSUNGAN LAKES. 

The first of the three lakes of this name is three- 
quarters of a mile wide and a little less than two miles 
long. Emerging into its open area from the confined 
and forest-pent streams over which one has been labor- 
ing, the change is very acceptable. Along the southern 
shore of the lake runs a high ridge, from which doubt- 
less one could get fine views of the three lakes and 
surrounding country. 

A brook of quick and shallow water, a quarter of 
a mile long, connects First Lake with Second Lake. 
The latter is the largest of the three, and is three miles 
and a half long by nearly a mile wide. 

A thoroughfare of shallow and " dead " water, about 
twenty rods long, leads into the lower or Third Lake, 
which in turn is of about the same dimensions as First 
Lake. Togue abound in these waters, and an occa- 
sional moose may still be found roaming through the 
forests which border on them. 

MUNSUNGAN STREAM. 

For about a mile below the lower lake the water is 
" dead." It then tumbles over a few broken ledges, 
past which canoes must be lifted, for some two rods. 
From here to its junction with the Milnokett branch, 
about eight miles, the brook flows over a smooth bot- 
tom, and with the exception of a mile and a half its 
water is " quick," and navigation easy. On the main 

AROOSTOOK RIVER 
there are some few rapids, but no bad places of any 
consequence. It is six miles from the Munsungan- 



ST. JOHN WATERS ^ 113 

Milnokett Forks to the mouth of the Mooseleuk, a 
stream whose upper waters abound in long reaches of 
dead-water and sequestered ponds, and up which, ordi- 
narily, the canoe-man's course will not be very diffi- 
cult. 

Ten miles below the mouth of Mooseleuk one comes 
to Painter's, the first farm on this route, where potatoes, 
flour, butter, and milk can be bought. Two miles below, 
at Botting's farm, connection may be made with the stage 
which runs between Oxbow Plantation and Mattawam- 
keag, via Patten. From this point it takes ordinarily 
about four days to paddle to Caribou. When the river 
is high the same distance may be made in a day and 
a half or two days. 

Of all the river-routes for the canoe-man in Northern 
Maine this is the least interesting. Its chief hardships 
occur between Churchill and Munsungan Lakes, where 
a succession of " carries " and swamp-girt ponds have 
few redeeming features of landscape to break their 
monotony, while nowhere do wild gorges or pictu- 
resque waterfalls, as on the Penobscot River, reward 
the tourist's patient toil. On the main river, too, or on 
its upper waters at least, the farms are generally hidden 
from sight, and do not dot the forest reaches with 
their fresh green cultivation, as on the River St. John. 

At Presque Isle or Caribou one takes cars for ^^'ood- 
stock, thence for Vanceboro and Bangor. 

RliSUMIi. 

Allagaskwigamook to Allagaskwigamooksis 2;'4'm. i clay. 
Allagaskwigamooksis to Echo Lake . . 4m. i^ days. 
Echo Lake to Third Munsungan Lake . 3m. i^ days. 



114 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE. 



Across Third Lake 

Thoroughfare between Second and Third Lakes 

Across Second Lake 

Thoroughfare betw. First and Second Lakes 20 

Across First Lake 

First Lake to Milnokett Stream ...... 

Mihiokett Stream to Mooseleuk Stream . . . 
Mooseleuk Stream to Lapompeag Stream . . 
Lapompeag Str. to Hayden Brook (First farm) 
Hayden Brook to Umcoleus Stream . . . . 

Umcoleus Stream to Otter Brook 

Otter Brook to the Oxbow 

Oxbow to Trout Brook 

Trout Brook to Houlton Brook 

Houlton Brook to St. Croix Stream .... 
St. Croix Stream to Scapan Stream .... 
Scapan Str. to Big Machias Str. (dead-water) . 
Big Machias Stream to Little Machias Stream . 
Little Machias Stream to Gardner Brook 
Gardner Brook to Salmon Brook . . . 
Salmon Brook to Presque Isle Stream . 
Presque Isle Stream to Caribou . . . 
Caribou to Little Madawaska Stream . . 
Little Madawaska Stream to Fort Fairfield 
Fort Fairfield to Aroostook Falls . . . 
Aroostook Falls to St. John River. . . . 



2m. 
Xm. 

4m. 
rods. 
Xm. 

9m. 

6m. 

2m. 

8m. 

3m. 

im. 

im. 

2m. 

5m. 

6m. 

5m. 

7m. 

2m. 
I cm. 

6m. 
1 2m. 
13m. 

5m. 

7m. 

4m. 

•:{m. 



■ I day. 



I day. 



I day. 



[ days. 



i27Xm. 

Stages leave Ashland, for Patten on Tuesdays ; for 
Presque Isle, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. 

SPIDER LAKE TO MUSQUACOOK. 

At the head of a small cove at the northeast end of 
Spider Lake, which lies opposite a small island, begins 
the " carry " into Pleasant Lake. Until the autumn of 
1881 this path was but a "spotted line," used almost 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 1 15 

exclusively, in the winter, by hunters. Ifi October 
of that year, however, the writer went by this route 
over Pleasant, Harrow, and Musquacook Lakes, down 
Musquacook Stream into the Allagash and St. John 
Rivers, and his guides "bushed out" the old tote- 
roads where there were any, and cut new roads where 
none had before existed. The " carry " first above 
mentioned runs northeast about a mile and a half, over 
level and dry ground^ and comes out on 

PLEASANT LAKE 

just east of a small point or promontory which juts out 
from the south shore midway of the lake. Lito this 
body of water, which is two miles long (less rather than 
more), and about a mile wide, only one brook of im- 
portance empties, — at its northeast end. This brook 
is said to flow through a small beaver-pond, about a 
mile above its mouth. Several small and picturesque 
islands near South Point and a group of mountains 
(" Peaked " Mt. and others) northeast of the pond make 
the landscape pretty enough to warrant the name Pleas- 
ant Lake. 

Crossing towards the northwest, one enters Mud 
Cove, whose waters unfortunately emit a very disagree- 
able odor, which during unfavorable winds may prove 
a great annoyance to campers in the vicinity. Camp- 
ing-ground, good in other respects, will be found at 
the head of the cove on the end of the '' carry " to 
Harrow Lake, a few rods west of which is a brook of 
delicious spring- water. The " carry " into 



Ii6 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

HARROW LAKE 

is a mile long, and, soon after leaving Mud Cove, runs 
over a very wet bog, its northern terminus being at the 
head of a deep bog-bound cove. On the left of the 
cove rises Pleasant Mt., a ridge which extends westerly 
for half a mile or more, and is very conspicuous from 
Churchill, Spider, and Pleasant Lakes. This " carry " 
appears to be an old tote-road, the main branch of 
which skirts along the eastern shore of Harrow Lake, 
runs up Bog Brook and around to Clear and Mud 
Lakes of the Musquacook group. 

Harrow Lake is about two miles long and half a 
mile wide, except at the east end, where two opposite 
coves increase its width to a mile or more. Its water 
has a dirty yellowish appearance, and seems to contain 
no fish, save some large specimens of the tadpole-order. 
At the lower end of the pond the country is flat and 
boggy, and filled with forests of dead trees, many of 
which, having fallen, choke the outflowing stream. 
Good camping-ground may be found on the eastern 
and northeastern shores of the lake. 

Paddling half a mile up the northeast cove, which 
soon narrows into the proportions of a brook, the 
canoe-man will find on the right the road heretofore 
mentioned, which runs towards Musquacook waters 
along 

BOG BROOK. 

The lower part of it is wet and swampy, but it soon 
rises on to higher ground, and at the end of a mile 
runs past an extensive bog which branches off northerly, 



ST. JOHN WATERS. II7 

while the road continues easterly along the course of 
the brook. At the end of another three-(|uarters of a 
mile the lower end of a more extensive bog is reached, 
through which the brook flows sluggishly for nearly a 
mile. The " carry " from here to Fourth Lake leaves 
the northeastern side of the bog a few rods above its 
lower end, runs northeasterly, soon skirting easterly 
along the south edge of a wide and open bog, or 
" barren," then northerly again, until it reaches Fourth 
(Musquacook) Lake a mile below its head. 

Should the tourist prefer to continue up Bog Brook, 
he will find near its head, on the east side, a good road 
which will lead him forty rods to a tiny beaver-pond, 
beyond which it is about half a mile over a bad road 
to Clear Lake, the source of the Musquacook, and a 
very pretty body of water. Northwest of it lies Round 
Mt., conspicuous from many points of the surrounding 
country. From the outlet of Clear Lake the old road 
runs along the stream past a small beaver-pond, about 
a mile and a half, to 

MUD LAKE. 

This lake is all that its name implies, — a thin coat- 
ing of water over a volume of yellow mud, which in 
many places seriously impedes the passage of a canoe. 
It is otherwise quite an attractive spot, and commands 
a flne view of Round Mt. on the west, and the Peaked 
Mt. group on the south, while Triple Mt. is visible 
on the northeast. A small and pretty island is cjuite 
conspicuous off the eastern shore of the lake, opposite 
an extensive bog where cranberries grow in ])rofusion. 
The Lake is crescent-shaped and somewhat over two 



Ii8 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE. 

miles long from "horn" to "horn." The stream 
which is its outlet is about a quarter of a mile long, 
and, excepting a short stretch near its mouth, will 
generally be found deep enough to float a canoe. 

FOURTH LAKE, 

the next in the chain, is nearly if not quite three 
miles long and half a mile wide, lying northwest and 
southeast. Besides the stream from Mud Lake, three 
insignificant brooks empty into it, and the sameness of 
its shores and absence of variety in the surrounding 
scenery impress one unfavorably. The outlet into 

THIRD, OR DONALD'S LAKE, 

is a small brook which flows from the northeast end of 
the lake. It is about a mile long, and usually shallow 
enough throughout its entire length to make wading 
expedient, if not necessary. Donald's " Lake " lies 
east and west, is a mile and a quarter long and five- 
eighths of a mile wide, and on its western shore is the 
resting-place of " Dirty Donald," who for many years 
lived and hunted on Eagle Lake and Allagash waters. 
He was left at this pond, by a sturdy companion, in 
a feeble condition, and with only two days' provisions, 
and when found three weeks later he lay on his back on 
the floor of his little log-camp, his face looking upwards 
through the o]:>en chimney-place, and partly covered 
with a tin basin to protect it from the foiling snow. 
Near him pieces of round-wood were found with the 
bark gnawed off, — sure signs of an awful death from 
starvation. 



S7: JOHN WATERS. 1 19 

Paddling across from the southwest to the northwest 
corner of this pond, one enters the brook which leads 
to Second Lake. It is somewhat deeper than the last 
one, and about the same length, or a trifle longer. 

SECOND LAKE 

is a mile and a half, or more, long, and less than half 
as wide. At its foot is a very good log-cabin, large 
enough for three or four persons. Near it fishing is 
said to be good — probably in deep water, for togue. 
A brook flowing in from the west affords good feeding- 
ground for large game. A short thoroughfare leads 
into 

FIRST LAKE, 

the longest and narrowest of the chain. It is by some 
persons said to be four miles in length, but if measured 
would probably be found to fall short of three. At its 
foot are the ruins of an old dam, over which canoe and 
luggage must be lifted. From the left side of the 
dam a good road leads down the stream a short dis- 
tance, and soon turns westward between two ridges, 
running thence ten miles to Depot Farm. A logging- 
camp lies further down the stream, on the same bank, 
some little distance from the water. 

MUSQUACOOK STREAM. 

For a mile and a quarter below the dam the bed of 
the brook is a mass of boulders, without pretence of 
having any channel, and bears the name of " horse- 
race." The canoe-man, unless his bark be "shod," 



I20 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE 

must "carry" past this obstruction, and will probably 
find that the road on the left bank will be useful for 
the greater part if not for the whole of the distance, 
A mile and a quarter below the " horse-race " a good- 
sized brook, sometimes called the " Little Musqua- 
cook," empties into the stream from the west, and a 
mile below it one comes to an alder-ground and 
deeper, smoother water. This continues for half a 
mile, when the water shoals again and for two miles 
runs over a wider bed. Another stretch of smoother 
water, along which is good camping-ground, extends 
three quarters of a mile, after which for nearly six miles 
down to its mouth the stream is shallow and rapid, 
but ordinarily deep enough to float a loaded canoe. 
Robin's Brook empties into the stream from the east, 
about seven miles from its mouth. But few good 
camping-grounds offer themselves along the twelve- 
mile course of the stream, fires having run through the 
forests, in 1881, on both banks, from below the alder- 
ground nearly to the junction with the Allagash. 

" Musquacook " is from maskwemoosi, " birch-tree " 
(Rale), and aukc, " place, " — " birch-tree place." 

RfiSUMli. 

AUagaskwigamooksis Lake to Pleasant Lake i>^m. \ , 
Across Pleasant Lake to Harrow Lake Carry i^m. ) ^' 

Pleasant Lake to Harrow Lake im. 

Across Harrow Lake to Mouth of Bog Brook i ^m- 

PLirrow Lake to Fourth Lake 3>^m. ij^ days. 

End of Carry to Outlet of First Lake . . io)4m. i day. 
First Lake to Mouth of Musquacook Stream 12m. 2 days. 

31m. 6 days. 



day. 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 



121 



ALLAGASH AND ST. JOHN RIVERS. 
From the head of Churchill Lake (Allagaskwiga- 
mook) it is about six miles to the remains of Chase 
Dam which are just below a bit of quick-water at the 
foot of the lake. This dam was built some years ago, 
in order to raise the water high enough to take logs up 
through the Locks into Chamberlain Lake, and thence 
down the East Branch of the Penobscot. Such a step 
was rendered necessary by the action of the Provmce 
of New Brunswick, which, although bound by the treaty 
of 1842 to regard all logs which should come down the 
St John as if they were the product of the Province, 
discriminated against the Yankees by levymg a duty 
on all logs coming down the river, and the crown then 
paid a corresponding bounty on logs cut from the 
crown-lands. During the same season, or a later one 
John Glazier and an associate, from the Provmce of 
New Brunswick, were driving logs on the lower Alla- 
gash and St. John Rivers. The overflow from Chase 
Dam was not sufficient to carry out their timber, and 
it was feared the " drive " would be " hung up. At 
this juncture, the story goes, a party of Glazier's men 
went up the river secretly, captured one of the two 
men in charge of the dam, and cut away the latter. 
The other man in charge escaped, and before he 
reached his party at Chamberlain Lake nearly suc- 
cumbed to fatigue and hunger. It is needless to add 
that Glazier had all the water he wanted to carry his 
"drive" successfully down the river. The dam was 
subsequently burnt. 

At the dam begins, on the left. Chase Carry, over 



122 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

which it is expedient for such persons at least as are 
novices in the management of a canoe to carry both 
their canoe and luggage. They thus avoid what is 
considered the worst place on the River, where the 
stream is filled with huge boulders, between which the 
water madly dashes and foams, making a tortuous 
channel for the navigator, if channel it may be called, 
dangerous and difficult of passage at all times, and 
only to be attempted when the water is neither very 
high nor very low. A part of this '' horse-race " has 
received the pet name of the " Devil's Elbow," a term 
appHed sometimes also to a spot nearly half a mile 
further down the stream, where the river narrows and 
where in the midst of rocks and foaming water a canoe 
must shoot across from one side of the stream to the 
other, or swamp. 

The carry is about three-quarters of a mile long, 
and pretty well filled up with fallen trees and growing 
bushes. Immediately below it the water is (juite rough 
for some little distance, and one must be constantly on 
the alert to avoid shipwreck. This over, however, a 
canoe glides smoothly down the river past meadow- 
land and grassy islands into Umsaskis Lake, — some 
eight or nine miles in all. 

UMSASKIS LAKE 

is about four miles long, and two miles wide in its 
broadest part. It is really but a part of Long Lake, 
its name (more correctly Uem-sas-kek) denoting a 
place where opposing points of land run out to meet 
each other, or more graphically described by " tied 
tocrether like sausages." Amonfr the islands near its 



ST. JOHN WATERS, 123 

head is good feeding-ground for game, and until within 
a few years past moose could usually be found there. 
From the foot of Umsaskis it is about six miles to 
the lower end of 

LONG LAKE, 

which is chiefly noted for its Depot Farm. This farm 
was long kept by one Priestly, and later by one John- 
son and his Amazonian wife, as a supply-centre for the 
Allagash-loggers. Here one can get flour and potatoes 
at the modest prices, respectively, of ten cents per 
pound and twenty-five cents per peck. The present 
proprietor is named Harvey. Through his place runs 
the road from Seven Islands on the main St. John 
River, which continues eastward past the foot of Mus- 
quacook Lakes to Ashland. From Depot Farm it is 
eight miles down the river to 

PATAQUONGAMIS, OR ROUND POND, 

the water being in places quite rapid, but easy of navi- 
gation. " Square Lake," as this body of water has 
often been called, is a misnomer, the adjectival part of 
its Indian name meaning "round." From its inlet to 
its outlet is about two miles, the lake extending to the 
right from the inlet, thus making its total length some- 
what greater. 

ALLAGASH RIVER. 

Three miles more of paddling, partly through dead- 
water, bring one to the mouth of Musquacook Stream. 
High ridges on either bank, looking down on the 



124 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

widening expanse of placid water, give a new and 
pleasant sensation to the voyageur, and the stream so 
lately struggling against rocky barriers seems at last 
to have overcome them all, and to be indeed a deep 
majestic river. Destructive forest-fires ran through 
this section of Maine in the summer of 1881, and have 
left very few green oases on the river-banks. When the 
charred remains of the noble forest-trees shall begin 
to fall, the scene will be desolate enough ! 

From the mouth of Musquacook Stream a mile and 
a half of dead-water bring one to some rapids, and 
nearly a mile more (of dead-water and current) to a 
rude clearing on the left, where the river narrows to 
half its former width. After three-quarters of a mile 
more of strong current, one passes, on the right. Five 
Finger Brook, so called from the various channels into 
which it separates near its mouth. Passing a small 
island just below the brook, four miles of strong current 
and '^rips," with three or more "shallow" bars, bring 
one to other islands and a stretch of less rapid current ; 
another mile and a half of current and " rips," to Ben 
Glazier Brook on the left. Then follow a mile and a 
quarter of similar navigation past an island which lies 
near the right bank, to Ramsay's farm on the opposite 
side. The river makes a wide sweep to the left around 
this clearing, and after about two miles and a half of 
uneventful paddling Finley McLennan's farm is passed, 
on the left bank below some rapids. Here or at 
Moir's, a mile below on the other side, one can get 
provisions and plenty of good butter and delicious 
milk. 

One of the earliest settlers on this part of the river 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 125 

was one Monroe, whose name a brook and island bear. 
Finley McLennan has succeeded to the ownership of 
the Monroe farm, and his name is often given to Mon- 
roe's Island, the first of a group of nine which He be- 
tween here and Allagash Falls. The channel lies on 
the left of Finley's or Monroe's Island, past the mouth 
of McLennan's Brook. It is three miles to Allagash 
Falls. Several farms lie on either side of the river, 
owned by sons-in-law of Thomas Moir, a thrifty farmer 
from the Restigouche country, at whose house travellers 
are always sure of a cordial welcome. 
From Moir's it is two miles to 

ALLAGASH FALLS, 

the river flowing with considerable current until just 
before the falls are reached, when it grows rapid. 
Canoes can safely run the rapids, past the upper, to 
the lower carry, which lies on the right and is but a 
few rods long. The falls are quite pretty, and consist 
of one broken, ragged pitch, twenty-seven feet high by 
actual measurement. The water as it passes over the 
ledge of clay-slate is dashed into foam almost as white 
as milk, but it soon regains its former semblance, and 
flows on in tranquillity, unruffled by other impediments 
than an occasional gravel-bar. 

Canoes can usually be put into the water immedi- 
ately below, but out of sight of, the falls. The water 
breaks over a small ledge just below here, easy of pas- 
sage save where the river is quite high. 

The distances on the St. John, below the mouth of 
the Allagash, have been measured on the ice, while 



126 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

those on the Allagash (both above and "below the 
falls), as given by the settlers on its banks, are by them 
said to be computed on the tow7i-lmes. Hence when 
the canoe-man is told by a "native " that it is twelve and 
a half miles from Allagash Falls to the mouth of the 
river, he may expect the distance to lengthen out to at 
least fourteen miles, just as the distance from Musqua- 
cook Stream to McLennan's is twelve and a half miles 
instead of ten. 

From the falls half an hour's paddle brings one to 
a small island and Kobscus or Keeobscus (" near the 
falls ") Brook on the right. Most of the shallow parts of 
the river will now have been passed, and a continuous 
current, with occasional rapids, is to be expected. 
Twin Brook Rapids, the worst on the river, are about 
seven miles below the falls, and lie between two small 
streams, which flow into the river from its opposite 
banks. 

There are no farms on the Allagash below the falls, 
until within a mile or more of its mouth, when the 
river makes two sweeping bends down a perceptible 
incline, and mingles its waters with those of the St. 
John. A goodly mountain looks down upon the now 
broad expanse of water, and high and pretty ridges 
extend along either bank for some distance. 



ST. JOHN RIVER, OR WOOLASTOOK. 

Less than a mile below the junction of the two 
rivers are " Nigger " Brook Rapids, a dangerous place 
for inexperienced boatmen. " Nigger " Brook takes 
its name from the circumstance that a number of 



ST. JOHN- WATERS. 12 7 

negroes first cut logs on it. From here it is three 
miles to Cross Rock and rapids of the same name ; 
one mile more to Golen ( ?) Rapids ; three or three 
and a half miles more to Rankin Rapids, and nearly 
two miles more to Michu Rapids. The latter are less 
than two miles from the mouth of the St. Francis River, 
which joins the St. John from the north, and with its 
lakes forms the boundary Hne between Maine on the 
west and Quebec and New Brunswick on the east, for 
a distance of thirty miles, to the foot of Boundary Lake 
(Pohenagamook) . 

UP THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER. 

From its mouth it is five miles to Glaziers' Lake, 
three miles across the latter, three miles more to Cross 
Lake, eighty rods over it, and three and a half miles 
further to " Beau " Lake. The latter is a mile wide 
and five miles long, and at its head is Morrison's farm, 
from which it is about fifteen miles to Boundary Lake. 
Here there is a settlement, from which it is twenty 
miles, over a good road, to railway connection. This 
route is quite a pretty one, and does not usually pre- 
sent many difficulties to the canoe-man. 

ST. JOHN RIVER TO FORT KENT. 

From the Allagash to the mouth of the St. Francis 
it is twelve miles, and if at the latter point, the canoe- 
man should prefer a good bed indoors to a hard one 
under his tent, he will find it at the neat and attractive 
little white house of Martin Savage, which stands some 
distance back from the river, on the right or Maine 



128 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

bank of the St. John. Robert Connor, a successful 
lumberman, whose large and imposing house stands on 
the New Brunswick bank of the river, three miles below 
Savage's, is also very courteous towards tourists, and 
would no doubt gladly extend the hospitality of his 
house to tired or belated canoe-men.* After leaving 
the Allagash one will find that good camping-ground 
and fire-wood grow more rare the further one pro- 
ceeds down stream. Hence the foregoing bit of infor- 
mation. 

After having passed the mouth of the St. Francis, 
the canoe-man will have New Brunswick on his left 
and Maine on his right, until he shall have passed 
Van Buren, and come within two and a half or three 
miles of Grand Falls, beyond which the St. John 
becomes wholly provincial. 

Below Savage's, one mile, the first "rips" or rapids 
in the river are at Toban Bar. Five and a half or six 
miles more bring one to Savage's Island, then a mile 
and a half to Harford's Rocks, and two miles more to 
Winding Ledges, just above which on the left bank is 
the first church the tourist will see. At low water the 
river at Winding Ledges is quite smooth. At high 
water however, its boils over the three sharp ledges 
which jut out into the stream (one from the left bank, 
the other two flanking it from the right bank), and to 
pass successfully a canoe must keep well to the left, 
until just above the break at the second ledge, then 
shoot across deftly to the other bank, follow it down 

* The roadbed of the Tcmiscouata Railway is now completed 
and open to this point. 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 129 

and recross just above where the water breaks over the 
third ledge. Six miles more beyond Winding Ledges, 
or sixteen miles in all from Savage's, bring one to Fort 
Kent, where good meals and lodging can be had, or 
a supply of camp-stores purchased at reasonable rates. 
An old block-house at the lower end of the town, near 
the junction of the St. John with Fish River, is well 
worth a visit. 

FROM FORT KENT TO EDMUNDSTON 

it is nineteen miles. The first rapids are just above 
and opposite the mouth of Fish River, at Clare's Bar, 
Fish River Rapids being a short mile further down the 
river. Six miles below Fort Kent, Baker River flows 
into the St. John from the north, and several islands 
lie opposite and near its mouth. Three miles below it 
and ten miles from Edmundston is Chatacoin, where 
prominently on the right bank stand a large gray 
church and group of school-buildings. On the oppo- 
site bank is a white church with unfinished steeple. 
It is safe to say that all of the churches on the upper 
St. John are Romish. 

From Chatacoin it is about three miles to Michaud's 
Island and Rapids, and Frenchville, from which point 
a road runs about four miles to the shores of Long 
Lake, the head of one branch of Fish River waters. 
At Michaud's Island the river sweeps to the left, 
making one of those peculiar unruffled descents over 
an inclined plane, often noticed by the canoe-man on 
the Allagash and St. John, and for several miles flows 
almost due north. Settlements become more numer- 



130 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

ous on its banks, and the increased number of churches, 
mills, and well-kept dwellings, with now and then a 
ferry in use, indicate activity and prosperity among the 
French inhabitants. The only remaining quick-water 
to pass is at Rice's Rapids, about half a mile above 
Edmundston. 

EDMUNDSTON 

lies on both sides of the Madawaska River (Matda- 
was-kek, "hedge-hog place "), at its junction with the 
St. John. It was formerly called Little Falls, and takes 
its present name from Governor Sir Edmund Head, 
during whose administration it is said to have been 
incorporated as a towru It has two hotels, and is at 
present the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway, 
and as such the busy centre of the local trade. The 
most interesting feature of the place is the crumbling 
foundation of an old block-house, which picturesquely 
stands on an outcropping ledge of slate in a grove of 
young spruce-trees. 

From here it is thirty-six miles to Grand Falls, 
twenty-two more to the mouth of Tobique River, a 
mile above Andover, where the New Brunswick Rail- 
way crosses the St. John, and fifty more to Woodstock. 
The tourist, however, will probably be ready at Ed- 
mundston to leave the river, which continues to have 
the same general characteristics as during the previous 
twenty or thirty miles, and go by cars to Grand Falls, 
and thence to Woodstock. 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 131 

RfiSUM^. 

Across Allagaskwigamook Lake 5m. 

Chase Carry ^m. 

Chase Carry to Umsaskis Lake 8ni. 

Across Umsaskis Lake 4m. 

Umsaskis Lake to Foot of Long Lake .... 6m. 

Long Lake to Pataquongamis 8m. 

Across Pataquongamis 2m. 

Pataquongamis to Mouth of Musquacook Stream 3m. 
Musquacook Stream to Allagash Falls . . . i5>^m. 
Allagash Falls to Mouth of Allagash River . . 14m. 
Mouth of Allagash to St. Francis River . . . 12m. 

St. Francis River to Fort Kent i6m. 

Fort Kent to Edmundston igni. 

Edmundston to Grand Falls (by rail) .... 36m. 

i49Xm. 
TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 

At Edmundston, tourists who wish to visit the Te- 
miscouata Lake region leave the St. John River and 
paddle up the Madawaska for twenty-three miles, 
through a succession of pools and easy rapids, the 
worst part of the river being that which one can see 
from the bridge at Edmundston. A good road follows 
the right bank of the stream seventy-nine miles to 
Riviere du Loup, and, if one prefers, canoes can be 
hauled up the river to any point desired. Temis- 
couata Lake is of irregular form, twenty-seven miles 
long, and averages a mile and a half to two miles in 
width. A few scattered farms lie on its shores, which 
are still covered with a generous growth of forest trees, 
while high ridges greet the eye in many places, and 
give the landscape a pleasing variety. 

Fifteen miles above Edmundston, or three miles 



132 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

above the boundary between Quebec and New Bruns- 
wick, opposite Griffin's, a logging-road of indifferent 
excellence leads four miles northeasterly into Little 
Mud Lake. This is the head-waters of one branch of 
the Touladi River, which flows in a roundabout course 
into Temiscouata Lake, sixteen miles from its outlet. 
A series of lakes and sluggish streams, it is but little 
higher than Temiscouata Lake, and its descent is very 
gradual and easy, thus offering to the canoe-man a 
plain course and rapid sailing. 

Three-quarters of a mile across Little Mud Lake, 
and one enters Beardsley Brook, which flows eight 
miles into Squatook Stream, and thence two miles into 
Squatook Lake. Ten miles over this lake, and ten 
miles of thoroughfare, bring one to Little Squatook 
Lake, which is six miles long and divided into two 
parts, and near which rise Squatook Peak and Sugar- 
Loaf Mt. One mile of thoroughfare leads into Little 
Lake, across which it is rather more than a mile. 
Then follow a mile and a half of dead-water, to the 
junction of Squatook Stream, with the Grande Fourche, 
or main Touladi, and the west branch of the same. 
From this point it is eight miles to Touladi Lake, six 
miles across it, and four miles down the stream to Tou- 
ladi Falls, a stretch of water almost entirely free from 
rapids. Canoes must be carried around the falls, and 
some rapid water will be found below them, in the 
mile which intervenes between them and Temiscouata 
Lake. 

If one prefers, one can send one's canoe by team to 
Cloutier's on Temiscouata Lake opposite the mouth 
of the Touladi, and go up that stream to the Forks, 



ST. JOHN WATERS. 133 

whence *' poling " must be resorted to, in order to as- 
cend either the West Branch, or the Grande Fourche. 

Trout and whitefish are said to be very abundant 
in this region, and large game is frequently seen there. 
Birch canoes can be bought at Edmundston for ten 
dollars, and guides, white or Indian, can be hired at 
reasonable rates. The round trip from Edmundston 
and return can be made comfortably in a week, or, 
under favorable circumstances, in less time than that. 
Camping outfits should be procured at Edmundston. 

GRAND FALLS, 

an attractive little town on the St. John, two and a half 
or three miles east of the boundary line between New 
Brunswick and Maine, is fast becoming a favorite stop- 
ping-place for summer-travellers through the Provinces, 
and already has a large hotel and the other accompani- 
ments of a growing place of resort. The chief feature 
of the town is, of course, the falls, where the river 
pitches in three successive leaps over a ledge some 
seventy feet or more high, and boils and hisses in its 
onward course down a gorge lined with precipitous 
walls. At the foot of the fall the water has worn away 
the rock to such an extent that logs fifty feet long 
passing over the fall disappear from sight, it is said, for 
several seconds, and shoot up into view again with 
tremendous impetus, often crushed and broken. A 
pretty suspension bridge spans the chasm just below 
the falls, and gives access to the country beyond, through 
which run many attractive roads. 

From Grand Falls one goes by rail to ilroostook 



134 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 

Junction in an hour and a quarter, passing in sight of 
Aroostook Falls, at the mouth of the river. If obliged 
to wait over night for connection to Woodstock, holders 
of through-tickets can ride free on the cars up the 
Aroostook to Fort Fairfield, where there is a good 
hotel, and leave there the next morning for Woodstock 
via Aroostook Junction. (See Railroad time-tables 
among advertisements.) 



EAST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

The route from Moosehead Lake to Apmoojene- 
gamook or Chamberlain Lake has been previously 
described on pages io6 and 107. 

At the southwest end of Apmoojenegamook Lake, 
at the " heel of the boot," is the natural 7noiith of a 
stream which now flows back into Telosmis Lake 
(Pataquongamis). This stream, virtually a thorough- 
fare, is rather wide and nearly half a mile long. Its 
shores and those of Telos and Telosmis Lakes are 
lined with the trunks and roots of dead trees. Telos- 
mis is a mile or more wide, and somewhat longer than 
it is wide, and flows into Telos Lake, from which it is 
separated by only a narrow strip of — dead trees. A 
fine view of Ktaadn, the Trout Brook, and other moun- 
tains is had from these lakes. 

Three miles and a half, or more, take one past and 
around a prominent point of land, where the lake 
begins to narrow, to the cut which was made some 
years ago to connect Telos with Webster Lake. 
What now seems to be the cut proper is a straight 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 135 

canal, only thirty or forty rods long and twenty feet 
or more wide, and at its lower end is the dam, which 
confines and regulates the water of the Chamberlain- 
Telos system. When this cut was first completed, and 
the water allowed to go through it, the latter soon 
washed away the soil from the bottom of the ravine 
which leads down to Webster Lake, and its course 
now resembles that of any natural brook, being broad 
and rocky. Springer, in his " Forest Life and Forest^ 
Trees," says : "Originally the canal was three hundred 
rods long by four wide, and four feet deep ; but the 
strong current of water flowing through, at the rate of 
one mile in twenty minutes, has changed the regu- 
larity of the channel to a more natural and stream-like 
appearance." According to the theories of geologists, 
the course of the waters of Telos and Apmoojenega- 
mook, or Chamberlain, Lakes, was through this ravine 
before our continent was submerged, and those lakes 
were then very small, or did not exist at all. The 
ocean-currents, however, deposited so much detritus 
at the foot of Telos Lake, that when the country rose 
again, the waters were turned back, formed the two 
lakes just mentioned, and flowed over into Pongokwa- 
hemook, or Eagle, and Allagaskwigamook, or Churchill, 
Lake basins, and thence down the Allagash River into 
the St. John. (Perhaps due rather to glacial action.) 

A canoe without load can run from the dam down 
to Webster Lake at almost any time in summer, but 
usually not without difficulty. The water is rapid and 
the channel tortuous. The road, a good one in the 
main, but soft here and there, runs on the right of the 
brook through the old Dvvinel farm, thence along 



136 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

the south shore of Webster Lake past the dam, and 
down the stream to Trout Brook Farm and the outlet 
of Matangamook Lake. 

WEBSTER LAKE 

is a very narrow body of water, two and a half miles 
long, and its shores are no better than those of the lakes 
above, the north shore being a series of burnt ledges, 
while all are lined with a confused mass of drift-wood. 
An abundance of small trout can usually be taken at 
the dam. Webster Brook is a turbulent stream, and 
on its course of eight or nine miles there are a great 
many "pitches" and much shallow water, and in or- 
dinary summer-seasons more or less wading will have 
to be done and hard work undergone to accomplish 
its passage. Grand Falls, less than a mile from its 
mouth, if not the highest, is by all odds the finest water- 
fall on the entire East Branch. The main ''pitch," 
without the rapids immediately above it, is twelve feet 
high, and from below one has a striking view of the 
foil and some high rock ledges beyond it. A suc- 
cession of pretty cascades lie below the principal fall, 
and are worth seeing. 

" Indian Carry " leads from Grand Falls one hundred 
and eighty rods over to the main(?) East Branch, a 
stream much smaller than AVebster Brook, and comes 
out on its bank about an eighth of a mile above the 
junction of the two streams. A good run of a little 
over a mile takes one past some good duck-ground 
into Matangamooksis, or Second Lake. 

If the canoe-man's course be now towards the 
Aroostook River, he must toil up the main East 
Branch (sometimes called Thissell Brook), nearly one 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 137 

half of a mile through rapid water to a dam, and about 
two miles beyond, through dead-water and past a fall, 
to the mouth of Bog Brook. After wading a few rods 
up the brook a good "carry" will be found on the 
left, which runs about a mile to a large beaver-dam, 
from which for a mile and a half a canoe can be pad- 
dled up the brook to a bog. From this point the 
tourist may find a "spotted line" which runs over 
high ground on the right, and which will lead him in 
two miles and a half to Milnokett Pond. It is another 
mile and a half over the pond to the thoroughfare, a 
few rods through the latter, four miles and a half over 
Milnokett Lake to the dam and outlet, and four miles 
and a half more down the stream to the junction with 
Munsungan Stream. (Seepage 112.) 

MATANGAMOOKSIS LAKE 

is three miles long, and from its bosom the Trout 
Brook and Traveller Mts., which have long been hidden 
from the tourist's view, come again into prominence, 
and seem to accompany him on his journey down the 
river, from which circumstance the latter group take 
their name. Matangamook Mt., the finest and most 
conspicuous peak, lies west of Matangamook, or Grand 
Lake. 

The thoroughfare between Second Lake and Grand 
Lake is four miles or more long, and leaves the former 
at the right of the rocky bluff near its foot. It flows 
sluggishly between grassy banks, widens here and there 
into broad " logons," — enticing ground for game, large 
and small, — and finally merges into the larger lake. 



138 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

About half a mile from the head of the thoroughfare 
Hay Brook empties into it from the east. At its 
mouth the banks are high, but half a mile above they 
recede, and wide grassy meadows appear, which in 
times of high water are submerged and form a shallow 
"logon" several miles in extent. A similar "logon" 
on the same side of the stream, lower down, erroneously 
serves, on some maps, as the outlet of Hay Brook, and 
has been dignified with the name of " lake." Except 
in seasons of high water this " lake," according to the 
testimony of men that have worked near it for years, 
is simply a piece of swampy meadow land. Two miles 
and a half below Hay Brook the tote-road from Webster 
Lake crosses the stream over a floating bridge, around 
which canoes must be carried. From this point a 
branch-road runs a mile and a half to Trout Brook 
Farm, where provisions can be obtained. 
Another mile of paddling takes one to 

MATANGAMOOK, OR GRAND LAKE, 

which is, on the whole, a more attractive body of water 
than those previously traversed. Its shores are in 
some places high and consequently more interesting, 
and on the tourist's left, as he enters it, lie several 
islets and a very pretty island of larger dimensions, 
from whose rocky top a fine view is had of the lake 
and surrounding mountains. " Louse Island " is the 
pleasing name given to this spot. A mile up Trout 
Brook on the left is the landing of Trout Brook 
Farm, a farm which has been cultivated since 1837. 
The tote-road runs from here to Patten, thirty-four 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 139 

miles, crossing the floating bridge before mentioned. 
At the mouth of the brook fine trout may still be taken 
in the season. 

It is not more than three miles across Matangamook 
Lake to the dam, and on the right, near the outlet, 
one passes Moose Cliff, and near the dam a rocky 
point which, with the water, makes a pretty fore- 
ground to the mountains beyond. Lifting over the dam 
one comes again into quick-water, which, however, is 
not hard to run. It is nearly a mile to Bill Fish Brook, 
on the right, where good fishing can be had ; thence 
i^ miles to Webster's Landing, on a high bank on 
the left ; thence nearly two miles more tlirough quiet 
water between fine hard-wood forests to Stair Falls. 
This stretch of water is particularly pleasing. The 
stream is rather wide, and sweeps now and then to the 
right or left, disclosing a bit of grassy shore lined with 
lily-pads, and above it a fine prospect of the Traveller 
Mts. A few rapids are easily run just above 

STAIR FALLS, 

where, should the water be low, canoes must be carried, 
as the river-bed is filled with sharp ledges of sand- 
stone. The " carry " is on the right bank, and is little 
more than an eighth of a mile long. Just below the 
falls there is a good spring near an old pine-stump. 
The falls are best appreciated from below, and show 
two sets of steps, over and beyond which Matanga- 
mook Mt. looms up, six miles away to the north. 

Leaving Stair Falls, the river soon widens again, and 
in its sluggish course forms grassy " logons " on either 
side almost to Haskell Rock and Pitch, one mile be- 



I40 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 

low. Here there are two principal " pitches " in the 
river, neither of which can be run. The " carry " 
extends along the right bank past both pitches, and 
is one hundred rods long. The formation is a coarse 
conglomerate. 

GRAND FALLS — EAST BRANCH. 

Rips and quick-water intervene for two thirds of a 
mile to Pond Pitch, where there is a short " carry " on 
each side, that on the right being 17 rods long. An- 
other strong half mile of quick-water brings one to 
Grand Pitch and rapids below. The water here rushes 
over a broken ledge of grits and clay-slate some twenty 
feet high, and flows between two walls which extend 
a few rods to the end of the " carry." The latter is 
on the left bank, and is forty-five rods long. Three- 
quarters of a mile of rapid water intervene between 
Grand Pitch and Hulling Machine Falls, the '•' carry " 
around the latter lying on the left bank and being 
about ninety rods long. The river here makes a 
double turn, and the falls consist of a series of heavy 
*' pitches " close together, not so high as Grand Pitch, 
but well worth seeing, the mountains up the stream 
adtling much to the grace of the picture. 

Smoother water occurs immediately below Hulling 
Machine Falls, two miles, past Bowlin Ledges to Bow- 
lin Falls, where the river curves and flows around a 
rocky island and some isolated rocks. Gravel-beds 
predominate here, and while it is an easy stretch of 
water to go down, it is quite hard to go up it, on ac- 
count of the current. The " carry," about a hundred 
yards long, lies on the right bank, but canoes can 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 141 

usually run the falls, which are but a succession of 
" rips " and small '' pitches." BowHn Stream joins the 
river at the foot of Bowlin Falls. The four falls last 
named, Pond Pitch, Grand Pitch, Hulling Machine 
Falls, and Bowlin Falls, are sometimes collectively 
known as Grand Falls of the East Branch, to distin- 
guish them from their namesake on Webster Brook. 
By at least one writer * Grand Falls is said to embrace, 
in addition to those just named, the others up to and 
including Stair Falls. 

Below Bowlin Falls there is some quick-water, and 
a mile and a half below them Spring Brook joins the 
river from the west behind one of two large islands. At 
and below Bowlin Stream granite boulders occur in the 
river. Soldiers' Field Rips and Spencer Rips are passed 
in quick succession, followed by more quick-water. 
Opposite Spencer Rips the river banks converge and 
are covered with a black growth. Above and below 
they open again and hard- wood appears. From Spring 
Brook and Soldiers' Field Rips the view down the river 
is very pretty. Lunksoos Mt. looms up in the distance. 
Twin Islands and Sufferers' Rock follow next, then four 
islands, opposite the lowest of which, on the right, is 
Hathorn's High Landing. Lunksoos Brook joins the 
river on the east just above a ridge that separates it 
from the Seboois. From this point, which is o\cr 
eleven miles from Bowlin Falls, it is three and a half 
miles to the mouth of the Seboois River {Sipoo, "river," 
and es^ diminutive, " little river*') over a stretch of dead- 
water which continues to Patterson's on the left bank, 

* Trof. C. II. Hitchcock. Report of the Secretary of the 
Maine Board of Agriculture for 1861, p. 401. 



142 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

three miles below. From Patterson's it is three-quarters 
of a mile to the mouth of Wassataquoik Stream. 

The name Wassataquoik, or Wassa-tegwe-wick, ac- 
cording to the Indians, belongs properly to the main 
East Branch of the Penobscot from Nickatow (the 
"Great Forks ") up to and possibly beyond the mouth 
of the stream which now bears the name. That the 
two forms are identical in meaning seems probable, 
although the writer understands their identity of ap- 
plication to be denied by one of the oldest Hving 
members of the Penobscot tribe, who insists that 
Wassa-tegw^-wick is the name of the main stream, 
while Wassataquoik is that of the smaller one. Fur- 
ther investigation may solve the difficulty. "Wassa- 
tegwe-wick " comes from wassay, " to take fish by 
torchlight " (Rale), tegwe, " stream " (Rale), and wick, 
a form of the locative, — "at the stream where they 
take fish by torchlight," or, more broadly, " at the 
salmon-spearing stream." (See Appendix, 1893.) 

Opposite Patterson's (the old Dacey farm) the 
road to Mt. Ktaadn leaves the river and runs for some 
distance along Wassataquoik Stream. Three-quarters 
of a mile below the mouth of the stream on the oppo- 
site bank is the Hunt farm, formerly kept by Patterson, 
but recently bought by S. B. Gates. It is here that 
visitors to Ktaadn used to cross the river and take the 
road opposite, to the mouth of Wassataquoik Stream, 
which they also had to cross. 

Below the Hunt farm three miles of deep but not 
sluggish water bring one to Whetstone Falls, which 
consist of two " pitches " a hundred rods apart. These 
rapids are caused by the water flowing over blocks of 
granite. Canoes can run the upper, and usually the 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 143 

lower " pitch," although they may have to be "dropped" 
over one bad place with the aid of the *' painter." 
There is a good path on the right, and easy walking on 
the left. From Whetstone Falls to the mouth of Mud 
Brook, nine miles, the water, except for a mile, past 
Burnt Land Rips, is smooth and canoeing easy. Three 
miles more of very pretty country with a short string of 
rapids intervene before Grindstone Falls are reached. 
The carries are nearly a mile long, on both the right and 
left banks. The falls consist of a succession of " pitches," 
which cover perhaps a mile or more, and in the aggre- 
gate make quite a descent. The formation along the river 
is strata of clay-slate, grits, and quartz tipped on edge, 
and very sharp and ragged, while here and there are 
scattered boulders of granite which add to the difficulties 
of navigation. However, it is possible by wading, and 
by letting canoes down with the "painter," to accom- 
plish the passage at some seasons without "carrying." 

From Grindstone Falls to Ledge Falls it is six miles. 
Rocky Rips and Scratch Rips are passed during the 
first half of the distance, the river being otherwise 
almost entirely free from rapids. 

Houses and farms begin to appear at Scratch Rips, 
and grow more numerous in the two and a quarter 
miles between Ledge Falls and Medway. These falls 
can be run by canoes, if care is taken to keep out of 
the " boil " of the water and avoid swamping. 

Medway, or Nickatow, is at the junction of the two 
branches of the Penobscot, and it is twelve miles from 
there to Mattawamkeag. 

Patterson calls it twenty-four miles from his house 
to Matangamook Lake, and twenty-three to Nickatow, 
— the entire distance being forty-seven miles. 



144 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

For wildness and picturesqueness of scenery this 
route is equal to, or perhaps surpasses, that down the 
Ket-tegwe-wick or West Branch of the Penobscot, if we 
except the gorge on the latter below Ripogenus Lake. 
Its falls are on the whole much finer than those on the 
West Branch. It is fully as difficult as the other route, 
and offers many a good trout-pool, and not infrequently 
an opportunity to secure large game. It is a strange 
fact, however, that among all the mountains visible 
from its course Ktaadn does not once appear. Was- 
sataquoik and Lunksoos Mts., the latter 1,378* feet 
above the river, are prominent above Hunt's, on the 
west side of the Wassa-tegw^-wicko 

It takes ordinarily four days or even less to go from 
Matangamooksis Lake to Nickatow. 

RfiSUMlfi. 

Apmoojenegamook Lake (Mouth of Mud Br.) 

to Telosmis Lake 6m. 

Telosmis Lake to Telos Dam A%^^' 

Telos Cut im. 

Webster Lake 2j4m. 

Webster Lake Dam to Indian Carry .... 8m. 
Indian Carry to Matangamooksis Lake . . . 2m. 
Head of Mat'sis L. to Head Matangamook L. 7m. 

Across Matangamook Lake 3m. J 

Matangamook Dam to Stair Falls .... 4/^801. "1 
" " liill Fish Brook . >/m. I 

Bill Fish Brook to Webster Landing . i^siri. \ i day. 

Webster Landing to Stair Falls . . . 2m. 
Stair Falls to Haskell Rock Pitch .... im. 
Haskell Rock Pitch " Carry " /^m. 

" " to Bowlin Falls . . 4/^m. 

" " to Pond Pitch . . ;^m. 

Pond Pitch to Grand I'itch ^m. 

Grand Pitch to Hulling Machine Falls . ^si^i- 
Hulling Machine Falls to Bowlin Falls 2^m. 

* According to the late Professor Hamlin. 



1 

i- 1 day. 

I day. 



1. 



day. 



J 



I day. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 14S 



^ I day. 



Bowlin Falls to Seboois River \\}im. 

" " to Lunksoos Brook . . iiXm- 
Lunksoos Brook to Seboois River . . 3/^m. 

Seboois River to Patterson's 3m. 

Patterson's to Whetstone Falls 3m. 

Whetstone Falls to Burnt Land Rips . . . 3m. 
Head of Burnt Land Rips to Mud Brook . . 6m. , 

Mud Brook to Crowfoot Falls im. "1 

Crowfoot Falls to Grindstone Falls . . . i^m. | 

Head of Grindstone Falls to Rocky Rips . is^^m. )- }4 day. 

Rocky Rips to Ledge Falls 4^it»- | 

Ledge Falls to Nickatow 2)^1x1. J 



851 



KATAHDIN IRON^WORKS. 



This township is northwest of Brownville, and the 
focus of the mining operations carried on in it is on 
Ore Mt. and at a small pond a mile east of it, whose 
Indian name, or rather that of the West Branch of 
Pleasant River, which flows through it, is by Green- 
leaf* given as Mien' -ola77i' moti-un' gun, "very fine paint, 
or place where it is found, or great quantity of it." 
From a recent christening this pond is called " Silver 
Lake," and it is about 604 feet above sea-level. At 
its outlet are the blast-furnace and charcoal-kilns of 
the Katahdin Iron Company, while on the opposite 
or west side of the stream is the Silver Lake Hotel, 
recently enlarged and refitted, — a pleasant stopping- 
place for the constantly growing throng of health-seekers 
and tourists, who are but now beginning to appreciate 
the natural attractions of this vicinity. 

* Report of American Society for Promoting Civilization of 
the Indian Tribes, 1824. 



146 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Milo Station is the southern terminus of the Bangor 
and Katahdin Iron Works Railway, a standard gauge 
road, now operated by and forming a part of the Bangor 
and Piscataquis R. R. From Milo Station the road 
runs six miles, past Brownville, its northern terminus 
in 188 1, to the Iron Works, connecting daily with the 
regular trains to and from Bangor and Moosehead 
Lake. At North Brownville it also connects with the 
International Railroad, for Mattawamkeag on the east, 
and Greenville and Montreal on the west. 

From Milo Station to Milo Village it is a mile and a 
half, and four or five miles from the latter place to 
Brownville, according as one takes the straight road 
over a high hill or the more level road east of the former, 
which crosses Pleasant River and turns northwest along 
its left bank. Brownville Village is scattered, so to 
speak, among a number of little hills, dotted with 
groups of pretty shade-trees, and within its limits are 
some of the oldest slate-quarries in this section of 
Maine, still in active operation. 

From Brownville the wagon-road to the Iron-Works 
soon climbs a hill, and discloses to view the pretty 
valley of Pleasant River below, and the mountains, 
which are now rapidly approaching from the northwest, 
their chain extending from Ebeeme (pronounced Eb- 
ee-my) on the east to Boarstone on the extreme west. 

Seven miles from Brownville, or half-way between 
that village and the Iron-Works, the road enters the 
" Prairie," a wide flat tract of ground at the confluence 
of the three branches of Pleasant River, — East, 
Middle, and West. A mile beyond, or at the upper 
end of the " Prairie," the road crosses the Middle 
Branch, haviner Dreviouslv crossed the East Branch 



PENOBSCOT WATERS, 147 

half a mile above its junction with the West Branch, 
and enters the woods. Six miles more of execrable 
riding bring one to the Iron-Works hotel, store, fur- 
nace, and settlement. 

From this point and from farther up the valley fine 
views are had of Saddlerock, White Cap, Spruce, 
Baker, and Chairback Mountains, a succession of peaks 
which give to the place its chief charm. Far to the 
east is Ebeeme Mt. with its rounded top, next to 
which, northwest, is 

SADDLEROCK MT., 

3,054 ft. high,* whose summit is between six and a half 
and seven miles from the hotel. Three-quarters of a 
mile east of the summit, and only a little below it, is a 
pretty little pond between two cliffs which flank it on 
the north and south. Saddlerock may be ascended 
from the west by following an old road which leaves 
the Brownville road a quarter of a mile below the hotel, 
or from the north by following the Chesuncook road 
around the west end of the mountain. The mountain 
hes nearly east and west, and from the west looks quite 
peaked. 

Next towards the west is Litde Spruce Mt., 3,274 
feet high, with the twin Spruce Mt. Ponds at its 
southern base, 1,802 feet above sea-level. North of it 
is old 

* The elevations given here and elsewhere in these pages, 
except when otherwise stated, are calculated from observations 
made by the writer with a Green's mountain barometer on the 
several peaks, simultaneously with others made by President 
M. F. Fernald at Orono, in July and August, 18S1. 



148 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

WHITE CAP, 

the monarch of the group, 3,707 feet above the sea, its 
rounded dome covered with bare patches of mica-schist 
detritus and rock in place, alternating with scrub- 
spruce and other stunted vegetation. West of it ex- 
tends a spur divided into two peaks, and southwest is 
Big Spruce Mt., all of which must be considerably over 
3,000 feet high. The main summit of White Cap is four- 
teen or fifteen miles, by road, from the Iron-Works hotel, 
and is best reached from this point by taking the " Gulf" 
road for five miles to White Brook, along whose 
rapidly descending course a branch road comes down 
from Gaffney's Camp (1880). This road, although 
steep in some places, is uniformly good (or was in 
1881), and leads to within two miles or less of the 
summit. Gaffney's logging-camp in 1881 was on this 
road, four miles from the summit, and Clark's three 
and a half miles below that. From both Saddlerock 
and White Cap fine views are bad of the surrounding 
country, not the least of which is that of Ktaadn and 
Joe Merry Mt., there being no intervening ridges or 
peaks to belittle them. 

On the other side of Pleasant River, and somewhat 
more than two miles from the hotel, is 

CHAIRBACK MT., 

with its three principal peaks, of which that peak which 
forms the top or back of the " chair " is 2,2 1 9 ft., and the 
next peak, southwest, is 2,371 ft. above sea-level. The 
most practicable route to the summit lies two miles up 
the " Gulf" road to " the Farm," where one can cross the 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 149 

river by means of a rope -ferry. Entering the woods, 
one may, if fortunate, find a " spotted line " leading 
up to a sort of table-land which runs along the north 
side of the mountain, about two hundred feet below 
the summit. A short, steep climb takes one up to the 
summit. From this point good views are had of the 
northern and eastern mountain-peaks and a broad sweep 
of open country to the south and east. North Chairback 
Pond lies nearly west. From the next peak, a mile or 
more to the southwest, Long Pond, West Chairback, 
and the small ponds on the Houston head-waters are 
near at hand, with Benson, Boarstone, Barren, Ele- 
phant, Lyford, Baker, and other mountains near Moose- 
head Lake conspicuous. The formation of the north 
peak of Chairback is mica-schist, which changes, about 
half-way across the second peak, into granite. One 
day is enough in which to make the ascent of Saddle- 
rock or Chairback and return to the hotel, and two 
days for that of White Cap. 

Big Houston Pond lies southeast of Chairback Mt., 
with Round Mt. and Houston Mt. east of it, the latter 
lying between Big and Little Houston Ponds. Little 
Houston Pond is two miles from the hotel, by a good 
road partly over Ore Mt., which road continues two 
miles further to the dam at Big Houston Pond. An- 
other path to the head of the latter pond runs west 
through an old clearing, and diverges from the main 
road a quarter of a mile from Little Houston Pond. 

ORE MT., 

one mile from the hotel, is a small eminence, and is 
reached over an easy but dusty road, and by paths 



150 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

leading from it. A number of excavations, none of 
them very deep, are being made, and from them the ore, 
which lies in beds nearly horizontal, is taken to the 
furnace below. The ore is a limonite, the result of the 
oxidation of a singular formation of pyritiferous rock, 
which on exposure to the air gives off a light smoke. 
Several springs near the top of the hill discharge water 
highly impregnated with iron and copperas, some of 
them so much so as to be extremely nauseating, and 
the extent to which the mining is continued seems to 
affect the character and taste of the water. 

From Ore Mt. a pretty prospect opens out before 
the beholder. The intervale below, with its bright 
patches of cultivated land, " Silver Lake's " extended 
waters nestling passively among the forests, and on 
all sides lofty and imposing mountain-peaks, near and 
distant, varying in their lights and shadows, make a 
scene of ever increasing interest. 

From the Iron-Works a road leads north along 
Saddlerock Brook past B Pond, which is ten miles 
away. There is said to be good trout-fishing here, and 
at one time caribou frequented the shores of the pond 
in large droves. Indeed, on the summits of many of 
the neighboring mountains are well-worn paths made 
by these animals, which still rove through the woods, 
when not disturbed by the loggers' presence. 

Perhaps the greatest natural curiosity in this section 
of Maine is a gorge known as 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 151 

THE GULF. 
It is a narrow chasm some three and a half miles 
long, through which flows the West Branch of Pleasant 
River, the " Mun-olam'mon-un'gun." From the hotel 
a good road runs along the west side of *' Silver Lake," 
and beyond it for half a mile along the top of a 
" kame " or " horseback," about thirty feet high, which 
has a brook on one side and a low meadow on the 
other. This *' kame " is north of the river and about 
midway of the valley. From the hotel to a large clear- 
ing known as " the Farm "it is two miles, and rather 
more than a mile beyond to the edge of the forest, 
near where three townships corner, the road by the 
way touching the river at Horse Eddy. At the end 
of another mile is an old logging-camp, from which 
branches off the road up White Brook to White Cap. 
Two miles more bring one to Pugwash, a small " logon " 
opposite the foot of the Gulf. The road thus far 
has been passable for buckboards ; the latter half of it, 
however, is very rough, and one can better walk than 
ride over it. Rather more than a mile above the foot 
of the Gulf the road crosses a bridge under which 
flows 

GULF HAGAS STREAM. 

This little brook is a gem. For a quarter of a mile 
below the bridge it is an alternation of bright sparkling 
cascades and shady pools. The fall of land in its bed 
between the bridge and river must be one hundred and 
twenty-five feet, and there are no less than seven or 
eight " pitches," varying in height from four to twenty- 
six feet, some falling over the ledges in an even mass, 



152 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

others divided into two or three branches or arms, and 
others still, broken in their fall by obstructing rocks, — 
all of them, when over four feet high, as white as milk. 
The most interesting one is " Screw- Auger " Fall, the 
third from the bridge. It is twenty-six feet high, the 
entire body of water passing through a part of the rock 
about four feet wide, which it has worn into the shape 
of an S. The water strikes the lower part of the S with 
such force that it is precipitated about twelve feet in 
a plane at right angles with the wall. Just below it is a 
pool surrounded on three sides by a square chamber 
of perpendicular walls, — a great curiosity. The walls 
of this miniature gulf are ragged, and in many places 
a descent to the water's edge is dangerous and in others 
impossible, while in only a few is it at all practicable. 

The main road in no place comes within sight of 
the river, but branches lead from it, here and there, to 
" landings " used by the loggers, from which to roll their 
logs into the stream. One of these branches, over 
half a mile above Gulf Hagas, leads down to what has 
been dubbed " Hammond Street Pitch," a precipitous 
bank some ninety feet high, with a ledge or shelf five 
feet wide jutting out two-thirds of the way down its 
side. The view from here is quite impressive. The 
stream foams and froths down its straight course of 
eighty rods or more, while the opposite cliff, with its 
profile of the "Old Man," rises perhaps sixty feet 
higher, or to a total height of one hundred and fifty 
feet above the stream. The latter turns sharply to the 
south at its base, and soon again to the east, flowing 
past the end of a rounded spur or ridge of solid slate, 
which extends back some thirty or forty rods from the 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 153 

Stream, and rises gradually from a height of sixty feet 
or more some hundred feet additional. This is proba- 
bly the highest part of the Gulf; that is, the cliffs are 
here highest above the bed of the stream. 

From this point a good path runs over the ledges 
above the stream, and from it many points of interest 
below can be reached where the cliffs descend abruptly 
to the stream, while at others they are too precipitous 
to admit of descending them or of walking along their 
base. 

A mile above Gulf Hagas is a logging-camp (1880), 
the name of which appears on a painted sign, nailed 
high up to the trunk of a small birch-tree, — "Gulf 
House." A few rods from here a rustic bridge has 
been thrown over the river some twenty-five or thirty 
feet above its bed, for the use of the " river-drivers." 
From this bridge to the head of the Gulf it is about a 
mile and a quarter, and one point of interest succeeds 
another at short intervals along the entire distance. 
First in order, and visible from the bridge, is a re- 
markable full-front face of an Indian, formed by the 
overhanging cliff on the south side of the stream. 
This rock is one side of what is called the " Lower 
Jaws," a point made memorable by the death of an 
Indian who was killed there in May, 1882, in a "jam" 
of logs. A short distance above, at the " Main 
Jaws " the channel was only seven feet and seven 
inches wide, until blasted out to a width of twenty- 
six feet. 

A few rods from this point is Duck Pitch, about 
fifteen feet high, over which the water pours with great 
force, being churned to the consistency of buttermilk. 



154 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

A short distance above this fall is another very narrow 
passage, where before it was blasted out the channel 
of the stream for ten feet could not have been more 
than five feet wide, and below it a pool and eddy have 
eaten into the chffs and formed an irregular chamber 
with overhanging walls. The contraction of the oppos- 
ing walls at this point is known as the " Upper Jaws," 
and from the ledge on the north side may be seen, 
lower down, on the opposite side, a pretty good pro- 
file of an individual wearing a cap with a long and 
clumsy visor. Next above is Billing's Fall, sixteen feet 
high, which with the "pitch " just above it makes one 
of the prettiest sights of the Gulf, and is well seen from 
a high cliff just below it, a few steps from the path. A 
few rods above here and around the bend are Stair 
Falls, the head of the Gulf. 

The formation along this remarkable chasm is slate. 
Rocks jagged and rounded, cliffs perpendicular and 
overhanging the stream, the former where the cleavage 
is parallel with, and the latter where it is at right angles 
to, its course ; huge blocks stripped off and lying in 
confusion below, others partly detached from the par- 
ent mass and separated just enough to leave an ugly 
chasm between ; rounded spurs sloping down to the 
water, solid masses, patched with moss and lichens, — 
all these hard and rugged ledges covered with a scat- 
tered growth of fir and spruce, — such are the charac- 
teristics of the Gulf. In places the tourist can find a 
difficult descent to the water's edge, where he will get 
a much better impression of the marvels of the place, 
and from its many pools he may take an abundance of 
fine trout. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 155 

The Gulf road leads up the stream past Baker Mt. 
to Big Lyford Pond and the West Branch Ponds at its 
head, some ten or twelve miles distant. These waters, 
heretofore practically inaccessible, abound in trout. 

From the foot of the Gulf, on the south side of the 
river, a fairly good path leads two miles to 

LONG POND, 

the main source of Sebec River, and the home of the 
trout and land-locked salmon. It is a pretty lake, 
three and a half miles long, affording many fine views 
of distant mountains, and runs nearly to the base of 
Barren Mt., around which its waters are discharged 
to the south and west. A thoroughfare separates the 
upper or principal part from the lower and narrower 
part, and a short stretch of quick-water intervenes 
before the end of the pond and the dam are reached. 
From here it is about three miles through the woods to 
Indian Pond (otherwise called " Rum " Pond) ; thence 
three miles more to Greenville over a good wagon- 
road. A path leads from the dam down the stream to 
EUiotsville and Monson. 

EBEEME PONDS AND EAST BRANCH OF 
PLEASANT RIVER. 

A mile beyond Brownville a branch-road leads to 
Schoodic Lake, and also into a logging-road, which in 
turn runs past Lower Ebeeme Ponds to Jo Merry 
Lakes. A pair of horses could formerly haul canoes 
and luggage through from Brownville to ^Vest Jo 
Merry Lake in one day, but such a feat is now impos- 
sible, owing to the badness of the road. 



156 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

The upper and lower Ebeeme ponds lie about four 
miles apart, measured on the east branch of Pleasant 
River, which flows through them before its junction 
with the other branches. A canoe can be paddled and 
poled up the connecting stream for two miles without 
much difficulty, but above that point will have to be 
carried half a mile, and poled the rest of the way to 
the upper pond. The ponds and surrounding country 
are quite picturesque, several wooded mountain peaks 
being near at hand on either side. 

The lower group of ponds consists of West Ebeeme, 
connected by a narrow thoroughfare with Horseshoe 
Pond, into which empties, by a small brook on the 
north, Pearl Pond, and on the east. East Ebeeme Pond, 
the latter being three-quarters of a mile from Schoodic 
Lake, and connected with it by a good path. There 
are numerous coves and inlets around the shores of 
these ponds, which, besides being pretty, make good 
shooting-ground. A good farm, cultivated by Elisha 
Norton, lies on the Jo Merry road near Schoodic 
Lake. 

Into the Upper Ebeeme empties, on the north, 
Wongun Brook, which for two miles from its mouth is 
navigable by canoes. From the head of the dead- 
water a good road leads into the Jo Merry road, and 
it is only four miles to Jo Merry Lake. 

Horace Falls, two miles above Upper Ebeeme, is a 
pretty little cascade fifteen feet or more high, with a 
small island perched in the middle of it. 

On the East Branch of Pleasant River, six miles 
above upper Ebeeme pond, there is a gorge similar to 
the Gulf, and called the "Gauntlet," — very wild, but 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 157 

not quite equal, either in extent or picturesqueness, to 
the former. A tote-road runs from Lower Ebeeme 
pond, from the mouth of Babel Brook, to the Gauntlet. 
Persons who visit Ebeeme Ponds leave the stage 
at the house of William Tufts, at the " Prairie," seven 
miles from Brownville. 



SEBEC LAKE 



(same as Sebaygook, " large body of water "), an oddly 
shaped lake, and in some respects a pretty one, 
lies near the line of the Bangor and Piscataquis Rail- 
road, and can be reached conveniently by either of 
three routes. The first is by way of South Sebec, 
the second lies through Foxcroft, and the third leaves 
Monson Station (formerly Abbot), — all stations on 
the B. & P. R. R. 

From South Sebec to Sebec Corner is a mile and a 
half, and thence it is three miles and a half to Sebec 
Village at the extreme end of the lower lake, or 
" Pond," though some people call it two and three miles 
respectively. About three-quarters of a mile before 
reaching the village the road forks, the right branch 
lying straight over Moulton Hill, and the left one cir- 
cling around its base. From Moulton Hill, and from 
other points on the road, fine views can be had of 
Saddlerock, White Cap, Chairback, and other moun- 
tains to the north and east, and in clear days of 
Ktaadn also ; while off to the west rises Boarstone, 
a rugged, peaked mass. Stages to Sebec Village con- 
nect with the regular trains of the railroad. Fare, 
twenty-five cents. 



158 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

From Foxcroft one can go by private conveyance, 
or stage, at 7 a. m., due north four miles and a half to 
Blethen Landing, at the west end of the lower pond. 
There is a saw-mill here, and several farm-houses 
where one can get a meal if needed, and await the 
arrival of the steamer, which is due at 8.15 a. m. The 
fare from Foxcroft to the head of the lake is fifty cents, 
or about a dollar if by private conveyance. 

The road from Monson Station leads through a 
pretty and more or less cultivated valley, nine miles 
to the Lake House, at the mouth of Wilson Stream. 
At last accounts no regular stage ran over this road 
oftener than once a week ; and should the visitor select 
this route, which in some respects is preferable to the 
other two, he will have to depend on private conveyance 
from Monson, which place he will reach by railroad. 

Blueberries grow in profusion near Sebec Lake, es- 
pecially on Granite Mt. on the western shore ; and 
during the time when they are ripe a small steamer 
makes the round trip up and down the lake every day, 
and runs pretty regularly during the rest of the summer- 
season, say from July 25 th to September ist, leaving 
Sebec Village in the morning and returning from Wil- 
son Stream in the afternoon."^ Campers will find the 
ordinary articles of an outfit at Sebec Village, and at 
reasonable prices ; but guides are scarce, and canoes 
not to be had anywhere on the lake, unless by the 
courtesy of some inhabitant, who may happen to own 
one for which he has no immediate use. Mr. Frank 
M. Ford, at the village, owns a sail-boat which is gen- 
erally at the service of visiting sportsmen. 

* At present discontinued. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 159 

In the spring, when the ice first breaks up, the fish- 
ing at Sebec Lake is quite good at the outlet of the 
lake, at the mouth of Ship Pond Stream in Buck's 
Cove, and up Wilson Stream as far as the falls. Land- 
locked salmon abound in its waters, and furnish capital 
sport to the angler ; but their " run " lasts only a short 
time, and during the summer the fisherman must be 
content with pickerel and white perch. 

Sebec Village was settled about 1802, and incorpo- 
rated in 1 81 2, and the visitor must therefore be pre- 
pared to see more or less cultivation on the shores of 
the lake. A good road runs up the north side of the 
lower pond, some five or six miles, past a number of 
farms, while the south side seems to be still an un- 
broken forest. The lake is eleven or twelve miles long, 
the lower part being narrow and rather commonplace. 
From the village it is three miles to Little Pine Island, 
which consists of eight stumps, one cedar bush, and a 
lot of drift-wood. One mile beyond is Big Pine Island, 
whence it is three miles to the Narrows. The latter 
are about forty-five rods wide, and from thence the 
upper or main lake opens to view with its hilly western 
shore, and Boarstone and Barren Mts. prominent at 
the north. 

The shores of the upper part of the main lake are 
one mass of granite blocks, and are covered with a 
hard-wood growth ; and only at and near the mouth 
of Ship Pond Stream and on Green Point, three-quar- 
ters of a mile below it, and a mile and a quarter from 
Wilson Stream, 'can good camping-ground be found. 
An old deserted fish-hatching-house stands at the 
mouth of Ship Pond Stream, just below the falls and 



l6o TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

an old burnt dam. From it an old decayed tramway 
leads up the west bank of the stream, a mile and a 
quarter, to the quarry of the Howard Slate Co., aban- 
doned some years ago. 

Besides the lake there are a number of ponds and 
streams near by, where the angler will be much more 
likely to find fish than in the lake. One of these is 
Buttermilk Pond, which is accessible over two good 
roads which lead from two " landings," one above and 
the other below a burnt ledge on the east shore of 
Buck's Cove. The lower road takes one, after ten 
minutes' walking, almost within sight of Bear Pond, 
a pretty httle lakelet half a mile wide. A mile beyond 
Bear Pond this road runs through a clearing filled 
with sawdust and trimmings made by cutting up birch 
for spools ; thence a mile and a half more to the 
east end or head of First Buttermilk Pond, the lat- 
ter part of the way through a fine beech and maple 
grove. 

BUTTERMILK POND 

is two miles long, and rather narrow except where a 
cove indents the south shore, midway of its length. 
The road touches the pond soon after leaving Sawdust 
Clearing. The upper end of this pond, near the inlet, 
is said to be a rare spot for trout and land-locked 
salmon, in the season. The outlet is three-quarters of 
a mile long to its junction with Ship Pond Stream, and 
for the last half-mile of its course tumbles over innu- 
merable slate-ledges, making one of the prettiest suc- 
cession of falls in that section of country, some of the 
"pitches" being over twelve feet high. An old path 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. l6l 

leads from Sawdust Clearing, a mile and a half, nearly 
to the mouth of the stream, which is opposite the old 
Howard slate-quarry. 

From Sawdust Clearing another logging-road leads 
west, two and a half miles, to Millbank Pond, which 
empties its waters into lower Sebec Lake just west of 
Big Pine Island. It lies south of Third Buttermilk 
Pond, which is quite pretty, while Buttermilk Pond, 
No. 2, is marshy and uninteresting. The latter is 
a quarter-mile, or more, from No. i, and three-quar- 
ters of a mile from No. 3. No. 2 is a mile and a half 
long. 

The Lake House, formerly a hotel, but now seldom 
used as such, kept by Captain A. G. Crockett, is situ- 
ated near the mouth of Wilson Stream. It is the ter- 
minus of the road from Monson, and from it one can 
be conveyed to within three-quarters of a mile of 
Grindstone Pond, formerly one of the favorite fishing- 
grounds. Half a mile above the mouth of Wilson 
Stream, at the falls, are the mill and buildings of the 
Willimantic Linen Co., where they make their spools 
from the birch which grows in abundance in this region. 
The red-painted boarding-house of this company and 
its little Queen Anne cottages, on the brow of the 
opposite hill, are very picturesque, and are decidedly 
unique in these forest wilds. 

Ship Pond Stream is impassable for canoes except 
in high water, and the best way to reach Ship Pond is 
over the wagon-road, three and a half miles, to Welch's 
Mill, thence over the Elliotsville branch to Greenwood 
Pond.* From Welch's Mill to Monson is five miles, 
* See page 164. 



1 62 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

the way being along the outlets of Monson and Hebron 
Ponds and over Norton Hill, from which the mountain 
views to the north and northeast are very fine. It 
takes about three hours to drive from Crockett's to 
Monson. 

MONSON. 

Monson Village, in the middle of the township of 
the same name, is six miles northeast from Monson 
Station, on the Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad, and 
about fourteen miles south of Moosehead Lake. Sev- 
eral large slate-quarries have been operated here for 
ten years or more ; and since their opening, the village 
has, from a quiet farming community, sprung into an 
enterprising and busy trade- centre. It lies on high 
ground, among the hills which skirt the east side of 
the Piscataquis Valley, and from many points within 
its limits fine views are had of the more distant and 
pretentious mountains, which are prominent on the 
west, north, and northeast. The best outlook, by all 
odds, for the lover of natural scenery is from the top 
of Homer's Hill, above the slate-quarries. The latter, 
opened from one hundred and twenty to one hundred 
and fifty feet below the surface, and disclosing a mass 
of solid rock which extends to unknown depths, are 
objects of great interest to all who visit them. Should 
the quality of the slate in them continue as good as at 
present, they will probably furnish work to many men 
for several generations to come. 

Hebron Pond, west of the village, is a very pretty 
body of water, and contains many large and luscious 
trout. On summer evenings its surface is dotted with 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 1 63 

boats of merry villagers, seeking recreation, after the 
toils of the day, among its lovely islands or near its 
wooded shores. 

Monson lies on the old stage-road from Dexter and 
Dover to Greenville, as former visitors to Moosehead 
Lake will remember. A narrow gauge railroad from 
Monson now connects with the Bangor and Piscataquis 
Railroad at Monson Station. Comfortable hotel ac- 
commodations combine with the natural surroundings 
to make Monson an attractive and favorite resort for 
people who love quiet and the healthful tonic of a 
bracing atmosphere. 

Childe's Falls, on Goodale Brook, the outlet of 
Spectacle Ponds, are two miles north of the village, 
just east of the road which divides the town. They 
are twenty feet or more high, and although the amount 
of water which leaps from ledge to ledge is not large, 
the cascade is a very pretty one. 

ELLIOTSVILLE. 

Northeast of Monson is the town of Elliotsville, 
much wilder and, for that reason, more attractive to 
many people than its more thickly settled neighbor. 
Following the old *' centre-road " from Monson Village 
for a mile and a half, then turning to the right and 
skirting the north side of Monson Pond, in five and a 
half miles one comes to the Elliotsville line, and in 
another two and a half miles to Elliotsville Falls on 
Wilson Stream. From this point a road runs up the 
west side of the stream about a mile, crosses the Little 



1 64 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Wilson (of Shirley) and ascends a steep hill until it is 
lost in a large farm. Entering the woods opposite the 
house far up the hill on this farm, and walking three- 
quarters of a mile in a southwesterly direction, one 
comes to the Little Wilson again, and to a deep gorge 
through which it flows. A very steep and narrow ridge 
divides the stream from a tributary north of it. At the 
head of the gorge, some sixty rods from its mouth, is 
a water-fall fifty-seven feet high, of surpassing loveliness 
and well worth a visit. From the farm, as one de- 
scends again to the road, a fine view is had of Boar- 
stone and Greenwood Mountains. 

At Elliotsville Falls the road crosses the stream on 
a bridge, and on the east side forks, one branch lead- 
ing north to Bodfish's, and the other running south- 
easterly to Chas. C. Hill's farm, where teams will be 
stabled, and meals provided for hungry tourists. Mr. 
Hill owns boats on Greenwood Pond and Ship Pond, 
and, besides being reasonable in his charges, is a kind 
and attentive host. 

From this point the road to 

GREENWOOD POND 

leads through hay-fields, and camp-equipage can be 
transported thither by team, while campers can walk 
or not, as they please. It is about half a mile to the 
shore of the pond, across which to its outlet it is per- 
haps a mile further. From the landing a fine view is 
had of Boarstone Mt. and one of its spurs, called the 
*'Calf," which cast their lengthened shadows into the 
marvellously clear water of the pond. Indeed, so 
bright and clear is this water that it is difficult to take 






PENOBSCOT WATERS. 165 

fish from it, although they are said to be very abundant 
there. 

The "carry" into Ship Pond, or "Onaway Lake," 
as it is sometimes called, begins west of and near the 
oudet. The path is a good one, open, and for the 
most part dry, although in places rocky, and is about 
three-quarters of a mile long. It comes out on 

SHIP POND, 

opposite a granite ledge which juts out into the water 
near by. The shores of this pond, like those of Sebec 
Lake, are covered with granite detritus, and there are 
very few good sites on them for a camp. The best of 
these is at Haynes's Beach, on the south side of the 
cove of the same name, and another on the northwest 
shore of the pond, at a point just below Long Pond 
Stream. An iron bridge of the International Railroad 
spans the ravine just below the oudet of the pond, and 
is 125 feet high, affording a magnificent view of the 
pond and its surroundings. 

Ship Pond is so called from an island (Schooner 
Island) which formerly had several trees on it, looking 
collectively, and from a distance, like the masts of a 
vessel. The name " Onaway " is borrowed from Long- 
fellow's " Hiawatha." The original Indian name is 
Oberneetsombeck.* This pond is one of the most strik- 
ingly situated ponds of its size in this part of Maine. On 
the northwest rises Boarstone Mt., abruptly almost from 
the water's edge and a thousand feet above it. South of 
Boarstone is Greenwood Mt., insignificant only by com- 

* Bangor Hist. Mag., 18S9, vol. iv., No. 8. 



1 66 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE 

parison with its neighbors. Across the outlet from 
Greenwood Mt. is Benson Mt., more impressive per- 
haps from a distance than from near its base j and 
joined to it on the north, completing the encircling 
chain, rises majestic Barren, several hundred feet 
higher than Boarstone. All of these mountains rise 
rapidly from the shores of the pond, and instead of 
having a sameness, offer quite a variety of scenery, and 
make the pond and its neighborhood objects of wide- 
spread admiration. 

On top of Boarstone, below the principal or eastern 
summit, are three small ponds whose waters flow into 
Greenwood Pond. There is also a small pond high up 
the slope of Barren Mt. At the dam below Ship Pond, 
and in different parts of the pond, trout and land- 
locked salmon may be taken, and in some places also 
fresh-water smelts. 

From near the outlet a path leads east a quarter of a 
mile into the old Chesuncook or Thissell road, thence 
three-quarters of a mile past the end of Big Benson 
Pond to the north shore of Buttermilk Pond. A 
spotted line leads from it down to 

BIG BENSON POND, 

which is a mile and a half long. Its water is very 
clear, the shores being covered with a pretty sand, and 
the water near them shallow. Very large trout and 
togue have been taken from this pond, and its stock 
of fish is said to be by no means exhausted yet. Ben- 
son Mt. lies north and northeast, and Little Benson 
Pond is a mile to the eastward. 

From the east shore of Moore's cove (southeast 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 167 

corner of Ship Pond) it is but a few miles to Sampson 
Pond and Caribou Barren beyond, — good ground for 
deer. 

From the head of Ship Pond one can paddle nearly 
two miles up Long Pond Stream to Bodfish's Bridge, 
from which Brown's clearing, a mile beyond, is reached 
by a road through the woods and fields on the west 
side of the stream. This road continues from Brown's, 
some five or six miles, to Long Pond. About a mile 
and a half up the stream from the clearing is a very 
pretty succession of falls, called "Slugundy," a name 
elsewhere found in Maine. They are best reached 
from the road. A fine view of the end of Barren Mt. 
is had from Brown's Clearing. 

The ascent of Boarstone Mt. may be made from the 
south side, over the "Calf," or more easily from 
the north through the hard-wood forest which covers 
the northern slope. 

Parties who visit this locality will do well to secure 
a canoe at one of the neighboring farms in advance, or 
bring one with them. Camp-outfits and teams can be 
obtained at Monson.* 



MT. KTAADN FROM THE EAST. 

If one is fonder of '^ tramping " through the woods 
than of gliding over lakes and down streams in a 
canoe, there is a route, other than that already de- 
scribed, by which the ascent of Mt. Ktaadn is fre- 
quently made. 

* For information and guide, apply to E. R. JIayncs, Post- 
master, Monson, Maine. 



1 68 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

One goes by morning train on the European and 
North American Raihvay from Bangor to Mattawam- 
keag, where the cars connect with stage-coaches for 
Sherman Village, some twenty-four miles away to the 
north. It is seven miles from Mattawamkeag to Mo- 
lunkus, where passengers stop to dine, and the entire 
drive to Sherman may be accomplished by five o'clock 
in the afternoon. The drive is pleasant and not tire- 
some. The stage-fare is two dollars. At Sherman 
Village one can put up at the tavern, or, if early 
enough, push on by private conveyance, over a good 
road, four miles to Staceyville. 

It is six miles over a very rough road from here to 
the East Branch of the Penobscot, to the old Hunt 
farm. Until recently this place was kept for some 
years by C. R. Patterson, who now occupies a farm a 
mile and a half above it. At Staceyville it may be well 
to hire a horse to carry one's load to Ktaadn Lake. 
At Patterson's a guide can usually be engaged, and, if 
one is going up the river, canoes as well. 

The road, an old '' tote-road " from here westward, 
crosses the river either at the Hunt farm, which is below 
the mouth of the VVassataquoik, or at Patterson's, above 
it, the former fork joining the latter on the north side of 
this stream, up whose left bank it runs for six miles. 
Recrossing it, the road runs westerly four miles to 
Ktaadn Lake, from which a magnificent view is had of 
Mt. Ktaadn in all its majesty. The best place to camp 
is at the head of the lake, a mile from the outlet, or at 
Reed's old lumber-camp on Sandy Stream. 

From the outlet of Ktaadn Lake it is over six miles 
to Reed's upper dam. The road runs part of the way 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 169 

along Sandy Stream, and crosses it at the dam, after 
which it is somewhat better than for several miles 
before, but soon becomes steep, and is Hned with 
blocks of granite. From the dam to the Basin is 
nearly four miles, the latter being, according to Pro- 
fessor HamHn,* 1,700 ft. the higher, or 2,900 ft. above 
sea-level. 

The wildest part of Ktaadn scenery is had from this 
neighborhood, and a better idea of its grandeur and 
impressiveness is obtained here than from any other 
point. Almost surrounded by perpendicular walls of 
rock, the tourist never ceases to wonder at what is 
before him. 

Good fishing is found in Ktaadn Lake and Sandy 
Stream, or rather were found there before ■ the habit 
became prevalent among guides and loggers of de- 
stroying trout in great numbers by the use of dynamite, 
— a flagrant outrage which cannot be condemned too 
severely. 

* For a full and interesting description of this and other 
approaches to Ktaadn, see Routes to Ktaadn, by C E. Hamlin, 
in Appalachia, December, 1881. 



! 



KENNEBEC WATERS. lyi 



FORKS OF THE KENNEBEC 
AND VICINITY. 



FIRST ROUTE. 

NORTH ANSON. 

Another way of reaching Moosehead Lake and 
the head-waters of the Kennebec is by way of Skow- 
hegan, or North Anson, and thence up the Kennebec 
valley. 

The tourist leaves Boston at 7 : 30 a. m. by the East- 
ern, or by the Boston and Maine Railroad, and, con- 
necting at Portland with the Maine Central Railroad, 
continues by way of Lewiston and Auburn to West 
Waterville. At this place those who wish can connect 
with the Somerset Railroad, and go to North Anson, 
or one can without change of cars continue to Skow- 
hegan. 

. By the former route one crosses the Kennebec at 
Norridgewock, an interesting old town on its banks, 
which was settled early in the eighteenth century. A 
short distance above it the cars pass, on the left, 
a granite obelisk erected to Father Rasles and the 
Norridgewock Indians, who were slaughtered there 
in 1724. The pious father had come from Canada, 
a missionary to this wild tribe, and had succeeded in 



T72 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE. 

gaining a great ascendency over them. At his insti- 
gation they committed depredations on the setders 
near by, at the time when the French and EngHsh 
were not on very good terms. Finally, Captains Har- 
mon and Moulton were sent with two companies of 
soldiers to punish them. Coming on to the high 
ground east of their village, they divided the party, 
surrounded the unsuspecting Indians, and, after a brief 
resistance, killed most of them, and burned their chapel 
and village. 

The railroad runs along and near the left bank of 
the river, crosses to the right bank at Madison, \Ahere 
there is quite a waterfall, and continues on the same 
side to North Anson. It takes about an hour and a 
quarter to go from West Waterville to North Anson, 
and the fare is one dollar. 

North Anson, at the junction of the Kennebec and 
Carabassett Rivers, is a thriving little village, and at 
present the northern terminus of the Somerset Rail- 
road. It lies on both sides of the Carabassett, a 
stream which runs noisily through it, over rapids of 
considerable length and interest. From the village 
a fine view is had of Mount Abraham and Mount 
Bigelow, to the west. The cars arrive here about half 
past five, and the tourist can have supper, and push 
on, the same evening, seven miles, to Solon, or he can 
stop here over night and leave for Solon the next 
morning at half past seven. It is forty miles from here 
to the Forks, the junction of Dead River with the 
Kennebec, and teams connect at Solon, in the morn- 
ing, with the regular stage from Skowhegan, or vice 
versa from Solon, with the morning train from North 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 1 73 

Anson to West Waterville. The fare to Solon is fifty 
cents. Parties can procure, at reasonable rates, a team 
to carry them through to the Forks, the same night. 

From North Anson a good road runs twenty-seven 
miles to 



DEAD RIVER. 

Here, at Parsons's hotel, in Dead River Village, one 
can get canoes and staple provisions, and go up the 
river eleven miles, or by land nine miles, to Flagstaff 
Village, which is between the pond of the same name 
and Dead River. Seven or eight miles up the river 
from Flagstaff is Eustis, a small village with a mill, 
above which on the north branch of Dead River one 
can paddle twelve miles to Chain Ponds. Only one 
carry, and that only twenty rods long, has to be made, 
about four miles above Eustis, around Ledge Falls. 

From Chain Ponds one crosses the Canada line, 
and soon descends into Lake Megantic. This is the 
route taken by Arnold in his famous march to Canada 
in October and November of 1775, he having come 
up the Kennebec until opposite Carrying Place Ponds, 
over which he crossed to Dead River, camped some 
time at Flagst-aff, and then proceeded up the north 
branch through Chain Ponds into Canada. 

Below Dead River Village there are six miles of 
" dead " water to Long Falls, one mile to the west 
of which is Long Pond, a good fishing-ground. In 
fact, the whole of this Dead River region, being out 
of the usual range of sportsmen, affords very good 
trout-fishint'. 



174 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Around Long Falls there is a carry of three quarters 
of a mile ; then come six miles of " dead " water, at 
the foot of which are Grand Falls and a dam. Below 
the dam there are wild rapids for seventeen or eighteen 
miles, — all the way to the Forks. 



SECOND ROUTE. 
SKOWHEGAN. 

The route through West Waterville and Waterville 
to Skowhegan is perhaps more convenient than the 
first-named, as it involves no change of cars. Skow- 
hegan is the head-quarters of the regular and only 
Kennebec stage-line, and one is more likely to get a 
good seat in the stage there, than if one should con- 
nect with it at Solon. 

The night train from Boston fails, by two hours, to 
connect with the stage, unless there should be at least 
six persons aboard who are going up the river, and 
who shall have previously notified the stage to await 
their arrival. By this plan, however, one who wishes 
to buy an outfit at Skowhegan has no time to do so, 
and for such a person the morning train from Boston 
is the better, provided one can afford to lose the day 
spent on the cars. 

Skowhegan is quite an attractive place, and the falls 
in the Kennebec there are well worth seeing. The 
Turner House, a spacious hotel, is well kept and com- 
fortable, and within pistol-shot of the depot. 

The stage leaves the hotel, for the Forks, forty-six 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 1 75 

miles away, at half past six o'clock every morning. 
The road up to Solon — fifteen miles — runs through 
broad and undulating country, and discloses now and 
then pretty glimpses of distant mountains and hills. 
One of the prettiest views is from Robbins Hill, ten 
miles from Skowhegan. Moxie Mountain stands out 
prominently, to the north. 

From Solon the road follows the course of the river 
up its left bank to Bingham, eight miles beyond, where 
stage-passengers dine. This is the terminus of the 
telegraph-line. 

Above Bingham the hills which flank the river ap- 
proach it more nearly, and the road winds around its 
pretty curves, now through stretches of woodland, and 
again through " dugways," on the very edge of the 
bank. It is comparatively level all of the way to the 
Forks, and in good weather the entire distance through 
Solon, Bingham, Moscow, Carratunk, and the Forks 
Plantation, is made in about ten hours, stops included. 

Between Skowhegan and the Forks a stage runs each 
way every day. From the Forks to Hilton's, in Sandy 
Bay township, a stage runs every Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, arriving at Moose River Village at three 
o'clock r. M., and at Hilton's, fourteen miles beyond, 
the same evening. The stage returns on the alternate 
days of the week. Should the amount of travel render 
it expedient, the proprietors are ready to run a stage 
every day over this route, both ways. Passengers to 
Canada connect at Hilton's with the Canada stage 
down the Riviere du Loup to St. Joseph, thence they 
go by rail to Quebec. 

From Solon a stage runs every morning, and con 



176 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE, 

nects with the cars at North Anson, at 7 : 45 A. M. 
The stage from the Forks reaches Skowhegan in the 
evening, in time, if required, to catch the night train 
for Boston. Excursion tickets from Boston to the 
Forks and back, by this route, cost fourteen dollars. 

THE FORKS OF THE KENNEBEC 

has long been a favorite resort for fishermen. A well- 
kept and commodious hotel is prettily and conveniently 
located in the centre of a large tract of fine trout-coun- 
try, and the smaller game of the woods abounds in its 
vicinity. One of the best fishing-grounds near at hand is 

MOXIE POND, 

which is between ten and twelve miles long, and from a 
mile to a mile and a half broad. Two roads lead to it 
from the Forks, one on either side of Moxie Stream. 
That on the south side is five miles long, and the more 
direct ; the other is two miles longer, and passes near 
Moxie Falls, a cascade ninety-five feet high, which 
should by all means be visited. Both roads come 
together at the dam which is at the outlet of the pond. 
Moxie Stream is " dead " from its mouth almost up to 
the falls, sixty rods above which is another fall of fifteen 
feet, called Rankin's Falls. From the latter point to 
the lower dam it is a hundred rods. Two miles inter- 
vene between the lower and upper dams, three fourths 
of which is ' dead " water. At the lower dam there is 
a farm and a very neat cabin, kept by Tom Morris ; at 
the upper dam Frank Heald has a camp. 




MUX IE FALLS. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 177 

Going up the pond one comes, at the end of a mile 
and a quarter, to Caribou Narrows, a charming spot 
for camping. Tall pines stand out above their forest 
companions, and with the mountains and rocks look 
wild and weird. Black Narrows are two and a half 
miles further up the pond, and Mosquito Narrows 
about two miles beyond them. A canoe can run up 
Mosquito Stream to Mosquito Pond. 

Bald Rock is a mile above Mosquito Narrows, just 
opposite Sandy Stream, which is navigable for about a 
mile from its mouth. Baker Brook empties into the 
pond at its head, and is unnavigable. The Devil's 
Table, nine miles up the pond, is a large flat rock in 
the middle of the water. For two or three miles the 
upper part of the pond is narrow, and boulders and 
sharp rocks lie concealed just below the surface of the 
water. 

Good fishing is to be had in Mosquito, Sandy, and 
Alder Brooks. Cranberries and blueberries grow in 
profusion on the shores of the pond, and deer and 
caribou are frequently seen near it. 

Nine miles below the Forks a good road leads from 
the Kennebec, three miles, to 

PLEASANT POND, 

where there is quite a settlement. The water of this 
pond is deep and clear, so clear that one can fish suc- 
cessfully until quite late at night. The trout in it are of 
a peculiar kind, very silvery, round, plump, and deU • 
cious eating. The road continues from the north end 
of the pond four miles to Mosquito Pond. 



178 TO URS BE YOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Carrying-Place Ponds, and Otter and Peirce Ponds 
are reached from Carratunk, and are said to afford 
good fishing, the trout in them running as large as 
four and five pounds. 

Fish Pond, six miles from the Forks, and two miles 
from the lower dam on Moxie Stream, also affords 
good fishing. 

Black Pond, a mile from the Kennebec, has some 
togue in it, but few brook-trout. A convenient way 
of reaching Indian Pond from the Forks, by canoe, is 
through Black Pond, then two miles, partly by carry- 
ing, to Kjiight's Pond, thence one mile over a carry to 
Little Indian Pond, and through its boggy outlet, with- 
out serious difficulty, almost down to the mouth of 
Indian Stream, where some more carrying will have to 
be done. Elbow Bog empties into the head of Knight's 
Pond. 

A group of ponds which furnish good fishing, and 
which He pretty near together, are Wilson's Hill or 
Tomhegan Pond, Long Pond, above it, Horseshoe and 
Ellis Ponds, and the Ten-thousand-Acre Ponds. The 
first named is reached by going up the Canada Road 
three miles from the Forks, then turning to the right 
up the lower Cold Stream road through the Coburn 
field, and thence walking seven miles. A good way is 
to camp on the old farm on the border of Wilson's 
Hill Pond, and to make excursions thence, on different 
days, to the other ponds named, which are within a 
radius of two miles or less. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 1 79 

From the Forks to Indian Pond is fifteen miles, 
thence ten miles to Moosehead Lake. The better 
road is on the left bank of the Kennebec. 



PARLIN POND. 

Fifteen miles north of the Forks, on the Canada 
Road, is a group of buildings, — custom-house, post- 
office, and hotel, — which are a mile from the head of 
ParUn Pond, and which for many years have been a 
stopping-place for sportsmen. The fishing in the pond 
is good, and canoes and guides can be had at reason- 
able rates. 

Five miles beyond, on the Jackman-Parlin line, is a 
hotel kept by A. F. Adams, the proprietor of the stage- 
line which runs from the Forks to Hilton's. This house 
is said to be very well kept, and its proprietor is atten- 
tive and obliging. It is only three miles from the foot 
of Parlin Pond, to which a good road runs from it. 
This road crosses at the dam just below the pond, and 
continues down the stream, and up Lang Stream to 
Lang Pond, where trout are abundant. Good fishing is 
also to be had at Parlin Pond dam. A good path runs 
directly from Adams's to Long Pond, — four miles. 



MOOSE RIVER VILLAGE 

is fifteen miles from the head of Parlin Pond, on the 
same Canada Road. Two small hotels flourish here, 
together with all the appurtenances of a well-regulated 
New England village. Provisions and outfit can be 
obtained here for a trip into the woods, but, as has 



l8o TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

been remarked elsewhere, one must not be disap- 
pointed if one does not find on the verge of the forest 
everything that is needed. 

Leaving the village, and paddling up Moose River, 
one soon comes into 

WOOD POND, 

along whose eastern shore one goes four miles to the 
head of the pond. One McKinney has a farm and 
house here, and he can provide parties with boats, 
and, if need be, with a guide, too. 

On the west of Wood Pond are Little Wood and 
Big Little Wood Ponds. The latter is half a mile 
from the former, and a mile wide and nearly three 
miles long. A good road leads from Moose River 
Village to the latter, and, touching it midway of its 
length, runs up to its head. Both ponds contain trout 
in abundance. 

A half or three quarters of a mile of river separate 
Wood Pond from 

ATTEAN POND, 

which is rather larger than the former, and much pret- 
tier. It contains many islands, and has good shores 
covered with a generous amount of hard wood. From 
its western extremity a very good road, a mile long, 
runs across to Holeb Pond, and, by carrying across 
this one mile, one saves about twenty-seven miles of 
travel around the " bow." 

Three miles south from the outlet of the pond 



KENNEBEC WATERS. l8 



MOOSE RIVER 



again resumes its course, and is " dead " for half a 
mile up to Attean Rips, just below which is a pretty 
little island. The carry around the " rips " is on the 
left, and not more than twenty rods long. There are 
two principal " pitches," either of which can at times 
be run on the setting-pole, the upper one being per- 
haps the more difficult. 

The river is substantially smooth for eleven miles,, 
between Attean Rips and Holeb Falls, except at Spen- 
cer Rips, three miles below the latter, and in ordinary 
seasons its navigation will give the canoe-man little 
trouble. Spencer Rips can be run on the setting-pole. 

At Holeb Falls (twenty-five feet) the river forms an 
island. The old carry was on the left bank of the north 
channel ; that now in use, twelve rods long, is on the left 
bank of the south channel, near the head of the island. 

Lookout Mt., four hundred and twenty-five feet 
above the river, southeast of the falls, affords a fine 
view of the surrounding country. A good road from 
Parlin Pond touches Holeb Falls and continues up the 
stream to the north branch. 

Above Holeb Falls, as far as Campbell Rips (smooth 
ledge), the water is dead ; above the latter point it 
shows some current. From the falls to Holeb Stream 
the distance is between ten and twelve miles, the upper 
part of the river being very crooked, and, in places, 
shallow. In the upper parts of the river the banks are 
high and clayey. Barrett Brook is rather less than half 
way from the falls to Holeb Stream. The latter can gen- 
erally be navigated by canoes, and is about a mile long. 



1 8 2 TO URS BE YOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Above Holeb Stream, the first brook on the right is 
Big Gulf Stream, and the second, — a fraction of a 
mile beyond, and on the same side, — Little Gulf 
Stream. Both are so named because of the gorges 
through which they flow. The mouth of Little Gulf 
Stream is near the town line, three quarters of a mile 
west of which are Lowell Falls. A short carry lies 
on the right bank. A short distance above the falls, 
on the left, is a small pond, half a mile from the river, 
which used to be a famous moose-ground. 

So tortuous is the stream between Holeb Falls and 
the town line near Lowell Falls, that the distance be-' 
tween the two, by canoe, is about eighteen miles, while 
in a straight line it is less than half that number. 



GAME AND FISH. 1 83 



GAME AND FISH OF NORTHERN 
MAINE. 



Northern Maine, like all other hunting ground within 
easy reach of civilization, has been pretty thoroughly 
hunted and trapped over, among others by a class of 
men, to whom, in the face of quick returns even with 
small profits, the laws of the State and the rights of 
fellow-citizens are of litde or no consequence. Nor 
does it seem to matter much, that in killing off game 
indiscriminately and wantonly they are making away 
with the goose that lays the golden egg. Statistics 
show that for every moose killed in the autumn by 
tourists at least fifteen hundred dollars are brought 
into Maine and distributed among her inhabitants. 
No one can now report having seen a moose any- 
where, cow or bull, in winter or summer, in season or 
out of season, but that some listener will quietly hurry 
off, to see if he cannot kill it. The immunity from 
punishment of persons that violate the game laws is 
due largely to the niggardly policy of the State, in not 
equipping itself with a well-organized and decently 
paid corps of wardens. Added to this, the widespread 
and self-confessed ignorance, even among the more 



1 84 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

intelligent citizens of the State, as to the game re- 
sources, their value and their needs, the general apathy 
among all classes, as shown by the absence of clubs 
for the protection of game and punishment of game- 
law breakers, and the existence of a small but deter- 
mined band of deer-hounders, who, when cornered, 
do not scruple even to shoot down the wardens in 
cold blood, — all of these causes tend to paralyze the 
efforts of the few friends of game protection, and, if 
not counteracted, will surely lead to the extermination 
of big game, and with it the loss of the fairest hunting 
ground east of the Mississippi River. 

The game and fish laws of Maine have undergone 
some changes for the better within the past eight years. 
Every person may now take, at the proper season, one 
moose, two caribou and three deer. This liberal 
allowance is more than enough to supply the needs 
of any party of campers, and no true sportsman will 
wantonly kill more game than he can use, just for the 
sake of the excitement, or " sport," as it is called. 
The same rule of conduct should apply equally to 
fishing. Can any person with humanity in his nature 
continue to catch trout long after the needs of his 
table are supplied, only to see them spoil afterwards ? 
" Oh, but I put back into the water all under a pound 
in weight," says an ardent fisherman. " I have the 
fun of playing them, and, you know, it does not pain 
them to be hooked." Is not this casuistry? Who 
has proved that the torn and twisted mouth, or the 
lacerated and bleeding eye of a trout does not pain? 
Let us even admit that the pain a trout is capable of 
suffering is very slight compared with that of more 



GAME AND FISH. 185 

highly organized beings. Will not the fisherman's 
argument excuse the shooter when he inflicts a flesh 
wound on a deer, just to have the fun of seeing whether 
he could hit him? Moderation on the part of our 
shooters and fishermen — moderation well digested, 
so to speak — would produce enjoyment more satis- 
factory in the end, in that it would leave more room 
for the enjoyment of others. 

The fish laws of Maine now prohibit the taking, or 
having in possession for the purpose of transportation, 
by any one person, of more than fifty pounds of trout 
at one time, and this measure bids fair to prevent the 
rapid depletion of Maine's ponds and streams. 

The writer has not attempted to give, in these pages, 
exact directions as to the whereabouts of all the good 
fishing-pools in different ponds and streams, and for 
three reasons. First, and principally, he does not 
know where they are ; secondly, they change from 
year to year, nay, even from day to day ; and, thirdly, 
it would take away much pleasure from the camper- 
out, if he were not allowed occasionally to hunt after 
his game. One soon learns, without being told, that 
at the foot of rapids, below dams, at the mouths of 
cold streams, and in pools along their course, are the 
most hkely places for fish. As to game, one should 
ever be ready to meet it. It comes when least ex- 
pected, and may be off again before one can disen- 
gage his gun from a lot of rods and camp equipage. 
Keep it by your side, or in your hands, always^ while 
in the woods. 



i86 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 



DIGEST OF THE GAME AND INLAND FISH 
LAWS OF MAINE. 

MOOSE, DEER, AND CARIBOU. 

It is unlawful to hunt, catch, kill, or destroy, with 
DOGS, any moose, deer, or caribou. Penalty for moose 
one hundred, for deer or caribou forty dollars. — 1891, 
ch. 95, §§ % 10. 

Close-time for moose, deer, and caribou, January ist 
to October ist. 

"Any person may lawfully kill any dog found 
hunting moose, deer, or caribou, or kept or used 
FOR THAT PURPOSE. Any person owning or having in 
possession any dog for the purpose of hunting moose, 
deer, or caribou, or that is kept or used for such hunting, 
forfeits not less than twenty nor more than one hundred 
dollars." — Ibid. § 10. 

The possession of any such animal or part thereof at a 
time when its killing is unlawful, is presumptive, but not 
conclusive, evidence of having killed it. — Ibid. §11. 

Whoever takes, kills, destroys, or has in possession 
between the first days of October and January more than 
one moose, two caribou, or three deer, forfeits one hundred 
dollars for every moose and forty dollars for every caribou 
or deer taken, killed, destroyed, or in possession in excess 
of said number ; and all such moose, caribou, or deer, or 
the carcasses or parts thereof, are forfeited to the prose- 
cutor. Whoever has in possession, except alive, more 
than the aforesaid number of moose, deer, or caribou, or 
parts thereof, shall be deemed to have killed or destroyed 
them in violation of law. " But nothing in this section 
shall prevent any market-man or provision-dealer, having 
an established place of business in this state, from pur- 
chasing and having in possession at his said place of 
business, not exceeding one moose, two caribou, and 
three deer, lawfully caught, killed, or destroyed, or any 



\ 



GAME AND FISH LAWS. 187 

part thereof, at one time, and selling the same at retail in 
open-season to his local customers." — Ibid. § 12. 

Transportation of the above-jiientioned game in close- 
time, or in open-time unless open to view, tagged, and 
plainly labeled with the name of the owner, and accom- 
panied by him, is prohibited. Fine, forty dollars. Any 
person not the actual owner, who, to aid another in such 
transportation, falsely represents himself to be the owner, 
is liable to the penalty aforesaid. Ibid. § 13. 

Similar regulations, with penalties, apply to protected 
birds, except that only fifteen may be transported at one 
time, and market-men may purchase and sell, in open- 
season, to local customers. — Ibid. § 21. 

" Any person whose game or fish has been seized for 
violation of any game or fish law, shall have it returned 
to him on giving to the officer a bond ... in double the 
amount of the fine. . ." Failing to give such bond, he 
may lose his fish or game. — Ibid. § 14. 

Game taken, etc., in violation of law is liable to seizure, 
and is forfeited " in case of conviction for such viola- 
tion."— Ibid. § 15. 

Any officer authorized to enforce the fish and game 
laws may, without process, arrest any violator of said 
laws. — Ibid. § 16. 

FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, AND BIRDS. 
Open season for Penalty. 

Mink, Sable, Otter, and ) Ten dol- 

Fisher Oct. 15 to May i ) lars. 

Beaver, not to be taken at any time ! Twenty-five 

dollars. 
Not less 
than five 
norinorc 
than ten 
dollars 
for each 
bird. 



Wood-duck, Dusky (black) 

duck, Teal, or Grayduek Sept. i to May i 

Partridge, Woodcock . . . Sept. i to Dec. i 

Quail Oct. I to Dec. i 

Pinnated grouse (Prairie 

chicken) Sept. i to Jan. i 

Plover Aug. i to May i 



1 88 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

During close-seasoji the killing, sale, or possession of 
said birds (except alive) is prohibited. 

In any season the exposure for sale, or the possession 
of said birds, except alive, or except for consiunption as 
food within the state, and then, too, of not more than 
thirty of each variety at one time, is prohibited under a 
penalty of five dollars for each bird. (See paragraph 
above on transportation, and sale of game.) 

No wild duck and none of the above birds, except 
plover, may lawfully be taken in snares or traps. Penalty, 
five dollars for each bird. — Ibid. § 22. 

The wanton taking or destruction of the nests, eggs, 
or unfledged young of any wild bird, except of crows, 
hawks, or owls, or the taking of eggs or young from said 
nests, except to preserve the same as specimens or to rear 
said young alive, is punishable by a fine of from one 
dollar to ten dollars for each nest, G^gg, or young so taken 
or destroyed. — Ibid. § 24. 

Indians are liable to the foregoing penalties equally 
with other persons. 

Sunday is a close-time for game and birds of any 
kind. — Ibid. § 27. 

FISH. 

The close-time for land-locked salmon, trout, and togue 
is from October ist to May ist (except on the St. Croix 
River and its tributaries, and on all the waters in Ken- 
nebec County, where it extends from September 15th to 
May 1st) ; for black bass, Oswego bass, and white perch, 
from April ist to July ist. — R. S. ch. 40, § 47. 

The penalty attached to the foregoing section is not 
less than ten dollars, nor more than thirty dollars, and a 
further fine of one dollar for each fish taken. In February, 
March, and April, however, citizens of Maine may "fish 
for and take land-locked salmon, trout, and togue, and 
convey the same to their own homes, but not otherwise." 
Ibid. § 48. 



GAME AND FISH LAWS. 189 

The sale, possession with intent to sell, or transporta- 
tion of trout, etc., during close-time is prohibited. Pen- 
alty, from ten to fifty dollars. — Ibid. § 49. 

The possession of said fish in close-time (except aHve) is 
presumptive evidence of violation of law. — Ibid. § 50. 

" No person shall take, catch, kill, or have in posses- 
sion, at any one time for the purpose of transportation, 
more than fifty pounds of land-locked salmon, trout, or 
togue, in all, nor shall any such be transported except in 
the possession of the owner thereof, under a penalty of 
fifty dollars for the offence and five dollars for every 
pound of land-locked salmon, trout, or togue, in all, so 
taken, caught, killed, in possession or transportation, in 
excess of fifty pounds ; and all such fish transported in 
violation of this section may be seized, on complaint, 
and shall be forfeited to the prosecutor. Whoever has 
in possession more than fifty pounds in all of such fish 
shall be deemed to have taken them in violation of tliis 
section." — Laws of 1885, ch. 271, § 54. 

The use of grapnel, spear, trawl, weir, net, seine, trap, 
and set-line, except when fishing through the ice, and 
then with not more than five set-lines, in all fresh-water 
lakes, ponds, and streams, is prohil^ited. Only hand- 
fishing, with a single-baited hook or line, or with arti- 
ficial flies, is legal. The penalty for disregarding this 
section is twenty-five dollars for each salmon or land- 
locked salmon, and one dollar for each and every other 
fish so taken, etc., and all grapnels, etc., are forfeited if 
found in use or operation, any person being authorized in 
such case to destroy them. — Ibid. § 51. 

The use of explosives or poison to destroy or take fish, 
is prohibited. Penalty, one hundred dollars fine, and two 
months' imprisonment in the county jail. — Ibid. § 52. 

It is prohibited to kill or destroy sea-salmon or land- 
locked salmon less than nine inches in length, or any 
trout less than five inches in length. Penalty, five dollars 



190 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

for the offence, and fifty cents for each fish. Possession 
of said fish of less than said sizes is presumptive evidence 
of violation of law. — § 53. 



SPECIAL LAWS FOR MOOSEHEAD LAKE 
REVISED STATUTES 1S85. 

§ I. No person shall take, catch, kill, fish for, or 
destroy any trout, land-locked salmon, or other fish in 
the Misery and Saccatien or Socatian rivers, which empty 
into Moosehead Lake, from the loth day of September to 
the 1st day of May. 

§ 2. Any person who shall violate the provisions of 
this Act shall forfeit and pay the sum of twenty-five dol- 
lars for the attempt and one dollar for each and every 
trout, land-locked salmon, or other fish so taken, caught, 
killed, or destroyed, to be recovered by complaint before 
any trial justice, one-half to the complainant and one-half 
to the county where proceedings are commenced. 

FIRES. 

Any person who shall build a camp or cooking fire in 
or adjoining any woods in this state, shall, before leaving 
such camp, totally extinguish such fire, and upon failure to 
do so, such person shall be punished by a fine not exceed- 
ing one hundred dollars, or by imprisonment in the county 
jail not exceeding one month, or by both such fine and 
imprisonment, provided that such fires built upon the sea- 
beach in such situation that they cannot spread into forest, 
wood or cultivated lands or meadows, shall not be consid- 
ered as prohibited by this act. — 1891, ch. 100, § 5. 

All persons engaged in hunting game on any of the 
woodlands within any town or unincorporated place in 
this state, shall use non-combustible wads in the loading 
of firearms used by them. — Ibid. § 57- 



CAMP-FIRES. 



PUT OUT YOUR CAMP-FIRES! 



19] 



The attention of campers is earnestly called to the sub- 
ject of their camp-fires. Too much care cannot be exer- 
cised to see that these are thoroughly put out before the 
camps are deserted. The danger lies not so much in 
leaving a few smouldering brands in the middle of a bare 
fireplace, as in allowing to remain unextinguished a 
single spark in the turf at its side. It should be the 
tourist's last care, before leaving camp, to apply plenty 
of water to the soil around his fireplace, which nearly 
always is composed of dry moss, leaves, and other inflam- 
mable matter, frequently to the depth of a foot or more. 
A spark lurking in this mass for days undetected may be 
fanned into life by the next wind that blows, and the 
mischief which ensues may be irreparable. Too much 
stress cannot be laid on this matter. The writer knows 
of cases, where campers have taken the utmost care, 
apparently, to leave not a single live ember behind them, 
and yet ravaging forest fires have been proved to have 
originated from their camps. Thousands upon thousands 
of dollars' worth of timber have been thus destroyed; and 
if we only remember that in burning a man's trees we do 
him as much harm as if we burned his house, it will spur 
all conscientious men to treat the forests with perhaps 
even more consideration than they would their own prop- 
erty. It is no mean privilege we enjoy, of camping, 
hunting, and fishing on other men's land. Let us then 
render back at least this one duty of putting out our 
camp-fires. 



FIRE! 



"Whoever kindles a fire on land not his own, 
without consent of the owner, forfeits ten dollars ; if 
such fire spreads and damages the property of others, 
he forfeits not less than ten nor more than five hun- 
dred dollars, and in either case he shall stand com- 
mitted until fine and costs are paid, or he shall be 
imprisoned not more than three years." 



TOURS FOR CAMPERS. 193 



TOURS FOR CAMPERS. 



The following tables will show approximately the 
time needed to make several of the more usual tours, 
around and near Moosehead Lake. The night passed 
on the cars from Boston to Bangor is not reckoned in 
the tables, so that the " third night " means the night 
of the third day from Boston. 

One must needs be on the move pretty much all the 
time, to carry out the programme laid down, and it 
may be well to add two or three days, in fourteen, for 
wet weather and other drawbacks. The enjoyment 
and comfort of campers will be greatly enhanced if 
they take half as much time again for each tour as is 
here thought necessary. 

No. I. — One Week. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Boston to Mount Kineo I day. 

Head of lake and return I day. 

Socatean River I day. 

East Outlet i day. 

Brassua Lake 2 days. 

Mount Kineo to Boston i day. 

7 days. 



194 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

No. II. — Two Weeks. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

Boston to Mount Kineo i day. 

Mount Kineo House i day. 

Brassua Lake 2 days. 

Tomhegan and Socatean 'otreams .... 2 days. 

Mount Kineo House ; . . . i day. 

Spencer Pond 2 days. 

East Outlet 2 days. 

Greenville i day. 

Wilson Pond I day. 

Greenville to Boston i day. 

14 days. 

No. III. — Two Weeks. 
UP THE WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

Boston to Mount Kineo ,1 day. 

Nelhudus Stream, or Seeboomook Falls . . 2 days. 

To Forks of West Branch i day. 

To Hale Brook I day. 

Hale and Alder Brooks 3 days. 

To Penobscot Brook (.?) i day. 

Back to Canada Falls i day. 

To Gulliver Falls i day. 

To Northwest Carry i day. 

To Kineo i day. 

To Boston I day. 

14 days. 

No. IV. — Two Weeks. 
DOWN THE WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT 

Boston to Moosehead Lake ist day. 

Greenville or Mt. Kineo to Moosehorn Str. 2d day. 



TOURS FOR CAMPERS. 195 

Weymouth Point, — Chesuncook Lake . 3d night. 

Ripogenus Carry 4th night. 

Sourdnahunk Dead-Water 6th night. 

Sandy Stream, — Foot of Mt. Ktaadn. . 8th night. 

Sandy Stream 9th night 

Ambajejus Lake loth night 

Fowler's, or Medway nth night 

Mattawamkeag 12th night 

Boston 14th day. 



No. V. — Two Weeks. 

DOWN THE ST. JOHN RIVER. 

Boston to Moosehead Lake ist day. 

Moosehead Lake to Moosehorn Stream . 2d day. 

Umbazookskus Lake 3d night 

Chamberlain Lock 4th night. 

Thoroughfare Brook, or Chase's Carry . 6th night 
Umsaskis Lake, or Long Lake .... 8th night 

Allagash Falls 9th night 

Edmundston nth night 

Grand Falls 12th night 

Boston 14th day. 

No. VI. — Fifteen Days. 

CAUCOMGOMOC LAKE. 

Boston to Moosehead Lake ist day. 

Moosehead Lake to Moosehorn Stream . 2d day. 

Lower Falls, — Caucomgomoc Stream . 3d night 

Caucomgomoc Lake 4th night. 

Avery Brook 5th night 

Round Pond 6th night 

Poland Pond i day. 

Daggett Pond and Shallow Lake . . . i day. 

Allagash Lake and return to Round Pond 3 days. 



196 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

Caucomgomoc Stream 12th night. 

Moosehorn Stream 13th night. 

Mount Kineo House 14th night. 

Boston 1 6th day. 

No. VII. — Two AND A HALF TO ThREE WeEKS. 

FORKS AND MOOSE RIVER. 

Boston to the Forks i day. 

The Forks 3 days. 

Jackman House 2 days. 

Moose River Village 7th night. 

Holeb Falls 9th night. 

Lowell Falls nth night. 

Attean Pond, via Holeb Pond .... 13th night. 
Moose River Village 14th night. 

The Forks 15th night. 

Boston 17th day. 

Moosehead Lake . 17th night. 

Boston 22d day. 



The following table gives the approximate expense 
of making each of the foregoing excursions from, or 
in the vicinity of Moosehead Lake, with one guide, 
and one or two tourists to a canoe. Under "R. R. 
Fares," there is included, in Tours 4, 5, and 7, besides 
meals and sleeping-car berths, the cost of transporting 
guide and canoe from the end of the journey back to 
his home. 

The car- fare from Boston to Mount Kineo is ^9.25 ; 
to Mattawamkeag, ^9.10, — limited $7.60; and to 
Edmundston, ^14.45, — limited $12.20. 



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Steamer, 
Pa«ficnf;ers 
& Canoe. 


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8;8 


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Guide. 


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8 8;8 88 


8 


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8 


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Provisions. 


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Carries. 


00 

8 


00 

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INDEX. 



PAGE 

Abacotnetic Bog 91, 92, 93, 96, 97 

Abbot 157 

Aboljackarmegas Dead-Water 76 

" Falls . . 76, 79 

" Stream . 76, 78 

Aboljackarm^gassic .... 73 

Abraham. — See Mt. Abraham. 

Accidents 29, 30 

Adams's House 179 

Aider Brook . . . 87,89, 177, 194 

Alder Ground .... 58, 92, 93 

Allaeash Falls . 125, 126, 131, 195 

Lake . . . 103, 104, 195 

" Pond 105 

" River 97, 105, 115, 118, 120, 

121, 123, 126-129, 131, 135 

Stream . . . 104, 105 

Allagaskwigamook 109, 113, 121, 

i3i> 135 
Allagaskwigamooksis no, 113, 119 
Ambajejus Falls .... 76, 78 

A ,". f^'^e • • • 77,81, 19s 
Ambajemackomus Carry . 72, 78 

Andover 130 

Apmoojenegamook 107, 134, 135, 144 

Arches 7i» 72 

Arnold 173 

Aroostook Falls ... 114, 134 

" Junction . . 133, 134 

' River no, 112, 134, 136 

Ascent of Mt. Ktaadn ... 73 

" " Kineo .... 52 

Ashland 114, 123 

Attean Pond and Rips 180, 181, 196 

Auburn 171 

Avery Brook ... 99, 100, 195 
" Pond 99, 103 

B Pond 150 

Babel Brook 157 

Baker Bog 96 



PAGE 

Baker Brook . . . . 62, 96, 177 

" Lake 96, 97 

" Mt. . 41, 49, 147, 149, 15s 

River 129 

'* Stream 96 

Bald Brook 88 

" Mt. . . . 44, 47, 62, 88, 90 

" Rock 177 

Bangor . 39, 40, 77, 113, 168, 193 
" and Katahdin Iron 

Works Railway 146 

" and Piscataquis R. R. 40, 

146, 157, 162 

Barren Mt. 44, 149, 155, 159, 166, 167 

Barrett Brook i8i 

Basin 76, 169 

" Pond 75 

Bear Pond 160 

Beardsley Brook 132 

Beau Lac 127 

Ben Glazier Brook .... 124 

Benson Mt 149, 166 

Big Benson Pond 166 

" Gulf Stream 182 

" Gull Rock 55 

" Heater 71 

" Houston Pond .... 149 

" Island 64, 85 

" Lane Brook 90 

" Little Wood Pond ... 180 
" Lyford Pond and Dam 48, 49, 

" Machias Stream .... 114 

'* Pine Island . . . 159, 161 
" Spruce Mt. ..... 148 

Bigelow. — See Mt. Bigelow. 

Bill Fish Brook . . . 139, 144 

Billing's Fall 154 

Bingham 175 

Birch Island 46 

" Point 55 



200 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Black Island 47 

" Narrows 177 

" Pond ...... 98, 178 

" River Rapids .... 97 

Blanchard 39,40,41 

Blethen Landing 158 

Blue Ridge 47> 62 

Boarstone Mt. 44, 146, 149, 157, 159, 
164-167 

Bodfish Falls 57 

Bodfish's Farm 164 

" Bridge 167 

Bog Brook . 87, 116, 117, 120, 137 

Boston 39, 40, 171, 174, 176, 193, 194, 

19s, 196 

Boston and Maine R. R. . 39, 171 

Betting's Farm 113 

Boundary Lake 127 

Bowlin Ledges and Falls 140, 141, 
144, 145 

' Stream 141 

Bradstreet's Farm 181 

Brandy Brook 98 

Brassua Lake ... 58, 193, 194 

" vStream 59 

Brown's Clearing 167 

Brownville .... 146, 155, 157 

Buck's Cove 159, 160 

Bulge Pond 11 1 

Buoy 55 

Burnt Jacket Cliff 46 

Buttermilk Pond . . 160, 161, 166 

"Calf" 164, 167 

CamjT-Fires 24, 189 

Camp-Ground 22, 23 

Camp " Kit " 4-7 

" ornamentation ... 23, 24 

" Pocahontas 84 

Canada . . 82, 94, 171, 153, 175 
" Falls . , 82, 86, 89, 194 
" Road . . 60, 88, 178, 179 

Canoes 16-19 

Capen's Landing 51 

Carabassett River 172 

Caribou 113, 114, 12S 

" Barren 167 

" Lake 67 

" Narrows 177 

Carratunk 175, 178 

Carry Brook 81 

" Pond 7i> 72 

Carrying-Place Ponds . 173, 178 

Caucomgomoc Lake 97-100, 103, 

104, 195 

" River 98, 105, 195, 196 

Caucomgomocsis 100 



PAGE 

Centre Island 62 

Chain Ponds 173 

Chairback Mt. . 147, 148, 149, 157 

" Ponds 149 

Chamberlain Farm .... 107 

" Lake 97, 102, 105, 107, 

^ , 121, 134, 135 

Lock 107, 109, 121, 195 

Chase's Carry . , .121, 131, 195 

" Dam 121 

Chatacoin 129 

Chemquasabamticook Lake . 105 

Chesuncook Dam .... 68, 78 

" Lake 64, 66, 67, 68, 69, 

70, 78, 97, 98, 103, 104, 105 

" Road . . . 147, 166 

Chesunkook 79 

Chetookook 79 

Childe's Falls 163 

Clare's Bar 129 

Clark's Camp 148 

Churchill Lake 109, 113, 116, 121, 

" Stream .... 47, 58 

Clear Lake 116, 117 

Clear Pond 105 

Cliff Beach 55 

Climbing 30 

Cloutier's 132 

Coburn I'arm 60 

" Field 178 

Coffee House Stream ... 43 

Colds 32-34 

Cold Stream 178 

Cooking 25-27 

Cowcn's Cove 55 

Crockett's 162 

Cross Lake 127 

Cross Rock and Rapids . . . 127 
Crowfoot F\t11s .... 142, 145 
Cussabexis Lake 67 

Daggett Pond . loi, 102, 103, 195 

Dam Pitch 83 

Davis's 48, 49 

Day Dream 57 

Dead River 172, 173 

" " Village .... 173 

Debsconeak 76 

Deer Lsland 46, 47, 51 

Depot Farm 119, 123 

Devil's }51ow-Hole .... 62 

" Delight 55 

" Elbow 122 

" Table 177 

Dexter 163 

Dole Brook . . . . 91, 92, 93, 95 



INDEX. 



201 



PAGE 

Dole Brook Falls .... 93) 95 

" Pond 94, 95 

Donald's Lake ii8 

Dover 4i, 163 

Dressing Game 28, 29 

Dry Mountain 47 

Duck Cove and Mt. , . . 6r, 62 

" Pitch 153 

" Pond 67 

Ducks 1S5 

Dwinel Farm 135 

Eagle Lake . . 107, 108, 118, 135 
" " Narrows . . . log 

" Stream 43 

East Branch Penobscot 77, 107, 121, 

134, 136, 140, 141 

" ** PleasantRiver 146, 15s, 

156 

" Cove 41 

" Ebeeme Pond .... 156 

" Green Mt 91 

" Outlet . . 45, 46, 47. 193. 194 

Eastern R. R. 39, 171 

Ebeeme Mt 146, 147 

Ebeeme Ponds . 155, 156, 157, 167 

Echo Lake no, 113 

Edmundston 128, 130, 131, 133, 195 

Elbow Bog 178 

Elephant Mt 41, 149 

Elliotsville .... 155, 161, 163 
" Falls . . . 163, 164 

Ellis Pond 178 

Elm Pond and Stream ... 83 
European and N. A. Rwy. 39, 40, 168 

Eustis Village 173 

Eveleth House 42 

Expenses 5, 197 

Farm Island 62 

Fatigue 34, 35 

Finley's Island 125 

First Lake 119, 120 

Fish 1S3 

" Laws 184, 187, 188 

" Pond 178 

" River 129 

" " Rapids 129 

Fishing Tackle 13, 56 

Fitzgerald Pond 43 

Five Finger Brook .... 124 

Flagstaff Village 173 

Forks of Kennebec . 171-170,196 

" West Branch of Penobscot 

85, 89, 92, 93, 194 

" Plantation 175 

Fort Fairfield . . . . 114, 134 



PAGE 

Fort Kent . . 127, 128, 129, 131 
Fourth Lake .... 118, 120 

Fowler's Carry 77, 195 

Fox Hole 64, 66 

Foxcroft 157, 158 

Frenchville 129 

Frost Brook 68 

" Pond 70, 94, 95 

Gaflney's Camp 148 

Game 28, 29, 1S3 

" Laws 186, 187 

Gardner Brook 114 

Gates's 145 

Gauntlet 156, 157 

Gerrish Pond 43 

Glazier's Lake 127 

Gold Mine 55 

Golen Rapids 127 

Goodale Brook 163 

Grand Falls 77, 128, 130, 131, 133, 
136, 140, 141, 174, 195 

" Lake 137, 138 

" Pitch . , . . 140, 141, 144 
Grande Fourche . . . 132, 133 

Granite Mt 158 

Green Island 47 

" Mountains • . . . 91, 92 

" Point 159 

Greenville 40-44, 46, 48, 56, 155, 

163, 194 

Greenwood Mt. . . . 164, 165, 166 

" Pond • . 161, 164, 166 

Griffin's 132 

Grindstone Falls . . . 143, 145 

" Pond 161 

Guides 19-21 

Gulf .... 48, 148, 151-155, 156 

GulfHagas J5i-'53 

"Gulf House" 153 

Gull Rock 55 

Gulliver Falls and Stream 84, 85, 193 

" Pitch 72 

Guns >3, >9 

Hale Brook 87, 88, 194 

Hammond Street Pitch . . . 152 

Hard Scrabble 52 

Harford's Rocks 128 

Harrington Lake .... 69, 70 
" Stream .... 69 

Harrow Lake . . . 115, n 6, 120 
Haskell Rock and Pitch 140, 144 
Hathorn's High Landing . . 141 

Hay Brook 138 

Harden Brook 114 

Haymock Lake 107 



202 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Haynes's Beach 165 

Heater 71 

Hebron Pond 162 

High Landing 9i> 92 

Hihon's 67, 175, 179 

Hog Back Island 51 

Holeb Falls .... 181, 182, 196 

" Pond 180, 196 

" Stream .... 181, 182 

Holt's Farm 164 

Homer's Hill 162 

Horace Falls 156 

Horse Eddy 151 

Horseshoe Pond . . . 156, 178 

Houlton 128 

Houlton Brook 114 

Houston Mt 149 

Howard Slate Quarry . 160, i6i 
Hulling Machine Falls 140, 141, 144 

Hunger 34, 35 

Hunt Farm . . 142, 144, 145, 168 

Hurd Ponds 100 

Hygienic Notes . . , 2<^ et seq. 

Indian Carry .... 136, 144 

" Mt 41 

" Pond 47, 57, 58, 155, 178, 179 
" Stream 178 

Island Falls 69 

Jackman 179, 196 

Jaws of the Gulf 154 

Johnson's Landing .... 43 
Jo Merry Lakes . . 80, 155, 156 

" " Mt 44, 148 

" " Road 156 

Katahdin Iron Co 145 

Katahdin Iron Works 44, 145, 150 
Ktaadn — See Mt. Ktaadn. 

" Lake .... 168, 169 

" Pond 75 

Katepskonegan Falls .... 76 
" Lake .... 76 

Keeobscus Brook 126 

Kennebec 41, 47, 55. I7i-i74»i77-i79 
" Dam. . . . 46,47,48 

Ket-tegwe-wick 79, 144 

Kineo. — See Mt. Kineo. 

" Bay 52 

" Point ....... 52 

King's High Landing ... 85 

Kinneho 53> 54 

Knight's Pond 17S 

" Farm 85 

Kobscus Brook 126 



143 



Lake House . . . 
*' Megan tic . . 

Lane's Clearing 

Lang Pond . . . 
" Stream . . 

Lapompeag Stream 

Leadbetter Brook . 
Falls . 

Ledge Falls . . . 
" Island . . 

Legend .... 

Lewiston .... 

Lily Bay ... . 
" " House 
" " Mts. . . 
" Road . . 

Liquors .... 

Little Benson Pond 
" Brassua Pond 
" Falls . . . 
*' Gulf Stream 
" Gull Rock . 
" Heater . . 
" Houston Pond 
" Indian Pond 
" Kineo . . . 
" Lake . . . 
" Lobster Brook 
*' Lyford Ponds 
" ^Iachias Stream 
" Madawaska Stream 
" Mud Lake . 
" Musquacook . 
*' Pine Island . 
" Pleasant Pond 
" Scott Brook 
" Spencer Pond 
" Spruce Mt. . 
" Squatook Lake 
" Wilson Stream 
" Wood Pond 

Lobster Lake . . 
" Mt. . . . 
" Stream . . 

Long Falls . . . 
" Lake 97, 105, 



12,35 



PAGE 

, 158, 161 

• • 173 

82,84,85 

179 

179 

114 

90 

9i> 93 

^s> 173 

46 

53 

48 
49 
49 
36, 37 
166 
59. 60 
130 
182 
55 
71 
149 
178 
47. 62 
132 
66 
49 
114 
114 
132 
120 

48 
98 
50 
M7 
132 
164 



65,66,67 

47,62,66 

• 64, 65 

173, '74 

123, 129, 

131, 19s 

'• Pond 58, 60, 95, 149, 155, 167, 

173, 178, 179 

" " Stream ... 165, 167 

Loon Lake 100, 103 

Louse Island 138 

Lowell Fails 182, 196 

Lower Ebeeme Pond . . 155, 157 

Lucky Pond 51 

Luggage 7-13 

Lunksoos Mt 144 



INDEX. 



203 



PAGE 

Lyford Mt 149 

Madawaska River . . . 130,131 

Madison 172 

Maine 127, 128, 133 

Maine Central R. R. . . . 39, 171 

Maquaso 53 

Marsh Pond log 

Matangamook Lake 136, 137, 138, 

139, 143. 144 

" Mt. . . 137, 139 

Matangamooksis . . 136, 137, 144 

Mat-da-\vas-kek 130 

Mattawamkeag 77, 78, 113, 143, i68, 

19s 

McKinney's Farm 180 

McLennan's 124, 126 

McLennan's Brook .... 125 

Medway 143, 195 

Megantic Lake 173 

Miasm . 31 

Michaud's Island and Rapids . 129 

Michu Rapids 127 

Middle Branch Penobscot . . 93 
Middle Branch Pleasant River 146 

Mile Island 46 

Millbank Pond i6i 

Millinokett Lake .... 75, 81 

" Stream .... 77 

Milnokett Pond and Lake . . 137 

" Stream . . 112, 113, 114 

Milo Station 40, 145 

" Village 146 

Miseree Mt 44,47,62 

" Stream 58 

Mohawks 53 

Moir's Farm .... 124, 125 

Molunkus 168 

Monroe's Island 125 

Monson 43, 155, 158, 161, 162, 163, 

167 

" Pond .... 162, 163 

" Station . . 157, 158, 162 

Moody Islands 5i> 56 

Moore's Cove 166 

Moose Brook 62, 67 

" Cliff 139 

" Island 46 

" Pond 67 

" River 47, 55, 58, 59, 60, 62, 

180, r8i 

" " Bridge .... 60 

•' " Village 175,179,180,196 

Moosehead Lake 39-41, 44, 49, 53, 

58, 60, 63, 81, 97, 134, 149, 162, 

163,171,179,184,193-196 

Moosehom Str. 64, 66, 194, 195, 196 



PAGE 

Mooseleuk Stream . . . 113,114 
Morris Farm . . . 63, 64, 66, 83 

Morrison's Farm 127 

Moscow 17s 

Mosquito Narrows .... 177 

'^ Pond 177 

" Repellent .... 12 

" Stream 177 

Moulton Hill 157 

Mount Abraham . . . 44,47, 172 

'* Bigelow . . . 44,47, 172 

" Ktaadn 40, 44, 46, 62, 65, 66, 

67,68,70,71, 73,75,76,78, 

79, 81, 134, 142, 144, 148, 

157, 167, 168, 169 

" Kineo 45,47,51,58,60,61, 

62,67, 184, 193, 194, 196 

" " House 46, 52, 54, 56, 

S7> 194, 196 

Moxie Falls and Pond . . . 176 

" Mt 175 

" Stream .... 176, 178 

Mud Brook 143, 145 

Mud Cove 115, 116 

*' Lake .... 116, 117, 118 
" Pond .... 97, 105, 106 

" " Carry 106 

Mun-olammon-ungun . . . 145 

Munsungan Lake no, iii, 112, 113 

" Stream . . 112, 137 

Murphy's Farm . . . . 67, 98 

Musquacook Lake 114, 115, 116,117, 

123 

" Stream 115, 119, 120, 

123, 124, 126, 131 

Mystic Grotto 55 

Nahmakanta Lake ... 80, 81 
Nelhudus Stream . . .84, 85, 194 

Nesowadnehunk 79 

" Carry . . . 121 

" Dead-Water , 72, 

73, 195 

" Lake ... 69 

" Mts. . . 62, 68 

" Stream 70, 73, 79 

New Brunswick 127, 12S, 132, 133 

" " Railway . . 130 

Nickatow ... 79, 143, 144, i4S 

" Nigger " Brook and Rapids 126 

Norndgewock 171 

Norris lirook 9^,93 

North Anson . . . I7i-i73< '76 

" Brook 48, 49 

" Branch Penobscot 85, 90, 92, 

94.95 

" Chairback Pond ... 149 



204 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

North Twin Brook .... 109 

" Twin Dam and Lake 77, 78 

Northeast Carry 6ij62, 64, 82, 83 

Northwest Carry . 81, 82, 83, 194 

Norton Hill 162 

Norton's Farm 156 

Number in Party 2 

Old Canada Road 82,84,86,87,88 
" Man of the Cli£E .... 152 

Oldtown 39> 40 

Onaway Lake 164 

Ore Mt i4S> M9 

Otter Brook 114 

Otter Pond 178 

Outfit 3) 4 

Oxbow Plantation . . . 113, 114 

Pack-straps n 

Paddling 16 

Painter's Farm 113 

Pamedomcook Lake - . ' 77, 80 

Pamola 75 

Parlin Pond 179, 181 

Parson's Hotel 173 

Partridges 185 

Party 2 

Pataquongamis . . . 123,131,134 
Passamagamoc Falls .... 76 

Patten 113, "4. i39 

Patterson's . . 141, 142, 145, 168 

Peaked Mt 115, 117 

Pearl Pond 156 

Pebble Beach 52, 55 

Peirce Ponds 178 

Penobscot 41, 53, 63, 66, 67, 70, 78, 

79,83,88, 113, 143 

" Brook . . . 88,89,194 

" Lake .... 88 

" Pond 50 

Personal Luggage 7-13 

Peske-b^gat 66 

Pine Stream Falls .... 64, 65 
Pillsbury Island . . • 108, 109 

Piscataquis 40, 162 

Pleasant Lake . 114,115,116,120 

" Mt 116 

•• Pond 177 

" River .... 146, 148 

Pockwockamus Dead-Water . 76 

Falls .... 76 

Pohenagamook 127 

Poland Brook . . . 101, 102, 104 
" Pond .... 102, 103, 195 

Poling 17 

Polly wog Pond 81 

Pond Pitch .... 140,141,144 



PAGE 
Pongokwahemook . . 107, io8, 135 
Posture in Canoe .... 17, 18 

Portland 171 

Prairie ....... 146, 157 

Presque Isle 113, 114 

" '* Stream .... 114 

Profile 53 

Provisions 14,15,16 

Pugwash 151 

Putting-in Place . . . . 71, 72 

Quakish Lake 77 

Quebec 127, 132, 175 

Quicksands 31 

Ragmuff Stream 64 

Rainbow Lake 81 

Ramsay's Farm 124 

Rankin Rapids 127 

Rankin's Falls 176 

Rasles, Father 171 

Recipes 25-27 

Rice's Rapids 130 

Reed's Camp 168 

Ripogenus Carry . . , 71, 78, 195 

" Gorge . . . . 70, 144 

" Lake 68, 69, 70, 71, 144 

Riviere du Loup . . . 131, 175 

Roach Pond 48, 49, 50 

" River 48 

Robbin's Hill 175 

Robert Brook 94 

Rocky Rips ... 64, 65, 66, 143 
Rolling Dam Ledge .... 60 

Round Mt 117, 149 

" Pond 58, 100, 101, 102, 123, 
19s 

Rum Mt 41 

" Pond 155 

Russell Brook 108 

" Mt 40, 44 

« Pond 83 

" Stream 83 

Saddlerock Brook 150 

" Mt. 147> 148, 149, »57 

Salmon Brook 114 

Sampson Pond 167 

Sam's Pitch 58 

Sand Bar 51 

" " Island 51 

Sandy Bay 88, 175 

" Stream 73, 76, 168, 169, 177 

Savage's 128, 129 

" Island 128 

Sawdust Clearing . . . 160, 161 
Scapan Stream 114 



INDEX. 



205 



t09, 



164, 



59. 



PAGE 

55, 156 



57. 



• 157 

• ^Sl 
61, 164 

• 155 
58, 159 

141,145 
19, 136, 137 
82,83, 194 
. 82, 83 
. 82 
83, 85 
97. 123 
77, 78 
01, 103, 195 
50, 62 
. 168 
65, 166, 167 
59, 160, 161 
. . 41, 164 
5°, 151 

• 145 



45, 



Schoodic Lake . 
Schooner Island 
Scratch Rips 
Screw Auger Fall 
Sears's Clearing 
Season .... 
Sebaygook . . 
Sebec Corner . 

" Lake 157, 

" River . . 

" Village . 
Seboois River . 
Second Lake 
Seeboomook Falls 
" Island 

*' Meadows 

*' Stream 

Seven Islands . 
Shad Pond . . 
Shallow Lake . 
Shaw Farm . . 
Sherman Village 
Ship Pond 161, 

" " Stream 
Shirley ... 
Silver Lake . . 

" " House 
Skinning Game . 
Skowhegan . . 
Slaughter Pond 
Slugundy 
Smith Brook 
Smith's Farm 
Snake Island 
Snare Brook 
Socatean Falls 
" Point 
*' Pool 
" River 
Soldiers' Field Rips 
Solon . . . 
Somerset R. R 
Soper Brook 
Soubungan Mt. 
Sourdnahunk (see Nesowadnehunk). 
South Branch Penobscot 85, 86, 
89,90 
South Brook 48 

" Lagrange 40 

" Point 115 

" Sebec 157 

Spectacle Ponds 163 

Spencer Bay . . .46, 47, 48, 51 

" Brook 48, 49 

'* Mts. 44, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 66 

" Narrows 45 

" Pond 49, 194 



72, 174, 175 
70 
167 
109 



io8, 



108, 



47 
109 
61 
62 
61 
193 
. 141 
74, 175 
71, 172 
69, 108, 109 
. . . 62 



192, 



72, 



PAGB 

Spencer Rips .... 141, 181 
Spencer's Camp . . . 91,92,93 
Spider Lake 109,110,111,114,116 

Spring Brook 141 

Spruce Mt 147 

" " Ponds 147 

Square Lake 123 

Squatook Lake 132 

" Stream 132 

" Peak 132 

Squaw Brook 43, 44 

" Mt. . . 41, 43, 44, 46, 62 

*' Pond 43 

St. Croix Stream 114 

St. Francis River . . 127,128,131 
St John Pond . . . . 93,95.97 

" " River 97, 105, 113, 114,115, 
121, 123, 125, 126, 127, 128, 
129, 130, 131, 133, 135, 195 

St. Joseph 175 

Staceyville 168 

Stair Falls . . 139, 141, 144, i54 

Steamboats 45, 57 

Stimulation . . . . . 12,35-37 
Stony Brook Rapids .... 60 

Store 56 

Sufferers' Rock 141 

Sugar Island 46, 53 

" Loaf Mt 132 

Sun-stroke 34 

Suntabunt Mt 81 

Swan's Farm 84, 85 

Swift Brook 141, 145 

Swimming 30 

Table-Land 74 

Table-Rock 52 

Taking Cold 32-34 

Telegraph 46 

Telos Cut 144 

Telos Dam 144 

Telos Lake .... 107, 134, 13S 
Telosmis Lake .... 134. '44 
Temiscouata Lake . . 131, 132 
Ten-thousand Acre Pond . . 178 

Tent 6, 22, 23 

Third Lake 118 

Thissell Brook 136 

Road 166 

Thoroughfare Brook 107, 108, 109, 
195 

Three Brooks 181 

" Sisters .... 52, 53, 55 

Toban Bar 128 

Tobique River 130 

Tom Fletcher Brook .... 59 
Tomhegan Pond 178 



206 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Tomhegan River . , . 60,61,194 

Touladi Falls 132 

" Lake 132 

" River 132 

Toulbah Mts 104 

Tours 193, 197 

Traveller Mts. . . . 137, 139, 141 

Triple Mt 117 

Trout Brook .... 114, 138 
" " Farm . . 136, 138 

" " Mts. . . 134, 137 

Trout Pond 50 

Truesdell's Camp 93 

Turner House 174 

Twin Brook Rapids .... 126 

" Brooks 109 

'* Island 141 

Uem-sas-kek 122 

Umbazookskus Lake 105, 106, 195 

" Stream . . 97, 105 

Umcoleus Stream 114 

Umsaskis Lake . 122, 123, 131, 195 
Upper Dam South Br. Penobscot 89 

Ebeeme Pond .... 156 

Van Buren 128 

Vanceboro 113 

Wadleigh Brook . . . . 69, 103 

Pond 81 

Wassataquoik Stream 141, 142, 144, 

145, 168 

Wassa-tegw^-wick , . 142, 144 

Waterville 174 

Webster Brook .... 136, 141 



PAGE 

Webster Lake 107, 134, 135, 136, 138, 

144 

" Landing . . . 139, 144 

Welch's Mill 161 

West Branch Penobscot 64-66, 70, 
78, 79, 82,83, 144, 194 
" " Ponds . . .49, 155 

" " PleasantRiver 48, 145, 

146, 147, 151 
" " Touladi River . 133 

" Chairback Pond . . . 149 

" Cove 43, 46, 66 

" Ebeeme Pond .... 156 

" Green Mt 91 

" Outlet Stream ... 47, 57 

" Peak 75 

" Waterville . . . 171, 174 

Weymouth Point 195 

Whetstone Falls . . 142, 143, 14S 

White Brook .... 148, 151 

" Cap Mt. 41, 44. 46, 49> i47» 

148, 149, 151, 157 

Williams Stream 62 

Willimantic Linen Co. . . . 161 

Wilson Pond . . . .42, 43, 194 

" Stream . 158, 159, 161, 163 

Wilson's 46 

Hill Pond .... 178 
Winding Ledges . . . 128, 129 
Woboostook Stream .... 96 

Wongun Brook 156 

Wood 24, 25 

" Pond 60, 180 

Woodstock 106, 107, 113, 130, 134 
Woolastook 126 



APPENDIX. 



The information contained in the following pages has 
been obtained since the publication of the third edition, 
in 1882. 

CHESUNCOOK LAKE. 

Within the past few years the management of the 
Chesuncook House, at the head of the lake, has much 
improved. The little hotel now offers comfortable accom- 
modation for eight or ten persons, with good, plain, un- 
pretentious country fare, most of it the product of the 
adjoining farm. The view of Mt. Ktaadn from the hotel 
is fine, and, owing to its situation, this place is destined 
to become a rendezvous for fishermen and hunters, as it 
is nearer the centre of the game district than any other 
hotel in the region. At the store now kept in connection 
with the hotel can be had canned goods and many other 
articles for camp use. Mr. Hilton, the manager for the 
past seven years, has recently been succeeded by Mr. 
Ansel Smith, an old resident of the lake. 

RED BROOK. 

A good carry leaves Chesuncook Lake about one hun- 
dred rods north of the brook, and leads to the dam. 
Above the latter for half a mile navigation is good, then 
come falls and wading for a mile, above which dead-water 
extends for two miles. 



2o8 APPENDIX, 



DUCK POND AND MUD POND 

are accessible from Chesuncook Lake by good roads, that 
to the former being less than half a mile long, while that 
to Mud Pond runs from the mouth of the brook, on the 
right, a short mile to the dam. 

CHESUNCOOK DAM. 

The carry past the dam and falls may be shortened 
somewhat when the water in the stream is not low, by 
taking the path on the north side of the dam, and putting 
in below the lower fall. 

CARIBOU LAKE. 

At high water a canoe can pass through the " thorough- 
fare " from Chesuncook to Caribou Lake without difficulty, 
but at other times some wading is necessary during the 
last three-quarters of a mile. The outlet of Caribou Lake 
is scarcely twenty feet wide. Here and near its southern 
end the lake is full of sunken rocks. On entering the 
lake one sees several pretty islands directly opposite. 
Behind them rises a high hard-wood ridge, which separates 
this body of water from Ragged Lake. Ragged Brook is 
rocky and shallow for some distance above its mouth. 
A team to haul canoes into Ragged Lake can be hired at 
the Grant Farm. 

KELLY POND. 

From the mouth of Caribou Brook one can paddle up 
stream half a mile to a landing on the right. From here 
a good road runs into the ChesuncookT^oach Pond road, 
which, turning to the left, one follows to where it crosses 
the stream, two hundred rods above the landing. This 



APPENDIX. 209 

part of the route may be somewhat shortened by leaving 
the main road about sixty rods above the landing, and 
following a path that diverges on the left, either to the 
main road again, or only for about forty rods. F'rom this 
latter point a loaded canoe can generally be taken up the 
stream to where the road crosses it, a quarter of a mile. 
From the crossing a good path leads along the east side, 
a quarter of a mile, to the third or lowest dam.* From 
just above the dam the water is dead for about a mile. 
At the end of three-quarters of a mile, where the brook 
makes a sharp turn to the right, at the upper end of an 
open bog on the left, begins the carry, which runs at first 
through an alder swamp, but soon reaches high and dry 
ground. It passes an old clearing at the second dam, 
and continues to the first or upper dam, two hundred and 
seventy rods. From this point a spotted line runs up the 
opposite or left bank of the stream, one hundred and 
eighty rods, to Kelly Pond, but loaded canoes can gene- 
rally run up into the pond without difficulty. Kelly Pond 
is nearly half a mile long, and not quite as broad. The 
best camp ground is on the east side, but fire-wood is 
plenty nowhere except at the southwest corner of the 
pond. 

BEAN BROOK. 

From a small cove on the east side of Kelly Pond a 
good carry runs eighty rods, to Bean Pond, a narrow 
body of water, three eighths of a mile long. The latter 
lies north of a spruce-covered mountain that is visible 
from Kelly Pond. From the lower end of this little pond 
Spencer Mountain can easily be seen in clear weather. 
From the right of the outlet a good carry leads one hun- 
dred rods down to Bean Bog, through which dead-water 
extends for about three-quarters of a mile to a dam. 
From this point down to within at least a mile of Nah- 
* Sluice-dam, not rolling-dam. 



2IO APPENDIX, 

makanta Lake, about three miles, navigation of the brook 
is entirely out of the question. Half a mile down the 
right bank of the stream one may find a logging road 
used by Murphy in 1882, which, after a mile, crosses to 
the other side of the stream near the town line, runs past 
Murphy's old camp, and after crossing and recrossing 
the brook again finally, forty rods below the junction with 
Pollywog Brook, strikes across through an old clearing 
to Rainbow Stream, one hundred and thirty rods, and 
after two hundred and ten rods more comes out on 
Nahmakanta Lake just west of the mouth of Rainbow 
Stream. 

From the dam at the foot of Bean Bog, on the right, 
a carry runs down the brook a few rods, crosses it at a 
pool, and runs southeasterly nearly to two little ponds, 
and then northeasterly up Murphy Brook to lower 
Murphy Pond, a mile and a half. Across the pond a 
quarter of a mile, and up the brook a mile or more, and 
one is within forty rods of the upper Murphy Pond. A 
high and steep ridge separates Murphy Brook from 
Rainbow Stream. From the top of this ridge, just above 
the lower pond, a spotted line runs to the foot of a small 
double pond on Rainbow Stream just below the lake, 
passing a second, smaller pond. The best way to reach 
this line would be by taking a southeast course from 
upper Murphy Pond. Possibly a better way to reach 
Rainbow Lake from this side would be from the head of 
upper Murphy Pond over the northern spur of the ridge, 
which does not seem to be very steep. 

RAINBOW LAKE 

is about five miles long and a mile wide. It lies in a 
granite basin, and its water is so clear that one can see 
bottom at fifteen feet. It teems with small trout which 
can be caught only at nightfall or early in the morning. 



APPENDIX. 2 1 1 

No grassy inlets vary the monotony of its shores, or 
afford a feeding ground to deer and moose. Its chie^ 
charms are its seclusion and the fine view of Mt. Ktaadn 
from the outlet. The lake is best reached from Ripo- 
genus, from the lower end of which a good road, hardly 
a mile long, runs southwesterly over a ridge to Chesun- 
cook Pond. This road leaves the carry that runs down 
the West Branch of the Penobscot about twenty rods 
from the shore of the lake. 

CHESUNCOOK POND 

is a shallow, irregularly shaped body of water, full of 
islands and rocks, and apparently void of trout. From a 
cove on its south side a carry runs one and a half miles 
to the northwest arm of Rainbow Lake. The carry at 
first runs through a cedar swamp, and was in 1888 well 
corduroyed. After leaving the low land, the carry is dry 
and excellent. Chesuncook Pond is about thirty feet 
higher than Rainbow Lake, and a hundred and twenty 
feet above Ripogenus Lake. 



APPENDIX, 1893. 



The following notes are founded on observations made 
and information gathered since the publication of the 
fourth edition, in 1889: — 

HOLER, JACKMAN, AND BALD MT. 

The International Railroad of Maine has made easily 
accessible a large number of ponds along the course of 
Moose River. Holeb Pond and the upper parts of Moose 
River, as far as the latter is navigable, are within imme- 
diate reach from Holeb Station. An island in Holeb Pond 
was, in 1890, the site of a permanent camp for sportsmen. 
From Jackman and Moose River Village, which offer fair 
hotel accommodation, one can go by team to Heald Pond 
under the shadow of Bald Mt., to the camps of Alick 
Dutelly. From this point a number of ponds are acces- 
sible, and canoes can be taken across to the head of 
Alder I5rook, and thence into the West Branch of the 
Penobscot. 

The height of Bald Mt. above the river at Moose River 
Bridge (Jackman), as determined by the writer with an 
aneroid barometer, is 2,302 feet. If we agree with Wells,* 
that Wood Pond and Long Pond are seventy-one feet 
above Moosehead Lake (too little, if anything), and con- 
sider the latter as 995 feet above sca-levcl, that makes 



* Water-power of Maine, p. 88. 



APPENDIX. 213 

Bald Mt. 3,368 feet high, thus outranking all the Moose- 
head peaks except White Cap. 

NORTH BRANCH PENOBSCOT. 

It is understood that a team to haul parties from the 
North Branch to St. John Pond can be hired at Moore's 
clearing. See page 92. 

LOON STREAM. 

From Caucomgomoc Lake, Loon Stream is dead for 
three-quarters of a mile ; then, for a mile and a half, it is 
rocky and shallow, but, except in dry seasons, a lightly 
laden canoe may be dragged and poled up or down the 
latter part in less than two hours. A good road runs 
along the south side of the stream, opposite the rapids 
and shallows. From the foot of the upper dead-water to 
the mouth of Big Scott Brook is half a mile ; thence three- 
eighths of a mile to the carry, on the left, or north, bank. 
The upper part of this dead-water is rocky. 

BIG SCOTT BROOK 

is navigable for three-fourths of a mile. Above that, for 
perhaps a mile, the brook is shallow ; beyond this part an 
alder-ground extends several miles, above an old dam. 
The carry from Loon Stream into 

LOON LAKE 

is sixty rods long, and good. From the mouth of Loon 
Stream one can ordinarily take a loaded canoe to Loon 
Lake in three hours. Of Loon Lake itself not much is to 
be added, except that it contains much vegetable growth, 
and its water is, therefore, not very palatable. The writer 



214 APPENDIX. 

knows of no good camp-grounds to recommend. There 
is one that is indifferent, opposite the mouth of the inflow- 
ing, or 

LITTLE LOON STREAM. 

This brook is dead for half a mile or more from its 
mouth. It then becomes very narrow and rocky for 
another mile, to a point where a brook joins it from the 
north. Formerly a dam on this brook, three-eighths of a 
mile above, formed a small pond, but the dam is now 
rotten, and Nature has resumed her sway. Nothing but 
a bog remains. Above the junction Loon Stream soon 
widens out into a bog, and, at the end of another mile, 
into a pond. Both this stream and Withey Brook have 
more or less dead-water and bog above here. 

HURD POND, 

the lower of the two ponds of that name, is not more than 
thirty rods from Loon Lake, over a good carry. The 
pond is quite pretty and must contain trout. A long, 
high ridge lies north of it, less than two miles away. 
The inlet from the upper pond enters the lower pond on 
the east side. See map opposite page loo. 

A150L. AND KTAADN TONDS 

maybe reached in two ways; either by going up Abol. 
Stream to the pond of that name and carrying across into 
Ktaadn Pond (known as Togue Ponds, which are two 
ponds with a narrow neck of land between them), — or by 
carrying into the latter pond from Compass Pond, which 
is reached directly from the river. The ascent of Abol. 
Stream, although slow, is not difficult. From Ktaadn 
Pond a canoe can be taken down Sandy Stream into 
Milinokett Lake. 



APPENDIX. 2I.-5 

RIVER AND COMPASS PONDS 

are sometimes called Mud Ponds. The lower of the two 
is connected with Pockwockamus Dead-Water by a stream 
nearly half a mile long, and this pond with the upper one 
by a crooked and shallow stream possibly a mile long. 
The brook above the upper pond is, at Jiigh water, navi- 
gable for about two miles, but ordinarily only for a short 
distance. From this brook a carry leads over to Ktaadn 
Pond. 

HALE FOND (lower w. br. penobscot) 

In Pockwockamus Dead-Water, half a mile below the 
mouth of River Pond Stream, is the head of a large 
island. On the west side of the latter, a quarter of a 
mile from its head, is the mouth of a small brook that 
flows out of Hale Pond. A canoe can ascend the brook 
for about forty rods, and there in a small meadow will be 
found a tote-road that leads along the south side of the 
brook to the lower end of the pond, about ninety rods 
above. The pond is half a mile long, and boggy at its 
upper end. The road after having crossed the pond, 
runs up the north side of the inflowing brook, soon crosses 
it, and continues in a westerly by southerly direction to 
the lower end of the upper Hurd Pond, which it enters at 
a small cove north of the outlet, a mile and a quarter 
from Hale Pond 



HURD PONDS (lower w, i?r. PENonscox). 

At the northwest elbow of Katcpskonegan Dead Water, 
in the very corner, is the lower Hurd Pond. A narrow 
point nearly separates the two bodies. The pond is 
three-eighths of a mile long, grassy and covered with lily- 
pads. A clear brook flows into its upper end, probably 
navigable for half a mile. A road runs up the south side 



2l6 APPENDIX. 

of the brook three-quarters of a mile to the upper pond, 
which is nearly a mile and a half long and a mile wide. 
On three sides the latter is surrounded by ridges ; its 
shores are strewn with bowlders. 
The lowest of the series of 

KATEPSKONEGAN PONDS 

empties into the dead-water of that name, a short distance 
below Hurd Pond, through a stream about half a mile 
long. This pond is two miles or more long, and is sur- 
rounded by high ridges. Its water is very clear. 

The brook from the second pond is navigable for only 
a few rods. A road runs up its south side, about a mile, 
to the pond. The lower pond is celebrated for its togue 
and w^hite fish. 

NEESOWADNEHUNK LAKE. 

The easiest way to reach this place is by way of Patten 
and Trout Brook farm. From the latter point a team 
can haul canoes and outfit through to the lake, twenty 
miles, in a day and a half, or less. The lake is shallow, 
its water clear, and free from vegetable growth ; the imme- 
diate shores are flat, and in general rocky. A fine view is 
had from the north shore and from the upper end of the 
lake, and among the mountains Double Top (Ootop, or 
Outop) witli its pyramidal form is one of the most strik- 
ing. The northern part, or table-land, of Ktaadn is also 
very conspicuous. 

In 1892 the writer found trout abundant in the lake, 
but saw none that would weigh over a pound, while, 
beside those of deer, the signs of game were not abun- 
dant. Below the lake proper, the outflowing stream 
bulges out into a good sized pool, narrowing as it ap- 
proaches the dam, three-fourths of a mile down. Vegeta- 
tion on the banks here has been largely destroyed by fire 
and by high water. 



APPEiVDIX. 217 

From the lake to the mouth of Neesowadnehunk Stream 
is about seventeen miles : five and a half miles to Smooth 
Ledge Falls (granite), one and a half miles more to " Slide " 
Dam opposite Double Top, three and a half miles to the 
mouth of Slaughter Pond Stream, about three and a half 
miles more to the third, or lowest dam, and three miles 
more to the mouth. The upper parts of the road, in 
1892, were very good. Immediately above the " Slide " 
dam the water is dead for about half a mile. The "slide," 
east of the dam, appears on cursory examination to be the 
bed of a brook, worn down through a thin layer of drift 
into the bedrock granite. From the lake to " Slide " 
dam a loaded canoe could probably, at high water, be 
taken down the stream without much carrying, except 
around Smooth Ledge Falls, — the difference in altitude 
being about a hundred and seventy-five feet. Below 
" Slide " dam there are a few rough places, but as far as 
the mouth of Slaughter Pond Stream, the limit of the 
writer's explorations, and probably as far as the third, or 
lowest dam, navigation would probably not be irksome, — 
with a good pitch of water. The total fall from the lake 
to Slaughter Pond Stream is about three hundred feet. 
Below the third dam for three miles the stream is said to 
be very rough and the road wet and steep. 

The intervale immediately above and below the "Slide " 
dam, largely of hard-wood growth, is very pretty, and is 
surrounded by mountains easy of ascent. Double Top 
seems to be most accessible from the north. In 1892 there 
was an old logging-camp just below Smooth Ledge Falls 
and another half a mile above Slaughter Pond Stream. 

EAST IJRANCII PENOBSCOT. 

In connection with the discussion on page 142 it is an 
interesting fact that Grecnleaf, in a list of Indian names 
published in 1824, applies the name " Wassataquoik " to 
the great "East Branch." 



. TOURISTS . 
Going down the Penobscot, AUegash, or St. John Rivers, 



OR TO ANY OF THE 



pleasure (Krountis of Nord}castern JSaine, 

will find good hotel accommodation 
at either end of the 

NORTHEAST CARRY. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



During the Summer Season several steamers touch at 
the Carry daily. Within gunshot of the Penobscot House 
flows the west branch of the Penobscot, with its miles of canoe- 
able waters, and near at hand are the beauties of 

LOBSTER LAKE. 
United States Post-Office at the Carry. 

CANOES HAULED ' F ROMPTLY ACROSS THE CARRY; 
ALSO TO RUSSELL POND. 



FREE CARRIAGE FOR ALL GUESTS OF EITHER HOUSE. 



GEORGE C LUCE . . Proprietor, 

WINNEGARNOCK AND PENOBSCOT HOUSES. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



II III III I 1 ; ||ii 




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